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gleighsd
Feb 10, 2004, 9:20 PM
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I am trying to purchase Boreal Ace climbing shoes and I am slowly learning that Boreal is phasing this shoe out according to Nomad Ventures. That being said, does anyone have any good recommendations for a good board lasted type shoe that is great for full day multi-pitch trad climbs? I think the Ace is a great edging shoe because of its hardness which I assume comes from the board last. I also think its a great Trad shoe. Regretably I can't find someone in the US that has my size and I wondered if anyone had suggestions for a different shoe.
Thanks,
Greg
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tylerm
Feb 10, 2004, 9:22 PM
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La Sportiva Murias...I've had 2 pairs now and wouldn't think of using anything else (except Aces...)
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caughtinside
Feb 10, 2004, 9:26 PM
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5.10 newtons sound like what you might be looking for.
That said, once I started climbing in Moccs I vowed never to get board lasted shoes again. The moccs are much more sensitive than the newtons, so its easier to feel what you're standing on. They edge pretty well, in my opinion.
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hema
Feb 10, 2004, 10:16 PM
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My vote is on the Newton aswell. Then of course there is the Sportiva Mythos and also around here most people also use Anazazi lace-ups on trad-routes.
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namascar
Feb 10, 2004, 11:58 PM
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I recommend a pair of Newtons for multi-pitch trad routes. This is what I have and I am happy with them. Maybe for shorter or more delicate routes I would use something else.
They edge well, but have bad sensitivity. They are great for cracks.
Don't get then too tight as they don't stretch much. I got my running shoe number and that is fine for me.
I heard they have a bit of an odor problem...
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iamthewallress
Feb 11, 2004, 12:33 AM
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I just got these Montrails:
http://www.montrail.com/goods/prod_description.cfm?id=78&gender=female
They're stiffer than Aces, if that's possible, and everything about their construction is BURLY. They probably aren't the best if you're doing something thin at your limit though. The only thing that I don't like about them is the heal tensioning buckle, but it's easy to cut that off.
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jimdavis
Feb 11, 2004, 4:37 AM
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T-Rocks!!!
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billcoe_
Feb 11, 2004, 4:47 AM
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I tried the Newtons on in my local climbing shop. They didn't fit well, plus 5.10 still is having quality problems. The $140 price tag was stiff as well.
I'm in Paris last year and see lots of shoes cheap. The ones that have impressed me the most long term cost the least: La Sportiva Focus. They fit like comfortable gloves and are very good for long routes. They cost me the equivalent of $60 brand new. I also bought a pair of Red Chilis which are not as good (for me). My Boreals, 5.10s, Red Chilis are now relagated to toprope and bouldering status.
The La Sportiva's are for longer - more serious climbs. Love em. I see them on sale here and there and they are one of the cheaper shoes out there so you're in luck.
Best to find something you like though.
Good luck:
Bill
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squish
Feb 11, 2004, 4:54 AM
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If you're looking for something similar in performance and fit, I found that the La Sportiva Cliffs are a good match. The Miuras are nice too, but softer and a more aggressive fit.
Does anyone make board-lasted shoes anymore? Too bad to see the Aces go.
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mistymountainhop
Feb 11, 2004, 5:47 AM
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I posted a topic a little while back about "best trad shoe" alot of people advised i get muiras. i made a good investment and i havent looked back.....................
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davidji
Feb 11, 2004, 6:12 AM
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In reply to: Regretably I can't find someone in the US that has my size and I wondered if anyone had suggestions for a different shoe.
Actually the truth is somewhere in between. With the factory rubber, they were terrible. It's not so much that S2 rubber is terrible. I didn't mind it in a more sensitive pair of shoes I have, but in the Aces it was terrible.
When fairly new, I resoled the Aces with Stealth, and then they climbed great for such a stiff shoe. Like climbing with sticky 2x4s on my feet rather than climbing with ice-skates. OTOH because of the lining, they never stretched to fit, and since they aren't comfortable enough for all day wear, I haven't used them for ages. So they're still fairly new.
