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artm
Feb 9, 2004, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
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This weekend I redpointed a route that I've attempted several times to lead clean, one that's been a bit of a nemesis.
The route in question has a hard bouldery start (the crux) with a scary fall before the first piece can be placed. The remainder of the route is overhanging and sustained with few rests.
I'm very happy about the whole thing, everything clicked and I actually found the flow during the climb.
There's a couple of key things that helped.
A) I knew I could static the crux and wasn't scared of decking out before getting my first piece in.
B) I avoided the whole "gang scene", I climb my best when it's just me and my partner.
C) My Belayer noticed that I hold my breath when placing gear but breathe normally while moving. She kept reminding me to breathe. I also asked her to point out a key handhold below the first rest when I got to it.
D) I moved the first 4 pieces to a designated gear loop so I could get to them fast.
E) I didn't worry about falling.
F) I didn't attach any signifance to my attempt before leaving the ground, if I fell I fell....if I sent I sent.
Regarding point E) I didn't worry about falling.
A friend I pm'd about this asked "to what do you owe that?"
I didn't worry about falling because I didn't think about falling.
I just kept climbing and plugging in gear. Since the first 4 pieces are well known to me I slotted them and kept moving. The crux itself felt easier because I knew I wouldn't fall there.
I also used positive self talk both from my belayer (reminders to breathe) and myself. I had a running commentary in my head to "keep moving, make it to the next stance". Also doing the climb with a lack of desire (ie worrying about getting a clean ascent) took a lot of the pressure off which enabled me to climb without worrying about a fall "ruining" a clean ascent.
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iamthewallress
Feb 10, 2004, 12:04 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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Sounds like you sent Clean and Jerk. :wink: Way to commit off the deck! Congratulations and welcome to the RWW forum. I'm glad that it's working for you.
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unabonger
Feb 10, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2003
Posts: 2689
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Nice job!
Sounds like things came together for you. What did you learn that you will carry forward to future efforts?
In reply to: I didn't worry about falling
Excellent proverb: Worry is interest paid on a debt not yet incurred!
UB
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dirtineye
Feb 10, 2004, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590
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Sounds like you did a great job of focusing on what you had to do to climb.
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