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ferret
Jun 27, 2004, 7:39 PM
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hell yeah i'd clip sum 1 elses draws, SPECIALLY on somehting that was a bit outta my range, means i dont have to loose any of MY gear, unless of course i get stuck PAST the draws.
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g-funk
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Jun 27, 2004, 8:35 PM
Post #27 of 140
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In reply to: don't you guy worry that leaving veritcal trash around will inflame non climbing types , causing even more bolting restrictions, or the loss of whole areas like cave rock up by tahoe? when I started climbing there was no access issues at all, but after sport climbing became popular there seems to be new access problems all over. every areas ethics are different but I don't think the nonclimbing population will view slings and draws left at any area as acceptable, they don't know or care how hard it is to clean the stuff, it's just some sort of trash up there. this isn't something I would do as I don't work routes, and will need them on the next climb I'll be doing. do what you like it only effects me when I can't go there anymore, at that point we're all bummed
I definitely second that.
We all know that it's nice to have things ready to go ASAP when we finish the approach, but leaving draws and runners on the rock is a sure way to get access restricted.
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fingerjam
Jun 27, 2004, 8:55 PM
Post #28 of 140
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I personally wouldnt clip in some draw that I didnt leave. I just dont know if I could trust on my life on it. I know climbers have good intentions, but draws out in the weather, with sunlight, rain and all, i donno, nothing like my good old draws to back me up. Good Idea, but I wouldnt clip it.
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iclimbtoo
Jun 27, 2004, 9:08 PM
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After reading some of the responses by people on various other threads, my answer would be HELL NO would I leave them for fear they'd be ripped off.
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musicman
Jun 27, 2004, 9:16 PM
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when i was in maple there were also draws left on a 12a for over 3 days, i wouldn't leave them on because not all climbers think that stealing draws is a crime, i probabaly wouldn't climb on them just because you don't know there history and what has happened to them, i also think that leaving draws on a climb when you aren't there is somewhat lame, your'e no better than the person who wants to climb it next, there's no "shotgun" calling rule on climbs and when there draws are there you feel like you can't climb on it, like there is a reservation paper on it saying Mr. BD Posiwire has this climb reserved, it also seems quite risky, people are poor and cheap and don't always care about other people
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catbiter
Jun 27, 2004, 11:25 PM
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No way. I'm not rich and I'm sure that I would be needing them.
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2004, 1:34 AM
Post #32 of 140
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In reply to: In reply to: don't you guy worry that leaving veritcal trash around will inflame non climbing types , causing even more bolting restrictions, or the loss of whole areas like cave rock up by tahoe? when I started climbing there was no access issues at all, but after sport climbing became popular there seems to be new access problems all over. every areas ethics are different but I don't think the nonclimbing population will view slings and draws left at any area as acceptable, they don't know or care how hard it is to clean the stuff, it's just some sort of trash up there. this isn't something I would do as I don't work routes, and will need them on the next climb I'll be doing. do what you like it only effects me when I can't go there anymore, at that point we're all bummed I definitely second that. We all know that it's nice to have things ready to go ASAP when we finish the approach, but leaving draws and runners on the rock is a sure way to get access restricted.
Maybe no one told you two, but the cave rock access issues are in no way related to quickdraws on the cliff. I'd even venture that neither of you have climbed there.
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roughster
Jun 28, 2004, 1:41 AM
Post #33 of 140
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In reply to: OH, and Roughster, what about Jailhouse? That's a leave-draws-hangin area fo sho, and it's in CA. :wink:
Man have you seen those "draws"? LOL, noone would touch them with a 10 foot pole anyways! :lol: I am still wondering who the unlucky soul will be to go for the 100 Foot Whipper when every draw on Soap On A Rope explodes upon being weighted :lol:
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xanx
Jun 28, 2004, 1:49 AM
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what about Rumney?
i think all the hard stuff there (china beach, livin astro, ect...) already has preplaced draws, but i've heard that's b/c it's so hard to clean since it's so steep.
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telemarkist
Jun 28, 2004, 2:10 AM
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don't think that the crap left up at cave rock didn't have an effect on the folks who eventually got it closed, I'm sure there where other reasons as well, but the trash at that place was pretty bad and to nonclimbers, draws and slings look about the same as beer cans and pampers, most likely some of the trash on the ground came from other sources but once again they don't know that or care.
to caught inside, I live in reno which is awful close to cave rock and have been there, you are correct, I've not climbed there as that type of climbing is not really my style and more importantly the location of that crag really could not be worse, traffic noise and exhaust are just not the kind things I like to be that close to when I go to climb outside, there are just way too many better places to climb around here. as far as cave rock is concerned the tourists & native americans can have it.
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madmax
Jun 28, 2004, 3:50 PM
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In reply to: It isn't that people think that 12a is not "so hard" where people can't get them off, its that people expect those who are climbing at least 12a to understand "why" they are there in the 1st place and have enough respect for that to leave them alone.
That pretty much sums it up.
