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zeta


Feb 17, 2004, 5:31 AM
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Abs & breathing...
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You know those moves where you have to keep your abs tight and breathing right for tricky bouldering moves or overhangs/aretes?

I'm really bad at remembering to tighten my abs and maintain breathing. Even if I really focus on it before the move, it just all comes apart when I go to do it. It's really frustrating for me, b/c I feel like my footwork is fine and I'm improving a lot w/ other aspects of technique...but i just cannot seem to get my abs tight when I need to and I always pop off the rock at the crucial time.

Any tips out there?

gracias,
Jen


crackscars


Feb 17, 2004, 5:53 AM
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It's more than just tight abs at the precise moment, it's body tension. Instead of just contracting your abs, just think of keeping all your muscles in control, and move slowly and statically to where you need to go. Body tension, body tension..it's a mantra..keep repeating to yourself.

Oh, and breathe too.


pushsendnorcal


Feb 17, 2004, 6:09 AM
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try working L-Hangs
Hang for 5-30 seconds (depends on ability) and try to control your breath while doing so

Controlling Your Breath:
-Steady fluid breath
-No super power breaths (after your power breath is gone, your strength and stability in your core is weakened significantly)
-Focus on pulling your abdominals in the direction facing away from you
-Work on being motionless with this exercise, if you move too much, you cannot coordinate well with your breathing

-your power breath is a term used in fighting/martial arts where the diaphragm expands rapidly (increasing body tension), then shrinks rapidly (decreasing body tension)


ermsam


Feb 17, 2004, 4:56 PM
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Hey. You should check out the Core Training thread. It has all you need to know


cryder


Feb 17, 2004, 5:10 PM
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I think of it like a spider... smooth and controled, always a master of the environment. I suck at it, but hey, gotta have goals. :D

- n -


hippie_dreams


Feb 17, 2004, 5:30 PM
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I agree with the L hangs. I've been working those on my hangboard a bit and it seems to be helping.
I also do pull-ups like I'm sitting in a chair. Not as hard as the L shape, but still effective.

Always breath too! The way I understand is to breath in through the nose, out through the mouth -- more o2 that way.


scubasnyder


Feb 17, 2004, 5:35 PM
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move like a chameleon


solid


Feb 22, 2004, 4:48 PM
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Aerial kickboxing.

While doing lockoffs give yourself a bunch of different imaginary targets and then slowly and purposefully go to "kick" them. Adjust "targets" as needed. Do this for a while and it becomes automatic, then really focus on keeping your core compact and your breathing regular.


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