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glowering
Jul 6, 2004, 2:03 PM
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What do you typically bring for self-rescue on a trad climb?
Just wondering what other ideas are out there.
On a grade II-IV I usually bring:
1 Leaver biner
1 Aluminum rap ring
Two 24" cord slings for prussiks, leaving, etc.
Knife
Headlamp, if it's an afternoon or later climb
My loose biners are ovals
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corpse
Jul 6, 2004, 2:13 PM
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the biners I use to rack my pro are my leaver biners.. For now, I use cheap ol ovals, but I ground the hook off so they don't snag when I pull it off my gear loop. they are color coded so I don't use them for active climbing, but have no problem using them to rap off, and always have at least 4 to use. I also bring a length of 2 of cord for a prussik.
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climbin_moo
Jul 6, 2004, 2:42 PM
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These days when I climb I usually have the second carry an extremely small pack. Like a 2L camelbak.
it includes:
ultralight ranjacket(s) for party
water / lunch for party
on my person
cordalette
1 med length prusik (texas foot prusik sized), small pully on locker
ropeman IIk, ti-block on locker
3 free lockers
small knife in pocket 1
led headlamp in pocket 2
On alpine or hard long routes I'll stick two double length untied nylon runners and two rap rings in the backpack.
I could probably carry less lockers and perhaps another sling. I carry more than most people but the rare times I've had to do self rescue or help another party this stuff has really come in handy and I don't think the weight is an issue. The bulk can be slightly anoying but now I'm used to it.
My favorite ropeman usage was for freeing a stuck rope. I threw a cam in near my feet. Then used put the rope through a pully at the cam, then attached the ropeman via a releasable hitch to the cam. Instant 3:1 which let me pull the rope until it unstuck.
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dingus
Jul 6, 2004, 3:41 PM
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A lighter and a knife. Everything else is optional or situational.
DMT
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sarcat
Jul 6, 2004, 3:57 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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prophylactics
Ok seriously:
12' webbing (yellow)
2 rap rings
small rope grap (prussik)
very small belay device
2 biners
and an assortment of the "10 essentials"
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reno
Jul 6, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: What do you typically bring for self-rescue on a trad climb?
Knife, rap ring, two prusik cords, all on a spare biner.
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brutusofwyde
Jul 6, 2004, 4:33 PM
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For most climbing I carry the following as my self-rescue kit:
Personal gear:
On harness: 2 prussiks on a locker, scratcher on a locker, , small folding blade knife, pearbiner, belay device, chalk bag on a locker with zip compartment containing: 6 benedryl, book of matches in a plastic bag, Ion headlamp and extra battery, and tiny plastic vial containing 10 iodine tablets
epi pen in chalk bag or in pack
in pocket or pack: toilet paper and another book of matches in a doubled 1-quart ziplock bag
clipped to rack, harness or in pack: 0.5 - 1 liter water bottle with clip-in loop, wrapped with 10-20 feet of 2" wide duct tape
helmet, shirt, pants with pockets, knee pads, bandana
Group gear:
1-2 ropes
5-10 shoulder length runners
1-2 double length runners
rack
extra carabiners
2 cordelettes, 6 locking carabiners
For long climbs, a daypack containing: 2 ea. 5 mm ensolite pads that double as stiffener and pading in a pocket in the back panel of the pack
2 space bags
extra food and water
ultra-light rain gear
warm clothes, fleece hat
small roll adhesive tape
3 sanitary napkins in 1 qt. ziplock bag
I consider everything I carry to be a part of my self-rescue kit.
Cordelettes can be untied/cut to be left as rap anchors, can be tied to make improvised aiders, can be used to make prussiks or other friction knots.
Slings, nuts, cams and 'biners can be used as rap anchors. Slings can be used to ascend the rope, and can be used in conjunction with other materials such as sticks, backpack, ensolite, clothing, etc. to construct splints. They can be used as insulation when stuffed under a shirt.
I've even used a #5 camalot as a self-arrest tool.
The lockers for my chalk bag, prussiks, and scratcher can be used to escape the belay and ascend to an injured partner. (the prussiks can in a pinch also be used as runners to reduce rope drag.)
Ropes can be used to ascend and rappel, can be used in pulley systems in conjunction with releasable knots like munter/mule. The can serve as insulation beneath you in a bivy. The ends can be cut off as a last resort to use as rappel anchors.
Standard carabiners, locking carabiners, and pearbiners serve as backup belay/rap devices by using the Munter hitch, carabiner wrap, carabiner brake, or clipped hip belay. Dulfersitz technique can serve without any carabiners whatsoever for low-angle rappels.
Clothing, toilet paper, sanitary napkins, tape, epi-pen, benedryl, ziplock bags all serve as first aid supplies, for everything from an improvised pressure wash for wound irrigation to prevention of severe allergic reactions to pressure bandages, splints and slings. 1-quart ziplock bags can be used for limited dexterity barrier gloves.
Toilet paper and matches can be used for building a bivy fire, sterilizing a knifepoint for splinter removal. Rocks warmed by the bivy fire can be kept against feet, tummy or back to help keep warm until dawn.
Headlamp can be used for routefinding and general visibility after dark, signalling for help after dark, checking for pupil response after dark.
