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mowgli_z
Jun 25, 2004, 8:27 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2004
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Tip of the Day:
Not a Clovehitch and only adjustable if you build it right for each pitch belay station. It will save bringing extra equipment up the wall.
Everyone has an Adjustable Daisy built in to the end of the rope that they are tied into:
Just use 15 to 20 feet of the end of the rope to build a Cordelett Anchor System. This way you are equalized on both the Chains or Gear. The longer the cordelett, the safer you can move around at the belay station and less pressure on the Chains and Gear.
More INFO:
Read an Anchors book on Cordelettes. I like tie my cordelett with a bite between all anchor points. It’s safer if one anchor point fails. (gear)
For example, but it's for only as many anchors (chains), trees, or gear you can use: 2+ plus extra(s) for safety
http://www.petzl.com/...s/Conseil_35_2_4.gif
Exception to the Rule:
You can’t use the rope as a cordelett on the top pitch if you’re the second climber, you’ll need the ends of the rope to repel off. You can use your draws to clip chains & stay safe.
Mowgli Zettabaud
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mountainchick82
Jun 25, 2004, 6:39 PM
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I climb multipitch sport and the people who I have climbed with haven't been grossly under prepared. I always carry more draws than needed (hell..even on single pitch because you never know when you might drop one) and I carry slings with me as well to build my anchor with as well as a few locking biners.
As far as the anchor you're describing, thats a standard anchor I've seen used in trad. The places I've climbed multipitch sport don't have 3 anchors at belay stations but thats just me (I'm a noob I could be wrong). Have you ever thought of using a dog-eared bowline? It works..it was mentioned in Climbing a few issues back.
Cheers.
Btw..I was wondering how you fit in all that climbing? 3-5 days a week and 11-17 routes a day. Impressive.
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climbinginchico
Jun 25, 2004, 6:44 PM
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I nor anyone I have climbed with have ever been caught unprepared on multi-pitch sport routes. Our standard rule of thumb: count the bolts, including anchors, and carry that many draws, plus 3, in case you get off route somehow. And I carry slings with lockers on each end too. And every now and then my spectra daisy. You won't find me unprepared ever, at least I try my best to never be shorthanded.
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sarcat
Jun 25, 2004, 6:50 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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I think you'll find most sport-os will realize soon that there is extra gear needed for multi pitch routes. I have two daisies I keep on my harness at all times whether multi or not.
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iamthewallress
Jun 25, 2004, 6:56 PM
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In reply to: Our standard rule of thumb: count the bolts, including anchors, and carry that many draws, plus 3, in case you get off route somehow.
Wow! Are there really multipitch sport areas that are so genuinely grid bolted that one could get off route? I thought people usually used that term dramaticly.
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climbinginchico
Jun 25, 2004, 7:05 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Our standard rule of thumb: count the bolts, including anchors, and carry that many draws, plus 3, in case you get off route somehow. Wow! Are there really multipitch sport areas that are so genuinely grid bolted that one could get off route? I thought people usually used that term dramaticly.
not really. but sh!t happens, and i would rather be over prepared than under. plus, one might miss a bolt or 2 from the ground count. and maybe the buddy needs to clip in too, and he forgot slings. ya know? :wink:
EDIT: and if I know there are 3 bolt anchors, I bring my techcord cordelette and lockers.
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mountainchick82
Jun 25, 2004, 7:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 20, 2004
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I haven't seen something bolted that well in multipitch. As far as getting off route or having a buddy forget something..check when you're on the ground as far as gear and having a buddy forget something: redundancy redundancy redundancy.
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dsafanda
Jun 25, 2004, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: Everyone has an Adjustable Daisy built in to the end of the rope that they are tied into: Just use 15 to 20 feet of the end of the rope to build a Cordelett Anchor System.
Huh? Comparing a cordolette to an adjustable daisy doesn’t make much sense to me. A cordeltte is designed for creating a strong, multidirectional and redundant anchor. Adjustable daisys are designed for holding body weight while aid climbing. Adjustable daisys are not designed to be used as components of a belay anchor and they don't function at all like a cordolette.
Now, I know that what you're really suggesting is that people use a cordolette to give themselves the same convenience that an adjustable daisy offers. However, how exactly do you easily adjust the distance between yourself and the anchor with one hand while belaying when using a cordolette as shown in your diagram? Using a cordolette is fine but if you really want to mimic the ease of adjusting an adjustable daisy you should have mentioned using a clove hitch.
This is a strange thread.
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madmax
Jun 25, 2004, 7:23 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2003
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In reply to: Everyone has an Adjustable Daisy built in to the end of the rope that they are tied into: Just use 15 to 20 feet of the end of the rope to build a Cordelett Anchor System. This way you are equalized on both the Chains or Gear. The longer the cordelett, the safer you can move around at the belay station and less pressure on the Chains and Gear.
What are talking about, Mowgli? Adjustable daisy built into the end of the rope to build a cordelette? The diagram you showed looks like a pretty standard cordelette. How do I use the end of the rope that I'm tied into to make a cordelette?
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vegastradguy
Jun 25, 2004, 7:33 PM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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the built in adjustable daisy feature that is included in all ropes is known as the clove hitch, not a cordlette.
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mowgli_z
Jun 26, 2004, 6:07 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2004
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I love you~!!!
Mowgli Zettabaud
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vegastradguy
Jun 26, 2004, 6:18 AM
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mowgli- didnt notice my reply, eh? it wasnt personal, it had to do with your post. i was just noting that a clove hitch is fully adjustable and serves the purpose of a daisy. it does this better than a cordelette.
while it is true that you can build a cordelette out of your rope, on sport multipitch, this is (hopefully) not necessary. it also doesnt serve the purpose you want it to. the cordelette creates an anchor, not a daisy.
just make sure to use lockers if you use the clove hitch to anchor with.
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twoliter
Jul 7, 2004, 5:56 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2004
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I think the cordellet is a bit overrated, I stopped carring it a few years back, Seems the novis is the guy with two or three cordellets on the back of his harness. For me a clove hitch with a locker to one bolt and a runner with two lockers to the other is fast, simple and strong. There are alot of complicated knots and gear that are claimed to be supior, but to me the simpler the system the better. After I barley drag myself up some hard pitch my mental capacity is about 25% or less. At this time I just want to clip in and not worry if my special knot is tied correctly.
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dingus
Jul 7, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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In reply to: Reply: I’ve noted that most threads I’ve started; the point of sharing the info was picked apart but no one replies regarding the point of the info.
You must be a troll then.
In reply to: Instead of taking everything personal and getting defensive.
You should take a drink from your own mug Mowgli.
In reply to: I want to learn from other people, not listen to people chat with each other ~(off topic)~??? Think before you speak (type) otherwise don’t reply to me.
OK, to point: You ARE a troll, you cute little munchkin! Watch out for the fucking tiger!
DMT
Mowgli Zettabaud
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