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far_east_climber
Jan 22, 2004, 5:31 AM
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Could someone please explain precisely what rope soloing is? It's not just leading by yourself with a self-belay device right? Or does it mean the climber just has a large amount of slack rope connected to an anchor point just in case he falls... anyway, please explain
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brianthew
Jan 22, 2004, 5:33 AM
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It's climbing by yourself (hence "solo") but with a rope to catch you (hence "rope"), as opposed to climbing by yourself without a rope (free soloing). There are many ways to rope solo, and you can even do it rather safely on single pitch climbs that can be top-roped.
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far_east_climber
Jan 22, 2004, 5:36 AM
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what would be one of the ways? tie rope into anchor points, tie in at bottom of route and then just climb up?
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the_pirate
Jan 22, 2004, 5:39 AM
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you will need a solo belay device to rope solo. seeing as you need to ask about it, you should find a 3-D human to demonstrate the workings to you.
i'm too tired to go into a detailed explanation right now.
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brianthew
Jan 22, 2004, 5:42 AM
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Yeah, you have to see a method yourself to learn it, it's not something you should be taught over the net. It's not too hard though, once you get the hang of it. If you've a gym nearby, ask a staff member there; I rope solo all the time when I set routes at the gym I work at. All you need is a top-rope and a grigri; although this isn't the optimal method as you have to be pulling slack yourself with one hand after every move or two.
But yeah, find someone to show you in person.
There also exist devices (like pirate alluded to) that allow you solo on lead, or small ascending devices that allow you to auto-belay up a fixed line. Everybody seems to have a different method, but they must be learned very carefully.
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robmcc
Jan 22, 2004, 4:57 PM
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In reply to: There also exist devices (like pirate alluded to) that allow you solo on lead, or small ascending devices that allow you to auto-belay up a fixed line. Everybody seems to have a different method, but they must be learned very carefully.
True, but luckily it's pretty easy to figure out if you're doing it right. Fall. If you don't live to do it again, you were doing it wrong. In fairness, if you live you still might be doing it wrong and just got lucky. This test has a nontrivial false positive rate, so don't get overconfident just because you aren't dead.
Rob
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craggincragin
Jan 22, 2004, 5:21 PM
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In reply to: you will need a solo belay device to rope solo. seeing as you need to ask about it, you should find a 3-D human to demonstrate the workings to you. i'm too tired to go into a detailed explanation right now.
You can also use simple clove hitches which are bomber, minus the price tag.
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cjstudent
Feb 3, 2004, 1:08 AM
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Is there some way to rope-solo without a solo device? I only ask this because I was reading about rescuing the leader (http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/LeaderRescue.htm) and it mentioned roped solo up to the stuck leader. But generally "self-rescue equipment" wouldn't include a solo device would it, so what would you do then?
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skiclimb
Feb 3, 2004, 3:39 AM
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In reply to: True, but luckily it's pretty easy to figure out if you're doing it right. Fall. If you don't live to do it again, you were doing it wrong. In fairness, if you live you still might be doing it wrong and just got lucky. This test has a nontrivial false positive rate, so don't get overconfident just because you aren't dead. Rob
LMFAO!!!
How true that is of so many things I have seen.
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addrock
Feb 3, 2004, 7:23 PM
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in rescue situation u could always just tie a prusik to the line, them climb on. you would still have to pull down on the slack, but remarkably reliable knot.
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coldclimb
Feb 3, 2004, 7:28 PM
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There's a lot of good information oout there on the subject,and this is not the place to find it. ;)
But yes, if there is a fixed rope, you can climb and belay with a prussik. I'd recommend getting a book and reading up about all this stuff before you ever try it out. :)
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hroldan
Feb 3, 2004, 8:24 PM
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If you need to ask you shouldn't do it... just kidding...
i hate when people trow that line!!!!! :evil:
I have climbed that way and i found that is kinda stressfull, i mean, you will have to climb and drag the rope by yourself. The good thing is that you'll get use to certain level of stress...
I have used the Garda Knot but be careful because if you do it wrong, you will fall and nothing will stop you. Otherwise, is a good knot. you'll need two binners (militar), non locking, set the rope the way the link below says (is hard explain it online) try it SEVERAL times before going for your route to know for sure what you are doing. The knot will let you drag the rope in one direction and will lock the system if you fall...
http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Ascender/SemiMechPages/CarabKnotD2.html
Other links:
http://www.immortal.net.au/climbing/resources/training/self_belay.html#devices
http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/advanced.htm#leadsolo
http://ulrichprinz.com/alpin/equipment/selfmade/#grigri
http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/SelfBelayPages/SelfBelay627.html
I tried to lead but that's too hard.
good luck
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addrock
Feb 3, 2004, 9:06 PM
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just giving you the tip for emergency situation. at no time would i rely on just a prusik to save my life. grigri's are good. silent partners are better(but never used one). i would ask or watch somone w/ exp. i just tie the prusik for back up safety. ya dig
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ricardol
Feb 3, 2004, 9:11 PM
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In reply to: There's a lot of good information oout there on the subject,and this is not the place to find it. ;) But yes, if there is a fixed rope, you can climb and belay with a prussik. I'd recommend getting a book and reading up about all this stuff before you ever try it out. :)
I disagree ed .. rc.com has plenty of expereinced climbers who have roped solo .. and could explain the systems to this fella ..
