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daisuke
Apr 6, 2002, 9:04 PM
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After careful consideration I'm considering getting a pair of slippers for technical climbing, what's the best slipper out there for hard routes? cobra? V10?
comments please!
D
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natec
Apr 6, 2002, 9:11 PM
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I personally like the Red Chili Dos Equis. I just had mine resoled and cannot wait to try them out this evening. Not technically a slipper because its velcro, but its a great technical shoe.
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lostangel
Apr 6, 2002, 9:31 PM
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I am impatiently waiting in the mail for my new Cobras, I have heard alot of good things about them, when I tried them on in the store.. I think that they are gonna be awsome. I dont know how much telling you this is going to help you out though.
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dontneedfeet
Apr 7, 2002, 1:24 AM
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I use the Cobras, and love the things. I've tried the Moccasyms, but they mash my feet in all the wrong ways.
The V10s are something I'll defintely check out when they hit the market though.
It's been said before pretty on here though - shoes make up a derpessingly small part of the overall climber...
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munckee
Apr 7, 2002, 9:59 PM
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I have a pair of scarpa slippers that are the best I've ever owned; unfortunately the newer ones don't live up to the same quality. I need to get those resoled. I also got a pair of moccasyms (sp?) not too long ago that have been pretty darn nice.
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compclimber
Apr 7, 2002, 11:50 PM
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I had a pair of Cobra's that I kinda liked, but wasn't into them too much. (although, they make great shoes to walk a slackline with after i've done it soo much that my feet are rubbed raw and killing me.)
Now I climb in moccasyms and love them. Everything about them fit my feet well. Which surprised me after wearing Miura's for so long and not having cobra's fit me.
I am going to order a pair of V-10's at wholesale if I ever get my federal tax return back. So i'll let you know how those are.
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downshift
Apr 8, 2002, 1:19 AM
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My slipper are Scarpas and I really like them, they seem to be great for alot of techincal things.
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jdean
Apr 9, 2002, 12:15 PM
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I have a pair of Cobras and a pair of V10's. I really love them both as both are good for different things. The Cobras are more of an all around shoe when compared to the V10's which have a nice downturned toe and are really more of a bouldering/overhanging/edging shoe (i.e., don't try to smear with them). The Scarpa Reflexes are the same as the V10's, but Scarpas have a HUGE heel cup (on my foot at least), and of course, different rubber. A lot of people like the 5.10 Moccasyms, I have never tried them though. IMO, for your money, the Cobras are probably one of the best slippers you can buy.
-M@
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kelownaclimber
Apr 9, 2002, 1:21 PM
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I would have to say Moccasyms,they fit my feet very well and seem to last.I've been through three pairs of them now.Everyone has different feet so the important thing is to get a brand that fits well.For me that seems to be 5.10
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climberchic
Apr 9, 2002, 2:37 PM
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I have the Moccasyms, which I love. But if you get the right size (i.e. painfully small), they can be hard to wrestle into and out of.
I'd like to try a velcro shoe and after some research, have decided on the Anasazi Velcros. My friends all swear by them, so I'll give them a shot if I can just find a store that carries them (to try on).
Another shoe that I've been seeing a LOT of sick climbers wearing (beside the Dos Equis)is the Boreal Zen. The profile is a little to high and thick for the things that I want to do, but they look like a really good shoe. Since Boreal rubber is less than desirable, a friend suggested getting them resoled immediately with C4 rubber. I'm sure they would be fine regardless, as long as you're not cranking too hard.
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darkside
Apr 9, 2002, 3:06 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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I just bought the Zen but haven't climbed in them yet. The weekend was so cold I used my approach shoes so I could keep my socks on, I've been ice climbing on warmer days. The Zens look like a slipper version of the Laser which I found to be pretty good. As far as the rubber is concerned, there is very little difference in modern sticky rubber, foot technique will make more difference.
Incidentally the approach shoes were the 5.10 mountain master and do reasonable for a 5.6 but for the 5.8 I lead I used my usual trad shoes, the Infernos.
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case22
Apr 10, 2002, 1:52 AM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2001
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I myself don't have a really good pair of slippers. But one of the guys I climb with loves his velcro anasazi's. I've never heard anything bad about them and the rubber's not too hard but it's not so soft that it's going to get torn up badly after a few times on the rock.
Good luck on finding the shoe you want!!
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