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dynoguy
Apr 27, 2004, 2:53 AM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
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I'll be in the Mt. Rushmore and Blackhillls area for a few days this june, where would you South Dakotans recommend I spend my precious climbing time. I climb easy to moderate trad, moderate sport, and like to boulder.
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tradmanclimbs
Apr 27, 2004, 3:00 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
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8^) custer st park is pure heaven. free camping a few miles outside the park on forrest service land. at least there used to be. Not sure if there is a guide in print though?
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petergram
Apr 27, 2004, 3:13 AM
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Registered: Apr 9, 2004
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Check out my website for Black Hills climbing!
http://www.climbingblackhills.com/
It has a pretty big database of routes. For sport, definitely check out the Mt. Rushmore areas (South Seas, Chopping Block, Monster). In Custer State Park, spend some time at the Ten Pins (Tricouni Nail & Tent Peg). Other good places are the Outlets and the Cathedral Spires for trad routes. All of these areas are on climbingblackhills.com.
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dynoguy
Apr 27, 2004, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
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If you've ever been to Smith how do the grades compare between the two?
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atg200
Apr 27, 2004, 1:51 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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there is a lot of excellent bouldering in the black hills. old baldy at rushmore is the most extensive - check out the new friction addiction video or climbingblackhills for information.
in the needles, the campground boulder at sylvan lake is classic and has a range of problems. most of the other bouldering is hard.
when your fingers are shredded, you can check out the rock maze near rapid city(off nemo road). it is sandstone sortof reminiscent of horsetooth reservoir, and lots of problems at a wide range of grades.
guidebooks are really lacking to the black hills. climbingblackhills is a good place to start.
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el_capitan
May 13, 2004, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2002
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I've climbed at both places (Smith and Black Hills) and the grades are about the same but the climbing is a bit different. What I mean is that at the Black Hills, it can be really run out (in the Needles, not at Mt.Rushmore which is well protected) so you might want to back off a few grades at first. And the rock/climbing is different. You will find more face/slab climbing in the Black Hills and I believe the rock is granite, whatever it is, its very crystally. You climb on little knobs of crystals which takes some time getting used to. Its really hard to compare grades other then that because the climbing is so different.
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rrrADAM
May 13, 2004, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Needles baby... In Custer State Park. Been there and loved it.
Also My Rushmoore has some really good Sport.
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pecsparker
May 13, 2004, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2003
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There are also about 350 excellent sport routes on the limestone of Spearfish Canyon. Grades range from 5.7 to 5.13c, with most of the standouts being in the 10+ to 13- range. There is a guidebook available.
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bluffscaler
Aug 21, 2004, 5:31 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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I can recommed the moderate sport routes Wave, Lead Fillings and Sharks' Fin in the South Seas area and Wierd Water in the Marker area and the trad route Garfield Goes to Washington in the Emancipation area. Check out http://www.climbingblackhills.com/rock/ for route beta and comments.
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