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jt512
Jun 28, 2004, 5:15 PM
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In reply to: I really think the key is the location: Rifle/AF/Maple/Sinks etc... Yeah w/o a problem. Williamson, NJC, Owens, etc.... Nope. Hmm so I guess the real question is if the area is in California or not :lol: If the answer to that question is yes, then the answer as to whether or not you should leave your draws on is no :mrgreen:
It comes down to the probability of your draws getting stolen, which is related to the proportion of climbers at your crag who are gumbies that think that project draws are booty.
-Jay
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bighead
Jun 28, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #38 of 140
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I once caught a guy rappelling down a route and cleaning the draws. Unfortunately for him I had seen who placed the draws and it wasn't him. I asked him the name of the owner and when he told me to f*#k off I grabbed the ends of his rope and tied them to a tree tight enough that he couldn't continue down :twisted: . I thought about just leaving him like that but after a couple of hours my buddy and I finished climbing and then we called the authorities and they took care of it. Anyone caught stealing gear deserves whatever happens to them in my book.
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jakedatc
Jun 28, 2004, 6:27 PM
Post #39 of 140
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In reply to: what about Rumney? i think all the hard stuff there (china beach, livin astro, ect...) already has preplaced draws, but i've heard that's b/c it's so hard to clean since it's so steep.
Those are fixed draws put up for everyone to use.. i believe they are inspected and possibly replaced every ___ so often i think people have enough respect at waimea to know what should be left alone.. plus not too many people are going to be hopping on 14b/c's just to get a few draws lol there are fixed ones on Orangahang too due to the cleaning issues (which is nice since i want to get on that this week )
for the thread.. i wouldnt leave draws on a 12.. if it's that hard to clean bring someone that can follow it or find another way of getting them ... or end up taking some long swings downcleaning haha wheeeeeeee
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slablizard
Jun 28, 2004, 7:26 PM
Post #40 of 140
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If you'rep planning to came back the next day and redpoint the route you can leave your draws. I don't see what's the problem anyway, if you find them use them or swap them with yours and put them back in place when you're done!
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slablizard
Jun 28, 2004, 8:10 PM
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[quote="asandh"]In reply to: Guess this pretty much sums it up. High end sport climbers are lazy hedonists. Its all about the pleasure and not about the pain ........
Of course it'about the pleasure! You guys are so anal...
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shakylegs
Jun 28, 2004, 8:25 PM
Post #42 of 140
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In reply to: I have this power to place pro on sport routes. I call this pro 'quickdraws' :lol:
Well there's your problem right there: quickdraws aren't pro, ya sport weenie.
Seriously, though, congrats on your first 12. Did your eyes water? Were you weak in the knees afterward? Did you want to fall asleep afterward?
Back on topic: No one's mentioned the effect that UV rays have on nylon (quickdraws). Nothing creeps me out more than to see faded draws on a route.
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caughtinside
Jun 28, 2004, 9:40 PM
Post #44 of 140
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[quote="shakylegs"]In reply to: Seriously, though, congrats on your first 12. Did your eyes water? Were you weak in the knees afterward? Did you want to fall asleep afterward?
No, no, and no. I looked around for females, so I could strut around in my spandex and flex. :P
BTW, thanks! I hooted and cheered, and my hands shook a bit while I threaded the anchor. 8^)
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jt512
Jun 28, 2004, 11:24 PM
Post #45 of 140
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In reply to: In reply to: I'm not a climbing expert but this week i went to maple canyon, UT and somebody left their draws hanging for at least week on a 12.a route that is kind of popular in the area. is that common procedure? would you use those draws or would you rather have yours on route? I don't get this... why would someone leave 10 or 12 draws on a climb for a week?
If you ever work a hard, steep project you'll find out.
In reply to: that's like $200.00 worth of gear. what? they don't think there is anyone else good enough to climb the route and take the draws? :?
No. They don't think there's anyone dishonest enough to.
In reply to: I couldn't but i know 4 or 5 rope-guns that could easily fetch booty off a 5.12 :twisted:
It's not booty, dickhead.
-Jay
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fracture
Jun 29, 2004, 2:05 AM
Post #46 of 140
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If you take someone's project draws, you're a thief, period.
As far as leaving up draws---the grade shouldn't matter. Unfortunately there are (to use Jay's nomenclature) dickheads out there who think that you shouldn't leave draws on anything easier than 5.X (for various values of X), who will potentially steal your gear. It's sad, but climbers can be assholes, so leave gear at your own risk.
I'll leave my draws on stuff if I don't think anyone will take them.
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asandh
Jun 29, 2004, 3:34 AM
Post #47 of 140
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:)
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caughtinside
Jun 29, 2004, 3:48 AM
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In reply to: Can I leave my soiled underwear wrapped around my project draws ? Working a sport route scares me sooo much I need to change often. I do remove stuff left behind by others but I dare you to take mine! geeeeez, you guys need to look in a mirror or something .....
And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the sound of one asshole posting!
(applause)
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caughtinside
Jun 29, 2004, 3:49 AM
Post #49 of 140
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In reply to: If I come across trash on a route I remove it and toss it. I like my own draws, I know where they've been.
Encore!
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deleted
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Jun 29, 2004, 4:02 AM
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import_temporary
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