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texasclimber
Jun 8, 2004, 3:25 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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I just moved to SLC in November and have climbed Little Cottonwood, BCC, Moab, and American Fork. From what I can tell, BCC has the most MODERATE (5.9-5.11) climbs. Is that about right? Where else is a good place for moderate sport? Is rock canyon worth climbing at? Let me know:)
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sarcat
Jun 8, 2004, 3:28 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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AF Canyon has tons of climbs and more being put up. If you can find the old book it'll give you where the walls are or go to drtopo.com and yu can get a simple overview.
Have fun.
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verticalclimb
Jun 8, 2004, 4:03 PM
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Registered: May 16, 2003
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There afre great climbing areas in both BCC and LCC. Choose your rock, BCC is mostly Quartzite and LCC has great granite pitches. There is also Fergusson or Lost Canyon that has some good granite climbs. Have a good season climbing...I get to watch from the sidelines for a while so I can nurse a bad ankle.
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bdawg
Jun 8, 2004, 4:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
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rock canyon is worth going to also, just make sure you go up the canyon a little bit, or it will be crowded with newbies from byu.
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sidepull
Jun 8, 2004, 4:58 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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I'm a big fan of BCC sport routes, lots of good stuff there. I really like the S-curves, but some of the smaller crags have some stellar routes too.
Is rock canyon worth the drive? Maybe. The bug barn wall is all moderate - hardest is an 11b. But it's really clean stone, not chossy stuff like AF and not super polished either. However, it's the summer and the wall faces west so it gets a lot of sun - best to hit it early. Not a long hike, but it keeps you away from the crowds.
If you're really aching for limestone, there's hellsgate above Snowbird. It's fun stuff but not classic. Of course, I haven't been there for 2 years.
Good luck.
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therealdeal
Jun 9, 2004, 5:10 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2002
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maple has by far the best selection of moderate sport routes around.
also, try the millstone in bcc
wear a helmet at the hellgate if you go...but the 2 or 3 classic routes are not really moderate. the easy routes in the slide path are death traps and should be chopped.
don't bother with moab, when it gets cold, go to st. george
have fun
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rioclimb
Jun 9, 2004, 5:50 AM
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Registered: May 20, 2004
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maple is really cool, one of my favorite places to climb. hellgate in lcc has good limestone, very fun, also a lot of granite climbs in lcc. you can find very good limestone up in logan canyon, north of salt lake.
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texasclimber
Jun 9, 2004, 3:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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Thanks for all the advise. About Rock Canyon, what is the best guidebook for that area? Rock Climbing Utah? Is Provo Canyon worth climbing at?
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brianinslc
Jun 9, 2004, 3:44 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: Thanks for all the advise. About Rock Canyon, what is the best guidebook for that area? Rock Climbing Utah? Is Provo Canyon worth climbing at?
Is Rock Canyon even in Rock Climbing Utah? Can't remember...
Anyhoo, I think the Ruckman's guide to AF should have it (I seem to recall). Unless you live in Happy Valley, my opinion is that Rock Canyon isn't worth the drive. Better to hang in BCC if you're lookin' for sports climbing routes. Also, with the warmer temps, you might try the north facing areas in LCC. Coalpit gully (to the right of the Pentapitch area) is nice and cool, and has a few sport type climbs. So does the area to the right of the Great White Icicle, although, the bolted routes there aren't what we might call "sport" climbs.
Very worth gettin' on the trad band wagon. Opens up so much more terrain.
Prove Canyon is really a no go for rock climbing. Mixed and ice yes, but, sport climbing? Nope. Santaquin has some stuff. So does Hobble Creek.
Ditto Maple for fun sport climbing.
