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stick233
Feb 13, 2004, 4:30 PM
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if i was to hang a single line from rap bolts/ anchors, what would be the best way? my thought is to use a sling attached to each anchor, and tie a figure eight on a bight and clip it through a couple of beaners through each of the slings... lockers of course.
better ideas/ the right way??? thanks
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vertical_reality
Feb 13, 2004, 4:38 PM
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Why not just feed the rope directly through the bolts and rap that way?
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stick233
Feb 13, 2004, 4:54 PM
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i'm not talking about rapping. i actually want to set up a single line to jug and practice aid technique. my plan is to use a solo device on th sinlge line while placing gear and using aiders. a kind of top rope aid lesson... if a piece pulls, my device catches me.
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lambone
Feb 13, 2004, 4:59 PM
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When I'm fixing a line to an anchor....
I use a chordelet(sp?) clipped to the bolts with lockers and tied with a figure 8 knot. Attatch the rope to this power point with two lockers and a figure 8 on a bight. If you leave enough slack in the line you can allways use that slack end to back it up again to one of the anchor bolts. Make sense?
I assume you plan to jumar back up the line. Make sure it hangs free of any edges or you could get the chop. Have fun.
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lambone
Feb 13, 2004, 5:03 PM
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This photo demonstrates what I mean with the anchor chordelete(how the hell do you speel it?). It's your standard anchor set up. There is a way to tie a double-figure 8 on a bight also, which gives you two loops to clip into the power point....but I couldn't begin to explain how to tie it.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=15926
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imnotclever
Feb 13, 2004, 5:19 PM
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lambone,
Nice picture. How did you take it? Are you tied into the green line?
Well, it sure looks like a organized set up.
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j-tha-b
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Feb 13, 2004, 5:28 PM
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yeah, its chordlette, and just tie the thingy off and jump.
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stick233
Feb 13, 2004, 5:29 PM
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lambone, thanks, that makes alot of sense. and that picture is rad... you wanna come to arizona and give me a lesson? :lol:
thanks for the beta, i'll give it a try
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j-tha-b
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Feb 13, 2004, 5:32 PM
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yeah, its chordlette, and just tie the thingy off and jump.
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cracklover
Feb 13, 2004, 5:32 PM
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stick233, your technique sounds fine, as does lambone's.
If you want to save slings, biners, and the cordelette (or however it's spelled :roll: ) you could tie a double-figure-8 and clip each loop directly into one of the bolts. Here's a link to the knot, in case you're not familiar with it. Two locking biners is all the gear you'd need to leave up there.
If you don't want to learn that knot, you could simply tie a fig-8 (or better yet, an inline fig-8 ) on a bight, clip that into one bolt, then tie a clove-hitch to a biner on the other bolt, adjust the clove to equalize, and bingo, you're done. Again, just two locking biners.
GO
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lambone
Feb 13, 2004, 6:07 PM
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cracklovers method is good as well. It is a nice one because it allows you to get closer to the anchor bolts and eliminates extra links in the chain.
That photo was taken this summer while soloing Zodiac. I'm rapping down after leading the Devils Brow pitch. The Devils Brow is creating that shadow on the wall. The green line is my lead line, you can see the other end going up the pitch. I am acctually rapping on the haul line. But this is the scariest part of soloing for me, so when I got down to the belay, I tied into the slack end of the lead line while taking the photo.
Some other components of the system:
-Grey bag is rope bag
-Haul bag is tied off to last lead bolt of the prevois pitch, to get it out of the way. Tied with munter mule with the blue lower out line. White haul line is backed up to the main anchor.
-Blue sling from haul bag to main power-point is for my "pig-dynamic belay"
-Red daisy connects the anchor bolts for extra clip in points.
-Rainfly is inline with the ledge, 'cause it rained the day before....didn't get wet under Zorro Roof!
-Gear bag for rain jacket, lunch, smokes, sunscreen, flask, etc.
-Radio is crucial for soloing
Anyway...sorry i digress...
Stick233,
Fixing a line to self belay on toprope is a great way to practice aid climbing. I use this method alot to practice cam-hooking. I'll try the pitch...a thin crack or seam...only bringing a few cam hooks. That way your forced to trust them and lean what they can do...but if you fall, no big deal. A gri-gri works fine for this...just be sure to use a back up figure 8 to your harness, never trust any solo device alone. Have fun!
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abalch
Feb 13, 2004, 6:32 PM
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a good anchoring techinique is a dog-eared bowline. It was in climbing magazine last year, and you might be able to find the instructions on their website, but you can see it, and back engineer how to tie it by tying a retraced bowline. Sit down and tie a large, 12 to 18 inch bowline around your foot, and retrace it. take this off of your foot, and clip a carabiner to each independent loop of the bowline. This is a beautiful knot for anchoring when you are seconding someone on a route. It only takes a moment when tied correctly, and after clipping it, you can adjust the length to the anchor with a clove hitch attached to your harness with a locker. If often will tie it into an extra long tail on my tie-in knot before I leave the ground, clipping it around my harness like I would with any other anchoring device.
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ricardol
Feb 13, 2004, 8:51 PM
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2 bolt anchors are the easiest to setup ..
use a double length sling, clipped to each bolt, then tie a figure eight, and clip a locking biner to the PP ..
.. if the bolts are too far apart for this to work -- use a cordalette ..
lambone: gotta love those shots of zodiac .. i wished i hadn't been pissing my pants the whole way up and remembered to take more photos ..
to attach your line to the anchor .. you can use a figure eight and put that on the PP -- but getting that knot out will be a bitch .. when i was rapping or cleaning my fixed lines i fixed the line using a clove hitch, and backed it up with a figure eight to one of the bolts ..
the clove is easy to undo even after weighed
-- ricardo
btw -- carry a light hammer (or an aid hammer) so you can get nuts out of placements and undo knots that have been weighed.. (like hauling) ..
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stick233
Feb 13, 2004, 8:59 PM
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In reply to: 2 bolt anchors are the easiest to setup .. use a double length sling, clipped to each bolt, then tie a figure eight, and clip a locking biner to the PP .. .. if the bolts are too far apart for this to work -- use a cordalette .. lambone: gotta love those shots of zodiac .. i wished i hadn't been pissing my pants the whole way up and remembered to take more photos .. to attach your line to the anchor .. you can use a figure eight and put that on the PP -- but getting that knot out will be a b---- .. when i was rapping or cleaning my fixed lines i fixed the line using a clove hitch, and backed it up with a figure eight to one of the bolts .. the clove is easy to undo even after weighed -- ricardo btw -- carry a light hammer (or an aid hammer) so you can get nuts out of placements and undo knots that have been weighed.. (like hauling) ..
more good advice... seeing as the rope will be weighted the whole time, the clove hitch with fig 8 backup will probably suit me better... thanks ricardo
rob
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sfclimber
Feb 13, 2004, 10:21 PM
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John Long strongly reccomends the 'Atomic Clip' in "More Climbing Anchors" published by Falcon Books.
The only gear needed is two carabiners, one for each loop, for the bolts.
In the context of Long's comments, he is referring to belaying a second while tied into one end. However, you could tie off the end that the belayer would normally be tied into (say with a clove hitch or figure-8 clipped back into one of the biners) and just jug the free end. I've done this many times myself and it worked great.
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