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50m rope enough?
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trailtripper


Mar 18, 2004, 7:53 PM
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50m rope enough?  (North_America: United_States: Oregon: Smith_Rock)
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I'm going to smith next week with a 50m rope, will it be long enough for the routes on morning glory wall or should I get a 60?


pk


Mar 18, 2004, 8:07 PM
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Re: 50m rope enough? [In reply to]
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check out - http://www.smithrock.com/routes/mgw/index.html -

It has some nice detail of the routes. Many climbs on morning glory wall are multi pitch climbs so I would bring a 60m myself at least.

P.K.


smithclimber


Mar 18, 2004, 9:34 PM
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Re: 50m rope enough? [In reply to]
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I'm going to smith next week with a 50m rope, will it be long enough for the routes on morning glory wall or should I get a 60?

A 50m rope should be adequate for rapping/lowering/TRing almost every route on Morning Glory. Only one caveat comes to mind and that would be if you choose to climb "Nine Gallon Buckets" all the way to the 3rd set of anchors (which are about 95' off the ground) AND then want to rap/lower/TR the route from those anchors. To rap/lower/TR from the 3rd anchor you WILL need a 60m rope.

However, with a little forethought and CARE the route can still be done with a 50m rope. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE to avoid any accidents (this should be standard procedure anyway).

Now, if you climb to the 1st anchor (5.9) it's only about 35 feet. If you climb to the 2nd anchor (5.10c) it's about 75 feet up, so still no problem with a 50m. If you choose to climb to the 3rd anchor (still 10c, since the crux was above the 1st anchor) the route can still be LEAD with the 50m rope BUT not cleaned via toproping. The leader would have to rap/clean from the 3rd anchor to the 2nd anchor, then make a second rappel from the 2nd anchor to the ground. Then, of course, anyone could TR the route up to that 2nd anchor.

Incidentally, the climbing between the 2nd and 3rd anchor is FUN climbing on larger pockets and shouldn't be written off.

Of course, if you have another rope with you, a double rope rappel (and then a double rope TR, if necessary) can be done from the 3rd anchor.
Again, that 3rd anchor is just shy of 100 feet off the ground.



Pk, the majority of the routes on Morning Glory Wall are single pitch routes.
Of the few multipitch routes that are on Morning Glory, I can't think of a single one that has a pitch longer than 165' (and therefore mandating a 60m rope). Even Zebra-Zion, with it's 4 pitches, doesn't require a 60m rope. Do you know of ANY one pitch that is longer than 165 feet (50m) on Morning Glory? If so, post it here.


pk


Mar 18, 2004, 9:41 PM
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Re: 50m rope enough? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm going to smith next week with a 50m rope, will it be long enough for the routes on morning glory wall or should I get a 60?

A 50m rope should be adequate for rapping/lowering/TRing almost every route on Morning Glory. Only one caveat comes to mind and that would be if you choose to climb "Nine Gallon Buckets" all the way to the 3rd set of anchors (which are about 95' off the ground) AND then want to rap/lower/TR the route from those anchors. To rap/lower/TR from the 3rd anchor you WILL need a 60m rope.

However, with a little forethought and CARE the route can still be done with a 50m rope. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE to avoid any accidents (this should be standard procedure anyway).

Now, if you climb to the 1st anchor (5.9) it's only about 35 feet. If you climb to the 2nd anchor (5.10c) it's about 75 feet up, so still no problem with a 50m. If you choose to climb to the 3rd anchor (still 10c, since the crux was above the 1st anchor) the route can still be LEAD with the 50m rope BUT not cleaned via toproping. The leader would have to rap/clean from the 3rd anchor to the 2nd anchor, then make a second rappel from the 2nd anchor to the ground. Then, of course, anyone could TR the route up to that 2nd anchor.

Incidentally, the climbing between the 2nd and 3rd anchor is FUN climbing on larger pockets and shouldn't be written off.

Of course, if you have another rope with you, a double rope rappel (and then a double rope TR, if necessary) can be done from the 3rd anchor.
Again, that 3rd anchor is just shy of 100 feet off the ground.



Pk, the majority of the routes on Morning Glory Wall are single pitch routes.
Of the few multipitch routes that are on Morning Glory, I can't think of a single one that has a pitch longer than 165' (and therefore mandating a 60m rope). Even Zebra-Zion, with it's 4 pitches, doesn't require a 60m rope. Do you know of ANY one pitch that is longer than 165 feet (50m) on Morning Glory? If so, post it here.

smithclimber there are a few that require a 60m rope or 2x 50m I can look them up later but one I know offhand that will definately require 2 50m ropes to reach the ground is lion zion 10c 12bolts to the anchor


smithclimber


Mar 19, 2004, 10:55 AM
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Re: 50m rope enough? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
smithclimber there are a few that require a 60m rope or 2x 50m I can look them up later but one I know offhand that will definately require 2 50m ropes to reach the ground is lion zion 10c 12bolts to the anchor

How far off the ground is the anchor on Lion Zion? If it's over 100' off the deck then having the 60m rope isn't going to help out much for rapping/lowering/TRing.
Is the lead longer than 165' yet less than 200' (making the 60m rope mandatory)?

Keep in mind the poster's original question:
In reply to:
I'm going to smith next week with a 50m rope, will it be long enough for the routes on morning glory wall or should I get a 60?
He's asking if he should get a 60m specifically. Do you foresee a 60m rope benefitting him over using his one (or two) 50m ropes? Should he go make a special purchase of a 60m rope for the routes on Morning Glory Wall? If you already have a 60m, then sure take it, but I don't think purchasing one is really necessary.


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