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climb_plastic
Aug 26, 2004, 6:47 PM
Post #101 of 106
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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In reply to: On steep climbs where swinging into the wall is a concern. You do want to keep some slack in the system, and then, you do want to do a dynamic belay...
Exactly... The slack is to reduce the pendulum effect on an overhang and the dynamic belay is to reduce the shock that the extra slack would put on the system.
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outdoorclimber
Aug 26, 2004, 11:21 PM
Post #102 of 106
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Registered: Nov 4, 2003
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For all y'all who say it's impossible to give a dynamic belay, I have one sentence. The ropes are dynamic ropes, so there will ALWAYS, with dynamic ropes, have some type of dynamic belay attached to the belay.
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killclimbz
Aug 26, 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #103 of 106
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Registered: May 6, 2000
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In reply to: In reply to: On steep climbs where swinging into the wall is a concern. You do want to keep some slack in the system, and then, you do want to do a dynamic belay... Exactly... The slack is to reduce the pendulum effect on an overhang and the dynamic belay is to reduce the shock that the extra slack would put on the system.
How much extra slack are you talking about? A small loop in the rope is all that is needed. It's not going to be a serious increase of forces. As stated before the rope dynamic. Are you using a static line? Where the hell do you get your information?
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climb_plastic
Aug 27, 2004, 1:03 AM
Post #104 of 106
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
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Good point. Most of the time a dynamic belay isn't absolutely necessary because the fall won't generate enough shock to break the system....and some conditions you shouldn't even do a dynamic belay. It's just nice to do it whenever you can for the sake of the climber's balls.
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jt512
Aug 27, 2004, 3:18 AM
Post #105 of 106
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: Good point. Most of the time a dynamic belay isn't absolutely necessary because the fall won't generate enough shock to break the system....and some conditions you shouldn't even do a dynamic belay. It's just nice to do it whenever you can for the sake of the climber's balls.
Depends what you mean by "the system." If the system includes the climbers ankles, and the route is steep, then a dynamic belay is needed.
-Jay
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kalcario
Aug 27, 2004, 4:24 AM
Post #106 of 106
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*Sorry, but this is a complete and dangerous misunderstanding of how to protect a leader from penduluming into the rock. A slack belay increases the fall distance in proportion to the amount of extra rope out, so the fall factor, and also the impact forces, stay the same. So you let your leader fall farther, with absolutely no benefit in terms of reducing impact forces or slowing a swing.*
No. When it's overhanging, the farther you fall, the farther away the wall is at the end of the fall. The only thing that's going to pull you into the wall is if the rope's tight, which creates the pendulum effect, and which also means you fall a shorter distance and the wall is closer. This is not theory - this is what I do most weekends, either taking that fall myself or belaying it. If I was wrong in feeding out or having extra slack I would have broken my own and other's bones many times over, and my 30 year safety record is spotless. I think maybe you don't climb or belay on steep stuff (30 degrees past vert, 90 being vert) very much, no?
Of course, this whole equation changes when you're still close enough to the ground where extra slack might cause a groundfall, but usually once you're past 35' it doesn't matter.
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