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lagart
Jan 26, 2004, 12:22 AM
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Hi there, I’ve been climbing for some years now, but during the past few months I’ve been doing a lot of indoor bouldering, as a way of training. I’ve always used a lot of chalk (I could even say I’m chalk-o-holic), but lately I’ve noticed that after some hours of bouldering I can’t grip any hold, even though my forearms are not wasted. But my finger’s skin is pretty damaged. I’m beginning to think that too much chalk is drying the skin and speeding the process of wasting the skin (my mates don’t use as much chalk as I do, and they don’t seem to have this problem). What do you think? Has this ever happened to you? :?
C ya, good climbs there! 8)
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j_ung
Jan 26, 2004, 1:18 AM
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I think the problem mostly has to do with all the plastic you're pulling lately. That stuff can do its damage if you're not careful, and your tips are just the beginning. Try a moisturizer of some sort after you climb. Be careful; your tendons may be next!
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scubasnyder
Jan 26, 2004, 1:39 AM
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could be it, i know my hands are dry just because its winter, but if you use lotion then your hands are soft and get torn apart even faster its really sucks.
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rokshoxbkr19
Jan 26, 2004, 1:39 AM
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I suggest you stop being a wuss and keep pulling down. No, for real, you probably do just have to get used to pulling on plastic so much. One of the problems with indoor climbing is you do a lot more climbing in a much shorter time than outdoors because of proximaty, so you don't rest between climbs or problems as much. I would take frequent 15-30 minute breaks during your workout and I bet you would see a lot of difference. Good luck
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alderak
Jan 26, 2004, 2:37 AM
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yeah, I don't like ,lotion because most of it smells funny :shock:
heh... and it makes your hands softer...
just be sure to wash your hands after you are all done... if ya leave the chalk on your going to get cracks... not fun.
keep climbing and your calluses will build up
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moeman
Jan 26, 2004, 3:37 AM
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Climb-On bar
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climbingurlie
Jan 26, 2004, 4:18 AM
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It's probably just the plastic. Not being able to get outdoors very often, I'm stuck inside (which is fine with me; I love my gym) I'm also what you might call a chalk-a-holic. (Maybe we could start a 'chalk-a-holics anonymous' :P ) When I first started in the gym, it took about 2 hours of climbing to wear my hands down. Now, if my hands are in good calloused shape, I can climb for about 5 hours and then my hands will start hurting like crazy. After you start getting used to the indoor holds, your hands won't hurt so badly. Just wash them off after climbing and occasionaly use lotion so they don't get too dried out.
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andyw
Jan 26, 2004, 1:20 PM
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i think we are all forgeting that he does use alot of CHALK, it may be that yes chalk is good butttt it may be that excess chalk is rubbing inbetween the chalk on your hands and the holds, even if it was real rock im sure the same thing would happen, so the excess chalk becomes like sand paper rubing and sliping all over the place and hence wearing down your hands. I might suggest trying not to use as much chalk.
Remember the chalk is to stop sliping and to keep the holds dry, dont over do it coz that excess chalk could do more damage than you think!!!
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lagart
Jan 26, 2004, 2:23 PM
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In reply to: i think we are all forgeting that he does use alot of CHALK, it may be that yes chalk is good butttt it may be that excess chalk is rubbing inbetween the chalk on your hands and the holds, even if it was real rock im sure the same thing would happen, so the excess chalk becomes like sand paper rubing and sliping all over the place and hence wearing down your hands. I might suggest trying not to use as much chalk. Remember the chalk is to stop sliping and to keep the holds dry, dont over do it coz that excess chalk could do more damage than you think!!!
I appreciate all the advices, though I think andy’s got a point here. I think chalk is the problem. So, summing up, use less chalk, wash it off after climbing, don’t use lotions, and keep climbing till skin gets used to it.
Sounds like a good plan to me! 8)
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dr.robert
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Jan 26, 2004, 2:42 PM
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I'm also having a chalk related hand problem. The skin on my middle fingers right at the edge of the top of my fingernails have massive gaping slits in them. And anytime i start to climb on pretty much the first move i go for i end up hitting the cut and it starts to leak (bleed). So the only solution im left w/ is to shove it into my chalk ball to stop the bleeding, which does work but in turn just makes things worse.
I've had these cuts not for a solid month and a half and im not developing one on my thumb. I don't know what to do to get rid of them other than stop climbing for a while which absolutely is NOT an option for me.
any advice?
also i put moisturizer on them every day after i climb.
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wildduck
Jan 26, 2004, 2:59 PM
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ok... I've been climbing for awhile... but i've never figured out why the skin on my fingers and hands are like breaking....
This is the effect of the chalk isn't it ? I don't put any lotions on...
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lagart
Jan 26, 2004, 3:05 PM
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In reply to: I'm also having a chalk related hand problem. The skin on my middle fingers right at the edge of the top of my fingernails have massive gaping slits in them. And anytime i start to climb on pretty much the first move i go for i end up hitting the cut and it starts to leak (bleed). So the only solution im left w/ is to shove it into my chalk ball to stop the bleeding, which does work but in turn just makes things worse. I've had these cuts not for a solid month and a half and im not developing one on my thumb. I don't know what to do to get rid of them other than stop climbing for a while which absolutely is NOT an option for me. any advice? also i put moisturizer on them every day after i climb.