In a self-rescue situation, far more important that any particular piece of equipment, are your knowledge, your skills, your ability to improvise and problem-solve, and ability to stay calm. Coincidentally, these things are the lightest things you could possibly carry with you.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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piton
Jul 6, 2004, 4:42 PM
Post #8 of 35
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my C0ck ring doubles as a rap ring
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shakylegs
Jul 6, 2004, 4:50 PM
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In reply to: my C0ck ring doubles as a rap ring
You must climb on really thin ropes then.
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glowering
Jul 6, 2004, 5:01 PM
Post #11 of 35
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Registered: Oct 13, 2002
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In reply to: tiny plastic vial containing 10 iodine tablets toilet paper
Iodine tablets are a great idea, I have a filter straw but don't bring it unless I have a camelback or backpack, tablets could go in your pocket.
TP is probably better than sacrificing a sock and bringing it along in a zip-lock. 8^)
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corpse
Jul 6, 2004, 5:02 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: my C0ck ring doubles as a rap ring You must climb on really thin ropes then.
6mm cord? :lol:
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sspssp
Jul 6, 2004, 5:22 PM
Post #13 of 35
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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1. Lighter
2. Watch
3. Small knife
4. 2 LED key-chain lights
5. Whistle
6. At least one shoulder length, tied, 9/16" nylon sling
7. 6 feet of 1/2" webbing (I put my chalk bag on it and tie it doubled around my waist)
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vegastradguy
Jul 6, 2004, 5:34 PM
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2 prusiks on a locker clipped to my harness.
In the pack- Knife, FA kit, Headlamp, & rap kit (quicklink & supertape)
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nolan14
Jul 7, 2004, 12:25 AM
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I dont think I have one of those I saw one person on this forum brings watch, what good does that do?
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lstockett
Jul 7, 2004, 2:28 AM
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Great question!
In my pockets/chalkbag:
BD Ion Headlamp (the tiny, two-LED model)
Keychain LED (in the chalkbag, in case I forget the above)
Whistle
Knife
windproof lighter
1 Cliff Bar
Ibuprophen
Benadryl
Hankerchief
Assorted first-aid stuff (need to work on this)
Duct Tape (around the water bottle)
On a 'biner:
2 prussics made from 6mm perlon
About 10' of Nylon Webbing
2 steel Petzl Quicklinks
2 extra oval 'biners
2 Petzl 'emergency' pulleys that fit around an oval 'biner
I always carry two cordalettes and 6-8 locking carabiners for use during the climb. I also try to bring one or two more nylon slings than I think I'll actually need.
The above is the minimum. I carry that even if I'm doing a two-pitch 5.5 at 9:00 am in a busy state park. Depending upon the weather, the length, and the remoteness of the climb I add:
fleece hat
gloves
ultralight rain shell
space blanket
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piton
Jul 7, 2004, 12:51 PM
Post #17 of 35
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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gum, lighter, deck of cards with girlies on the back
to bad rope diameter and c ring or rap ring diameter have no realtion
PTPP & Dr Kodos rule!
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climbhigher
Jul 7, 2004, 7:59 PM
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
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2 small nylon prussiks girth to my gear loop on my harness. That's pretty much all you need along with your climbing gear to get your partner down from the cliff.
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dingus
Jul 7, 2004, 8:03 PM
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In reply to: I dont think I have one of those I saw one person on this forum brings watch, what good does that do?
I'll go out on a limb here and suggest he uses the watch to tell what time it is.
DMT
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shakylegs
Jul 7, 2004, 8:17 PM
Post #20 of 35
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Registered: Aug 20, 2001
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now you're just talking crazy.
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graniteboy
Jul 7, 2004, 11:45 PM
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What goes in the "self rescue kit" is situational; On easy fast stuff, (up to grade IV, 5.9) I might bring only the most important part of the "kit"; my judgement and experience.
On slower, harder stuff, I might bring a set of prussiks on a spare locking biner, a lighter, and a knife. On still longer (or more remote) routes, the first aid kit comes along.
Nonetheless, the most important tool is judgement and experience.
However, On the really tough routes, I always bring a shrubbery.
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gds
Jul 7, 2004, 11:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I dont think I have one of those I saw one person on this forum brings watch, what good does that do? I'll go out on a limb here and suggest he uses the watch to tell what time it is. DMT
Well! you can use it as a rap ring if you double back the band.
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sspssp
Jul 8, 2004, 12:14 AM
Post #23 of 35
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Well, a watch is perhaps not a "rescue item" but it can help from needing a rescue. If you are racing darkness, or afternoon thunderclouds, it can let you know whether you need to start moving faster, or perhaps start retreating.
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dingus
Jul 8, 2004, 12:36 AM
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In reply to: Well, a watch is perhaps not a "rescue item" but it can help from needing a rescue. If you are racing darkness, or afternoon thunderclouds, it can let you know whether you need to start moving faster, or perhaps start retreating.
DO I HAVE TO DO EVERYTHING AROUND HERE???
Without a watch, how will you know it's TIME to call for a rescue?
Huh?
HUH???!!!!!1111
DMT
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rjavery10
Jul 8, 2004, 3:46 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Well, a watch is perhaps not a "rescue item" but it can help from needing a rescue. If you are racing darkness, or afternoon thunderclouds, it can let you know whether you need to start moving faster, or perhaps start retreating. DO I HAVE TO DO EVERYTHING AROUND HERE??? Without a watch, how will you know it's TIME to call for a rescue? Huh? HUH???!!!!!1111 DMT
You don't need a watch, you can just call for help when you start looking at your partner as a food source.
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