.. i think that people will throw a "dont ask here" answer if the question is vage , or reeks of inexperience .. (nobody wants to be responsible for killing someone who just went out and tried something without thinking it thorugh) ..
to the original poster: can you describe the scenario that you have questions about? .. is it roped solo aiding? -- or rope solo climbing (free climbing)? -- is it toprope solo? -- or lead solo? .. or do you want to know how to solo up to rescue a hurt leader?
-- ricardo
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herm
Feb 3, 2004, 11:43 PM
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Clove Hitches
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cjstudent
Feb 3, 2004, 11:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: There's a lot of good information oout there on the subject,and this is not the place to find it. ;) But yes, if there is a fixed rope, you can climb and belay with a prussik. I'd recommend getting a book and reading up about all this stuff before you ever try it out. :) I disagree ed .. rc.com has plenty of expereinced climbers who have roped solo .. and could explain the systems to this fella .. .. i think that people will throw a "dont ask here" answer if the question is vage , or reeks of inexperience .. (nobody wants to be responsible for killing someone who just went out and tried something without thinking it thorugh) .. to the original poster: can you describe the scenario that you have questions about? .. is it roped solo aiding? -- or rope solo climbing (free climbing)? -- is it toprope solo? -- or lead solo? .. or do you want to know how to solo up to rescue a hurt leader? -- ricardo
I am not the original poster but here is the scenario that i was wondering about. I am belaying a leader. He is past teh point where i can lower him down and he takes a whipper and is injured. He is hanging there, there is no ledge that i can lower him to. I know how to escape the belay but my question is...how do i get to him. I wouldn't want to climb and use a prusik on the line because my leader is just hanging off one piece and i am not sure how strong that is at the moment so i wouldn't want to add any stress to it. If I fell, jugging up on that line it could cause the piece to blow. So I am standing on teh ground. I have with me general climbing stuff, biners, webbing, cord, and an extra rope. How can I rope solo up to him without specific gear such as the silent partner. That is my question. And yea i don't need any "you shouldn't do it if you have to ask" responses because hey this is emergency here...and i am going to practice this stuff in a controlled setting this weekend (where i can clip into bolts and stuff and use extra gear to make me safe as i learn the ropes)
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timpanogos
Feb 4, 2004, 12:11 AM
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cj,
the self rescue books would have you jug the lead line - scary stuff yes.
but you don't likely have any other choice (unless you have two lead ropes with you).
If you have a spare lead line - then you could estimate the distance to the pieces that your leader already placed (as you don't likely have any pro on you).
Tie one end of the extra rope to your anchor, now tie loops, long enought to get you to span the pro, with a clove hitch on a locker on your belay loop - climb away, clip and drop cloves as you go.
waaa hoooo
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dirtineye
Feb 4, 2004, 12:28 AM
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In reply to: I am not the original poster but here is the scenario that i was wondering about. I am belaying a leader. He is past teh point where i can lower him down and he takes a whipper and is injured. He is hanging there, there is no ledge that i can lower him to. I know how to escape the belay but my question is...how do i get to him. I wouldn't want to climb and use a prusik on the line because my leader is just hanging off one piece and i am not sure how strong that is at the moment so i wouldn't want to add any stress to it. If I fell, jugging up on that line it could cause the piece to blow. So I am standing on teh ground. I have with me general climbing stuff, biners, webbing, cord, and an extra rope. How can I rope solo up to him without specific gear such as the silent partner. That is my question. And yea i don't need any "you shouldn't do it if you have to ask" responses because hey this is emergency here...and i am going to practice this stuff in a controlled setting this weekend (where i can clip into bolts and stuff and use extra gear to make me safe as i learn the ropes)
YOU really need to learn this fron a competent instructor, What you do in a rescue situation depends on the first element of rescue, and that is assess the situation and determine what must be done. Well, there are a lot of different scenarios to cover, but generally you try to determine what is holding up the injured climber, and if you can jug up or climb up using the lead line or not.
Anyway. you are supposed to somehow inspect the top piece and beef it up before doing a tandem rap or anything else. IF you have double ropes this whole procedure is much easier for obvious reasons.
If you can use the lead line, you use TWO prussiks, not one.
YOur original question again is one to ask a competent instructor.
You could also get a copy of Fasulo's rescue book.
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wallwombat
Feb 4, 2004, 6:06 AM
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I use clove hitches, but I only rope-solo when I'm predominantly climbing aid. I imagine if you were going to rope solo free climbs, you might want some kind of device such as a Silent Partner or a Soloist.
The Wombat
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