If I needed a stiff all-day shoe, I'd probably try to remove the lining with a knife so they'd conform to my feet. I don't, and haven't. I've been wearing La Sportiva Mythos for most of my climbing for a long time.
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dirtineye
Feb 11, 2004, 4:12 PM
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If you still want a board lasted shoe, get sportiva enduros or megas.
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bsperes
Feb 11, 2004, 5:43 PM
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anasazi velcro or the miura
I like the easier off of the velcro but otherwise either serves me well for single or multi
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blondebrasilian
Feb 11, 2004, 5:46 PM
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One more vote for newtons. I have had them for 2 resoles now and would never give them up. The have a good fit and they work in a pinch on sport routes. If you want more details on them and how they fit etc. pm me.
Ben
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climbaholic
Feb 12, 2004, 5:35 AM
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Chock another one for the Newtons. On my third resole and they are still holding up great. Perfect comfort shoe that can be laced tighter for performance.
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the_alpine
Feb 12, 2004, 5:54 AM
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Like Ive preached all along....................it's not a shoe, it's a Newton!
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overlord
Feb 12, 2004, 8:36 AM
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la sportiva mythos or cliff blue. not too expensive and comfy. they even have a special "old style" ankle high shoe, i believe its called enduro.
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gleighsd
Feb 13, 2004, 11:36 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the great advice. I tried some of the montrails and I am going to try the Newtons as well as the La Sportiva Megas... this weekend...the mythos are not as good for my toe box but my friends love them. Thanks so much for all of the input.
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reprieve
Feb 14, 2004, 12:16 AM
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In reply to: La Sportiva Murias...I've had 2 pairs now and wouldn't think of using anything else (except Aces...)
Hey, have you ever worn the Testarossas? I went for a pair of those over the Muiras and I'm interested to see what people think about Muiras over Testarossas. Most people I've talked to who wore Muiras for a long time tried the Testarossas and never went back.
BTW, I wouldn't reccomend Testarossas for trad...sorry I kind of hi-jacked this thread.
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bouldersdothebodygood
Feb 14, 2004, 12:39 AM
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ok so guess what i know a place online where they sell the ace for 64 dollars.
but unless you have a size 7 or 7 and a half foot at most they are not gonna work. the sit is www.sportextreme.com .
so if lucky #7 or 7and a half is your foot size you are in luck good luck with this
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krustycowboy
Feb 14, 2004, 1:19 AM
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Mythos are the best all around trad shoe that I have used. They last long, have stood the test of time, and take resoles well.
Muiras are also good for short, hard, one pitch lines, but if you size them as tight as they should be, you'll be crying on about pitch 4 or a long route.
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cliffhanger9
Moderator
Feb 14, 2004, 7:18 AM
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the La Sport Focus
http://www.rockclimbing.com/shopping/product.php?p=332&list=1
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moss1956
Feb 14, 2004, 2:10 PM
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My son outgrew his Scarpa Reflexes which are a board lasted shoe, and they were my size, so I thought I would save some money and climb in them. I did a little bit. Board lasted shoes are really strange, you don't get any feel of the rock. It was interesting because I could put my toe in a little pocket and step straight up with the last holding my foot out straight rather than using my own muscles.
I think board lasted shoes are OK for beginners or people with weak feet. I did not feel comfortable with their lack of ``touch'' for the rock, and went a got a new pair of shoes.
For an all day shoe, its the fit that counts. You definitely need to the shoe to be good on cracks if you are going to climb trad in them. I wore La Sportiva Mythos for that a lot and really liked them. However, what you really need to do is go to a store with lots of different shoes and try them on.
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scubasnyder
Feb 14, 2004, 5:17 PM
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you can get 5.10 newtons or mesa's there both pretty good for trad climbin
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sfclimber
Feb 16, 2004, 9:51 PM
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Try http://dpclimb.netfirms.com/ They might have some Ace's in your size and go for less than retail.
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