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rickyrocket31
Apr 14, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Have you ever used the power cams from Metolius as passive protection? Do they are bomber in this way?
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joshklingbeil
Apr 14, 2004, 7:54 PM
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No,I dont use cams in passive mode. I think if i had to I would rather use a camalot in passive mode. But I would rather use passive gear for passive placements.
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maculated
Apr 14, 2004, 7:55 PM
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I've used a #1 as passive gear once. I didn't like it much.
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trad_mike
Apr 14, 2004, 8:42 PM
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If you find that you need to use cams passively at your crag, invest in some hexes. There are some placements where a hex is bomber and a cam is sketch.
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cjstudent
Apr 14, 2004, 8:51 PM
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In reply to: If you find that you need to use cams passively at your crag, invest in some hexes. There are some placements where a hex is bomber and a cam is sketch.
I used a .5 camalot in passive mode last weekend. The placement was really narrow at the opening then opened up into a huge pocket. i don't know any other way to protect this than using a cam because if you could slide any other pro in the opening it would just pull right back out of the opening...and there was no sliding pro in from the side either. Maybe that was teh one exception though.
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overzealous
Apr 14, 2004, 8:56 PM
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Ok, I'm a complete noob here (and in general) but couldn't you slide a hex in then turn it sideways in the situtation you described? Maybe I'm visualizing this wrong but I know in my (very limited) trad leading I've done that a few times.
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joshklingbeil
Apr 14, 2004, 9:04 PM
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Or use a Tri-Cam if you them. Mine sit at home alot. But they sometimes fit where nothing else fits.
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rrrADAM
Apr 14, 2004, 9:08 PM
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Nope... I use passive gear as passive pro, and active gear as active pro.
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iclimbtoo
Apr 14, 2004, 9:09 PM
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Why use a cam as passive if you have something else to use? Plus, I would only use camalots.
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coylec
Apr 14, 2004, 9:35 PM
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I don't know about the metolius power cams? do they have intergral cam stops (i.e. they are part of the cam lobe) or are they like the tcus (where the cam stop is a pin?
if they aren't integral, i'd never use them passively. if they were, i'd try to never use them passively.
I'm with rrrAdam on this one: passive for passive, active for active.
coylec
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sanguineclimber
Apr 14, 2004, 9:42 PM
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Would slider-nuts work in this situation? Also, I may be wrong, but i think the only cams that are safe to use as passive pro are the BD's because they have the double axle and something about the cams being an intergral prat of the stem :?
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antepater
Apr 15, 2004, 2:23 AM
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passive pro=passive gear, and tri cams are the bomb. Not always but they always find thier way onto my rack especially the black and pink sizes. I usually come up with a good placement on most rock.
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cjstudent
Apr 15, 2004, 3:21 AM
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In reply to: Ok, I'm a complete noob here (and in general) but couldn't you slide a hex in then turn it sideways in the situtation you described? Maybe I'm visualizing this wrong but I know in my (very limited) trad leading I've done that a few times.
The pocket/minicave on the inside was really huge. Tri-cam wouldn't work because it wouldn't be able to be put in camming mode, and if i was able to just slide it in there it would have slid out. Also, the hex idea might have worked. But I don't carry them any more much, and on top of that it wouldn't have been stable. The camalot was bomber, wasn't coming out.
That is however the only time I've used cams as passive. Nuts and tri-cams are my usual passive pro and if i think i will use them i carry a few hexes.
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keithlester
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Apr 15, 2004, 4:27 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Ok, I'm a complete noob here (and in general) but couldn't you slide a hex in then turn it sideways in the situtation you described? Maybe I'm visualizing this wrong but I know in my (very limited) trad leading I've done that a few times. The pocket/minicave on the inside was really huge. Tri-cam wouldn't work because it wouldn't be able to be put in camming mode, and if i was able to just slide it in there it would have slid out. Also, the hex idea might have worked. But I don't carry them any more much, and on top of that it wouldn't have been stable. The camalot was bomber, wasn't coming out. That is however the only time I've used cams as passive. Nuts and tri-cams are my usual passive pro and if i think i will use them i carry a few hexes.
I/m with you mate, use what works. WC tech friends also work good this way, having built-in cam stops. The more trad you do, the more ingenious tricks you learn. Make your own rules :wink:
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rocknut1
Apr 15, 2004, 4:45 AM
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Camelots are the only cams rated for passive pro.
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keithlester
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Apr 15, 2004, 1:53 PM
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In reply to: Camelots are the only cams rated for passive pro.
Out of date info, friend, Wild Country Technical friends are now being sold with inbuilt cam stops and rated for passive pro. Trust me, I have them. :)
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deleted
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Apr 15, 2004, 2:30 PM
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sure, cams can be used in a passive mode. in fact, some -- like bd and wildcountry -- are actually rated for passive placement. why, if, like me, you're an old dog from back in the day, you know how to use [i:cc888c8f02]nuts[/i:cc888c8f02] in an [i:cc888c8f02]active[/i:cc888c8f02] camming mode.
however ... [i:cc888c8f02]i would strongly suggest using gear the way it was designed to be used[/i:cc888c8f02].
certainly there are those times when your only options are to think outside the box (ever use a piton to cam an offwidth like a big bro?), but you'd best have a hell of a lot of miles on your rock shoes before you delve into the black art of cutting corners 200 feet off the deck.
until that time, use cams to, well ... [i:cc888c8f02]cam[/i:cc888c8f02].
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madyak
Apr 15, 2004, 3:36 PM
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In reply to: but you'd best have a hell of a lot of miles on your rock shoes before you delve into the black art of cutting corners 200 feet off the deck. until that time, use cams to, well ... cam.
Amen! Alpine is all about improv, but you definitely shouldn't be doing it when you don't have a lot of experience or there are other options before you.
If you're climbing stuff you can get a topo for and you see that you're going to need more 4 inch cams than you have, then bring along hexes, they're not expensive, they're light weight, and well, they're very happy as passive pro.
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j_ung
Apr 15, 2004, 3:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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This sounds like a job for...
TRICAM MAN!
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