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climbersoze
Apr 12, 2004, 5:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2003
Posts: 1142
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Can I get some pointers or links to some good single-pitch 5.8-5.10 lines in Red Rock Canyon? I am really looking for whatever areas have a large number of sub 10 and lower established routes (bolts or trad).
If you could give me established area names, and route names (not names like, that spot near mile 5 of the 13 mile loop) that would be great.
I am still fishing on the site, but it is a bit cryptic...
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noshoesnoshirt
Apr 12, 2004, 5:43 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2002
Posts: 440
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try the brass wall
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vegastradguy
Apr 12, 2004, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Moderate Mecca near Red Springs in Calico Basin. South facing cliff between the Loop Road and Calico Basin. Better directions are in the db. 5.8-5.10 aplenty. All trad. Classics include: Valentines Day, 5.8 (sandbagged, its more like 5.9), Pending Disaster, 5.9+ and Scalawag, 5.10.
Brass Wall in Pine Creek Canyon. check routes db for good directions. Classics include: Topless Twins, 5.9 (one of the best 5.9's around) and Straight Shooter, 5.9+ (great finger crack!).
Necromancer Wall in Ice Box. Classics include: Hop Route, Fold out, and of course, Sensous Mortician. 5.7-5.9 in that order.
Sunnyside Crags in Ice Box. Classics include: Cold September Corner 5.8, Magenellic Cloud 5.9, and Mister Masters, 5.9.
Ultraman Wall, 1st/2nd Pullout. Friction climbing at its best. Bolted sport lines. Need 2 lines for every route except Ultraman and Clutch Cargo, which are the classics at 5.8, 5.9 respectively.
Ragged Edges Wall, Willow Springs. Ragged Edges, although 2 pitches, is a great 5.8. A couple really good one pitch climbs are above and left of the wall. Tonto, 5.5 and Kemosabe, 5.10a are really good single pitch lines. Kemosabe is spicy, but good!
That should be enough good stuff for you. These are favorite crags of mine. enjoy.
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ricardol
Apr 12, 2004, 6:13 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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i think there is a few sub 10's at the Magic Bus.. on the 2nd pullout ..
those are single pitch ..
-- ricardo
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vegastradguy
Apr 12, 2004, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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Magic Bus and Panty Wall do have lots of easy climbs. But they're crowded holes and none of the climbs there are worth writing home about. They're also the premiere spot to go if you want to watch noobs learning how to climb.....
i'm not bagging on them, i learned to lead @ Panty Wall, but i am saying that they arent exactly the place to go if you already know what you're doing....
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bouldertom
Apr 12, 2004, 6:56 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2003
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In reply to: Magic Bus and Panty Wall do have lots of easy climbs. But they're crowded holes and none of the climbs there are worth writing home about. They're also the premiere spot to go if you want to watch noobs learning how to climb..... i'm not bagging on them, i learned to lead @ Panty Wall, but i am saying that they arent exactly the place to go if you already know what you're doing....
Ha, my brothers and I were those "noobs" at Christmas break. I had only led 5.6 to that point and my brothers hadn't at all. There were some fun 5.7-9 on the Panty Wall and Magic Bus, but yeah it was incredibly crowded.
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