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berserk
May 17, 2004, 1:12 AM
Post #26 of 28
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Registered: May 15, 2003
Posts: 59
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Quote:
"So, I hardly think the FA was too worried about the damage on the environment."
That doesn't mean we shouldn't be, does it? Rather, we should strive at making the ascent 'cleaner'.
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joshklingbeil
May 17, 2004, 1:49 AM
Post #27 of 28
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 403
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R/X Climbs are their for your enjoyment. You might only be a 5.5R leader but its still good fun.
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markc
May 17, 2004, 8:46 PM
Post #28 of 28
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
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In reply to: In reply to: You don't have to clip the bolts just because they're there. This is the all time worst f%$*ing argument for putting in a chicken bolt that has ever been used. (Quoting it should be grounds for dismissal from the trad forum.)
Right on. I'll drag out an old post of mine yet again:
"I've heard a lot of folks here say that retrobolting shouldn't have any impact on the route. "If you don't like it, don't clip it." Things to that effect. I'm a gumby compared to most folks here, but I have respect for those who came before me.
"I live in Pittsburgh, which has some great old architecture. Near the intersection of 5th and Shady there was a pair of stone mansions. One was purchased and renovated a few years back. In the process, the new owners ripped the soul from the house, tacked on modern additions, and left just enough of the old facade to remind you of the house's former beauty. It would have been better to just go to bare earth and start over.
"How's that relate to climbing? Bolting an established route is modifying an old house. These routes and houses are a tangible link to our past, that can be experienced by current and future generations as long as they are preserved. If you remodel all the old houses, if you retrobolt all the old routes put up in bold style, you're doing a disservice to the community. While there are plenty of old houses and routes, should we sit idly by while more and more are modernized? If the day comes when I just bring quickdraws to Seneca, or when every house looks like it was built last week, won't something be irretrievably lost? Sure, I can sit down and show my nephew pictures of old houses, or how a route existed originally. I'd rather be able to show him in person. "
In a trip to the Adirondacks last year, I dealt with unavoidable runouts for the first time. We frequently had three of four pieces of pro in 200' of climbing. We kept the grade within our limits, but it definitely required focus. I was surprised by how little I thought about slipping vs. thinking about the climb. Great trip, I can't wait to go back.
mark
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