Brian in SLC
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texasclimber
Jun 10, 2004, 4:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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I'd love the get into trad, but cost is the big issue though and my climbing partner (fiance) isn't interested. Sport is fun and easier. We are moving to Orem due to our jobs but SLC isnt very far for weekend climbing. I guess I just need to get better so I can climb more in AF:)
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screamer
Jun 10, 2004, 5:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2001
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Division in Af has at least 9 or 10 11a/b routes. You'll probably want to chase the shade this time of year, but very doable.
Escape Buttress tons of 10's (left 4 being the best) and a couple 11's. Late afternoon, i think its in the shade....
Definately Maple, tons of everything....
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over_the_hill
Jun 10, 2004, 6:35 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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Here is a suggestion for you. Try the unlisted routes by the Penguin in BCC. The wall is called the "Tear Garden" and has a bunch of fun moderate sport lines. NO ONE (until now) knows about these, and they are a lot of fun. Great place for relief from the sun (after 2 pm) and relief from crowds. 20 minute scree battle does suck, but small price to pay for good climbs. PM me for photo of climbs (still searching for route names/ descriptions) Good luck
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therealdeal
Jun 25, 2004, 11:13 PM
Post #13 of 19
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Registered: Oct 29, 2002
Posts: 250
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Rock Canyon is actually very worthwhile...especially living in Orem. Way better rock than BCC or AF. Talk to Darren at Mountain Works, the climbing shop in Provo. He knows EVERYTHING about the more Southern Wasatch areas....Santaquin Canyon as well.
Good Luck
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bongowurm
Jun 26, 2004, 1:40 AM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
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A word about the Rock Canyon sub 5.10s... they can be hard. There is one attractive "5.8" early canyon, Chicago Overhang, which has been described as a hard 5.12.
They prominent Red Slab at the mouth may entice you with the 5.6-5.9 selection, however I found the stronger of the bunch to be harder than any 10 in the limestone up canyon. Maybe I am a supreme wuss, but man oh man did The Mantle Route (5.8) do me in, excellent route all the same... Anyways my point is these climbs are high quality but hard for the grade. I must agree that Maple Canyon is the place to be, especially in late june. Maple maple maple. The place to be.
Hope that helps, maybe it'll even save you some shoe rubber! Happy hunting.
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dawnyb
Jun 26, 2004, 3:29 AM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 46
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Forget BCC, go to Maple and AF. Much better sport routes, much bigger selection, especially Maple. BCC is for after work when there's nothing better to do. You will be happy at the following walls:
AF - Division, Membrane, Escape Buttress (but not in summer), Hard Rock
Maple - Schoolroom, Bridge, Lefthand Fork, Zengarden...
Now go!!
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texasclimber
Jun 26, 2004, 3:44 AM
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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How far is Maple from Orem? It sounds like that is the place to be. Cobles Cobles and more Cobles.
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texscala
Jun 27, 2004, 3:45 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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I really enjoy Rock Canyon, I have beeen climbing the canyon for a year now and and still have only climbed half of the walls available. The front of the canyon is pretty easy for the most part but it is overcrowded. If you want routes between 5.9 to 5.11 where people don't climb as much try Ed and Terry, Geoge, The Hidden, or any other wall back in the canyon. As for books forget about it. The available book is outdated missing more than half the sport climbs and a lot of the ratings are wrong also.
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dawnyb
Jun 27, 2004, 7:12 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2004
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In reply to: How far is Maple from Orem? It sounds like that is the place to be. Cobles Cobles and more Cobles.
Maple Canyon is maybe 1 h from Orem. You go south on 15 until you hit Nephi, go east past the Nebo Loop, and then wind your way through Fountain Green. It's quick from where you live.
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angelheadedhipster
Jun 27, 2004, 9:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2004
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THe slips in BCC have to great 10's. THe 10c on the left is one of my favorite climbs. if you feel like drive about two hours, the Uintah mountains can't be beat. Solitude, beautiful high peaks, amazing quartzide, and a lot of moderate climbs. then again if you go there I won't be alone anymore, so don't go. Ruth lake in the uintah is awesome.
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