I don't quite get the position of the cut, but have you tried some sort of tapeing before climbing? I once got a splinter into my fingernail during a competition. It bleed badly, but I had to keep climbing, so I taped all the tip of the finger, nail included. It stopped the bleeding, but it also affected the grip of that finger.
Ultimately, I’m sorry to tell you, it would be a good idea to take a week off (in any case, it is necessary to rest from training from time to time. Even the pro do that (I think one month per year of training ¿?).
Anyway, it seems that the “chalk-a-holic” group could be a good idea…
One more fact to increase the general confusion, one of my gym mates’ uses almost no chalk at all, and he climbs like a spider! (maybe it’s enough with all the chalk I leave on the holds…..) :?
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thegimp
Jan 26, 2004, 3:29 PM
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I've always thought that when your hands are already dry and you put more chalk on, it actually creates more chance to slip when you boulder. Too much moisture is bad, not enough is bad, you must be in the middle. I guess science would say it has something to do with polarity of the moisture...just a thought.
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rope_burn
Jan 26, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Just throw some take over the blisters and keep climbing. Whatever doesn't kill you makes you tougher.
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sidewaysmaster
Jan 26, 2004, 7:19 PM
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Lotion does NOT make your hands soft. Jeez, what a load. Don't use lotion before climbing, but it works great to keep your hands from cracking if you use some after washing your chalk off. Rub some into your cuticles too to keep them from getting screwed up. And there are many non oily, non scented hand creams.
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lokionnitrox
Mar 9, 2004, 1:57 AM
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try burt's bee's..... It's not really a lotion, and the odor isn't too afemminate. I've been having a weird sor of blistering in my finger tips lately which has led to some nasty raw pads and some wicked flappers after my first trip outside this spring.
I'm with you though, not climbing isn't an option. Use less chalk, rest longer between sets, and get the 'excess' off of your hands before you lift off.
best of luck, and if anybody has any ideas on speeding up the healing let me know. I had to take a couple of days off to get over the cracking and bleeding on my tips
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jgill
Mar 9, 2004, 5:14 AM
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After climbing, wash the chalk off and put a little vaseline on your hands. I've been using chalk longer than any other climber (about 50 years), and I've never had a problem. My hands look fine now. 8)
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mach_y
Mar 18, 2004, 4:33 AM
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best bet is to stop climbing until those cracks in your fingers heal. If not climbing isn't an option, use crazyglue in the cracks before you climb.
FYI, crazyglue was originally made for heart surgery patients, and for use in closing wounds in the field (military) environment. Perfectly harmless, but it will hold your skin together :)
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crankenstein
Mar 18, 2004, 5:32 AM
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Alright, here's the scoop. I consider myself somewhat of an authority on hand/finger callouses and the proper care. I have suffered rips, tears, spits and every other kind of hand and finger malady over the last 25 years from gymnastics and climbing. Chalk is not the cause of the problem, but it can dry the skin and cause it to become brittle and suspectible to damage. Use chalk as you like, but be aware that the after climbing care is essential to good solid callouse buildup which does protect your fingers and helps to prolong your crimping.
First, picture a piece of dryed out leather. It cracks and tears easily. Now picture a nice smooth moist piece of leather and how pliable it is. Your hands are the same.
First, be sure to wash them thouroughly. After they dry, use a piece of sandpaper or an emory board and sand them smooth. Clip any flaps or areas thet become rough like velcro. Then, after making sure that they are smooth (don't sand too much because you want the callouse) be sure to moisturize them a lot!
As for splits, the best remedy is to glue them with Crazy glue (non toxic) and sand them smooth before moisturizing. They will heal faster and they won't keep splitting and being painful.
Keep in mind that you want the callouse to grow inward not outward, so that your thick dry pads don't become tomorrows flapper.
Good luck and keep pulling hard!
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catbiter
Mar 18, 2004, 5:44 AM
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I don't think the poster is talking about after climbing problems. When I climb at a gym, I get flappers out the ass. Yes, I know it comes from climbing indoors in short bursts, but I clean the holds more than I climb. The friction on plastic is so harsh compared to outdoors. (where I live anyways) Just bring tape and put some where you need to so you don't puss everywhere.
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fckpolicebrutality
Mar 19, 2004, 3:59 AM
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no...i wish people on this forum would get over this shit...chalk=good...quit being a bunch of fucking pansy naturalists...
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rngrchad
Mar 19, 2004, 4:38 AM
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Lighten up. Try using constructive critisicm rather than being so lazy as to resort to the use of swear words. Swearing is for those who are too lazy and dumb to think of the proper grammatical words in their place.
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tyify
May 13, 2004, 7:59 AM
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Just deal with it is my suggestion...and remember kids...Chalk soaks up blood really well! :wink:
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simianboy
May 13, 2004, 12:05 PM
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Bouldering on plastic allows you to do some big fast moves on overhangs using big juggy holds. This really hurts the skin, and if you do routes with lots of jugs, you will tend to hang from your arms a lot, and rub the upper part of your palms raw.
If you add some variety to your climbing, or at least to the way you hang on to the big holds, it should help.
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realization_83
May 13, 2004, 12:15 PM
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the way the girp a hold at the gym can make a difference as well, if you open hand grip like you should be it wears your skin out faster but saves your tendons. crimping puts more stress on your tendons, but your skin will always grow back, tendons are harder to repair.
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