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dredsovrn
Apr 3, 2004, 11:58 PM
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Looking for suggestions. I am getting into climbing with half ropes for trad and I am sure I could accelerate my learning by reading a good book on the subject. It seems to be mentioned here and there in other books, and I have checke out websites covering the topic, but nothing in depth. Not a matter of learning to lead and protect, but how to use techniques specific to this style.
Thanks
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boss
Apr 4, 2004, 12:13 AM
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http://www.gunks.com/...m=1&smGroup=2&smID=4
Here's a little somethin' about double ropes. I'm not sure if the book "On Rope" has anything, but it might. Best advice I can give you is to go out and practice. The techniques involved aren't difficult. Clip pieces on the left with left rope, pieces on the right with right rope, and don't cross the ropes. Beyond that it's all a matter of practice to make things run smoothly, get your system down, and keep your ropes from tangling. The website above does have some good info, so check it out! Have fun with the ropes. They make a huge difference when climbing sketchy routes!
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keithlester
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Apr 4, 2004, 7:49 AM
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I followed that link and it made a good read. I would say the author of the article definitely has it right. All his explanations matched up very closely to my experiences. It would make a good basis on which to start learning the techniques yourself. I commend it to anyone. :wink:
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keithlester
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Apr 4, 2004, 7:58 AM
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Had a dig through my library and found some more info for you. "Mountaineering: the freedom of the hills" by Swan Hill Press 5th edition, ISBN 1 85310 765 5. A short article in chapter 10 describes double rope technique. Its also quite good. :)
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dredsovrn
Apr 4, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions, but I have read all of those. I was hoping for something more indepth.
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cking0156
Apr 4, 2004, 2:51 PM
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The Complete Guide to Rope Techniques, A Comprehensive Handbook for Climbers by Nigel Shepherd is a very detailed and excellent source for rope infromation.
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rokshoxbkr19
Apr 4, 2004, 3:16 PM
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I knew this was you Dred, just forget about it bro. I aint gonna lead on half ropes mans, no, I guess I will for you bro.
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dirtineye
Apr 5, 2004, 1:10 PM
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It's not the leader who has to worry (much) it's the second who must work a lot harder to master double ropes.
The leader needs to do three things mainly: clip alternately at different heights (unless you are using ropes rated for twin AND double use), keep one color on one side and the other color on the other side, and remember (or ask) which color is on what side and which one to clip next.
The belayer has more than twice as much rope management to deal with, and since doubles are usually much thiner than singles, the belayer must consider using gloves or a belay device specially suited to stopping double ropes. You may have to learn a new belay device as well as new belay techniques.
Belaying is the tricky part of using double ropes, not leading.
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sspssp
Apr 5, 2004, 7:39 PM
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In reply to: Belaying is the tricky part of using double ropes, not leading.
Yup. And when you go out and start leading with doubles, I would recommend very easy routes (so the leader won't freak if the second has "belay" problems) and start out with routes that have big comfortable belay ledges.
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