|
|
|
|
dirtineye
Jan 6, 2004, 4:21 PM
Post #26 of 29
(3061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
|
NC granite likes to rot LOL. Since nobody mentioned it, when you get to a potential placement, tap it, bang it with your palm, try to wiggle it, and see what happens. (This works for just plain loose or rotted loose stuff) A rotten or otherwise loose flake will sound hollow usually, or it will flex. Solid rock sounds and feels, uh, solid hahah, but loose or rotten stuff has a very noticable different sound and may even vibrate if it is big enough. Very large loose flakes can sound like a drum.
I bet you have seen those little 1/4 to 1/2 inch edges that have curved sides, that is, they are not straight like a sandstone edge usually is, but their ends turn up, making an oval shape. I'll also bet youv'e seen some that have huge hollow areas under them, where the granite that makes up this little edge is like a 3/8 inch thick skin over the solid rock. You might have even pulled some of this stuff off as it can be very brittle. The rotten edges and the solid ones look the same, and if you don't tap around em, well... you know...
Tapping and checking holds and placements is a good practice. You might think that on high traffic routes all the loose stuff would be gone, but it is not so. If you venture onto seldom climbed or unclimbed rock, testing holds and placements is essential.
Don't you love your tri-cams?
Congratulations on a good fall. If you are interested in learning how to fall safely, check out Arno's book and web site. Arno put up the really hard routes on the headwall at Whitesides, among other things, and he regulary teaches climbers how to deal with falls.
By the way, your position in that fall looks good! Nice pic to have.
|
|
|
|
|
cjstudent
Jan 6, 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #27 of 29
(3061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 21, 2003
Posts: 369
|
Tedc - i had a bomber nut placed maybe 6-7" below my tri-cam so if the tri-cam busted then that nut would have still got me before i hit the ground. And there was another nut below that but i probably would have decked or at least stretched into the ground if that piece was catching me. I didn't have alot of places to put pro on that route so when i found spots i placed it, even if it was side by side. But yes i should have placed a cam in that pod, or maybe my pink tri-cam in the crack above it. I was just making my moves and went past that! (although when i lead this route again, which i plan to, i won't make that mistake)
Cracklover - as far as how i placed the gear behind that flake. I was standing below it so I was reaching straight up to put the gear in. I placed the cam in about the flatest and deepest area behind the flake and then to the left of that was a small bottleneck area where i placed a small nut. And there are two red slings actually in that pic, its just they are so close you can't distinguish them.
Does anyone equalize their close placements on one sling or just usually place two like i did? I was at a good stance so i could have equalized them. My guess is, the rock was brittle and chipped away when pressure was put on the cam which allowed it to move to the flared section behind the flake and ultimatly just pulled out, and where the nut was it appears it was pulled to down to the right instead of straight down and it busted some rock loose.
And yea i thought that flake was big enough, it is attached really well to the rock but its Crowders so who knows. Crowders is the only place where I usually grab a loose hold every time i climb. And, yes I love those tri-cams! Doubling up on the pink and red one now!
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Jan 7, 2004, 12:11 AM
Post #28 of 29
(3061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
You officially have a favorite piece of gear for the rest of your life!
|
|
|
|
|
hawgdrver
Jan 7, 2004, 1:34 AM
Post #29 of 29
(3061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 17, 2003
Posts: 214
|
In reply to: remember your gear feels twice that much force.
huh?
|
|
|
|
|
|
