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Your most memorable highball problem
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krga20


Sep 2, 2004, 5:28 AM
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Your most memorable highball problem
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I've done a few that come to mind in black mtn. and J-tree. But falling off slashface up high before the better holds were within reach was my most memorable...I got by with only a rolled ankle and walked with a lip for a few days.


pbjosh


Sep 2, 2004, 5:51 AM
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With pads, Slashface shouldn't be too bad, the difficulties are done before you get too high...

Some of the more memorable / fun highballs (not selected for fright factor, but for fun factor) -

Where Boneheads Dare
Big Greenie
Slashface
Bettie Joe Yablonski
The Melon Patch
Lots of stuff in Bishop

This winter I'll finally have to do White Rastafarian... never been on it, don't want to not flash it.


curt


Sep 2, 2004, 5:51 AM
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In reply to:
I've done a few that come to mind in black mtn. and J-tree. But falling off slashface up high before the better holds were within reach was my most memorable...I got by with only a rolled ankle and walked with a lip for a few days.

How the hell did you do that? After the crux, which is low down, the holds just keep getting better and better until you get to the top--where there is a bit of a rounded top out.

Curt


curt


Sep 2, 2004, 5:53 AM
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In reply to:
With pads, Slashface shouldn't be too bad, the difficulties are done before you get too high...

Some of the more memorable / fun highballs (not selected for fright factor, but for fun factor) -

Where Boneheads Dare
Big Greenie
Slashface
Bettie Joe Yablonski
The Melon Patch
Lots of stuff in Bishop

This winter I'll finally have to do White Rastafarian... never been on it, don't want to not flash it.

Don't forget to do Planet X.

Curt


sandbag


Sep 2, 2004, 5:59 AM
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Any of the Gill problems at Rotary Park at Horsetooth Resevoir, they all finsh 15-35ft above the ground:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=33903

and

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=23241

Both finish well over 30ft up, no pads, no need from that height.


alpnclmbr1


Sep 2, 2004, 5:59 AM
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White Rastafarian was probably my first highball.

Copper Penny with a picnic bench spot

High Noon

Where Boneheads/Rugheads Dare are two of the most memorable problems that I have ever done.

Right Donkey Show was pretty fun as well


These are among the most memorable climbs that I have done in any style. Highballs rock.


pbjosh


Sep 2, 2004, 6:03 AM
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I have a number of friends who want to do Planet X as well. While I'm not going to discredit or knock the back in the day sans-pads sends, I'm also going to try to avoid killing myself or breaking my ankles, so we're planning on getting everyone and numerous pads together for a Planet X day. The key to the plan, however, is bringing Jimmy to spot. Jimmy is stronger than f*ckall and weighs 220. The real problem with the plan, as far as I can see it, is who the f*ck is going to spot Jimmy? Hopefully he'll flash it, he should.


boz84


Sep 2, 2004, 7:03 PM
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Havent done too much highballing, but starting to get into it.
Its definitely a whole new experience.

I did a couple problems at my friends college, Columbia College, at the Arboretum that ended probably 20-25 feet over hard slabs. Woulda been nice to not have forgotten my crashpad, but sometimes I just get these crazy ideas in my head, and once they are there....


alpinerock


Sep 2, 2004, 9:32 PM
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Most memorable for me, fear factor would have to "Big Guy" in LCC, its about 30 feet tall and the fall is into a swamp, its only V3 but count the mental factor in there and those V3 moves start feeling shaky...

The highball problem that i've paid the most for would be the dean problem, also up LCC. I've gotten 3 concussions on it(one actually knocked me out for around 5 minutes) sprained my ankle twice, got cut to the bone on 4 of my knuckles, and now i think i might have torn a tendon yesterday on it, i'm about to leave for the doctors right now to see whats up.... :evil:


dingus


Sep 2, 2004, 9:57 PM
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Would have to be this one:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=5263

Just kidding!!! (sort of, it WAS quite memorable)

These won't mean anything to anyone save my Bro's Angus and Burl, so I'll save you the names, but I have done most of em, numerous times. A couple of them, well sirs, I lack the cojones to follow my friend Angus over certain terrain.

http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com/.../Bouldering_Page.htm

Just click on the BULL! A few of them are in there. All but one are pics of Angus or my kids though. None of them can be trusted with a freaking camera.

Come to Knights Ferry some day! I'll show you around. I heard the Verm was poking around there... secret will be outted soon.

Cheers
DMT


muncher


Sep 2, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Good to see a bit of commitment there mate. Nothing like returning for some more punishment, again and again. WHo knows, maybe after you have been concussed a few more times you will have lowered your brain power enough to send it. :D

I really can't think of any problems I have done that deserve true highball status. Plenty have been high but when the crux is down low and the top section is juggy it is hardly in the style of a true highball where the crux is way off the deck.

A problem I did a while back that was reasonably high put me out of action for a couple of days due to comming off after the crux , twice, duh. Fu@#ed my anke up pretty good. Was back there the next weekend with an extra pad and lots of strapping. Once I stuck the crux there was no way I was falling off this time. Everything went really smoothly, just can't figure out why it gave me so much grief the time before.


scubasnyder


Sep 2, 2004, 10:13 PM
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Haycock Mountain
The broiler V2
Dont Fall Please V1
3-Star V1


madmax


Sep 2, 2004, 10:31 PM
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Sea Spot Run in Hueco is pretty exciting. The hardest moves are close to the end, and then manteling into the small hueco at the top is when Elvis usually enters the building. I only managed to pull it off because four pads (or more, perhaps) lessened the fear of impact.


mattmax45


Sep 4, 2004, 7:15 PM
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The most memorable highballs,


three of them that come to mind, they're medium grade problems with a crux 3/4 of the way up with large throw, two of them at the same area have a horrible ankle leg breaker landing and the other soft grass, go figure, but all are very cool and kinda freaky. Later, Matt. :D


no_grain


Sep 4, 2004, 9:14 PM
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Mortal Kombat at HP 40.

This is probably just entering highball territory, but its an amazing climb that just gets harder the higher you go.


elstifster


Sep 4, 2004, 9:27 PM
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Mortal Combat is a bad ass problem. It isn't really a highball, but it has some nasty fall potenial. Pope in a cowboy hat beside it is fun too. I've seen some nasty falls off it.


walllizzard


Sep 9, 2004, 2:41 AM
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well ther are so many here in South Central PA. My two favorite are Pyramid V1 at GS great slab 20-25 ft. and Highball at Gretna I believe around a V4 25-30 ft, still working on that one.


eddie_munster


Sep 10, 2004, 7:04 AM
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tall cool red one @ hueco, winter '95.


edge


Sep 10, 2004, 1:47 PM
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Generator crack in the Valley was my first big highball, and one of the most memorable.


clarki


Sep 10, 2004, 2:01 PM
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A direct topout version of a problem called Johnny Quest in Asheboro, NC. Awsome desperate granite sloper-slapping finish!


sammmy


Sep 13, 2004, 2:10 PM
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most memorable highball:
the horn (v2) blowing rock boulders, nc. great line, always eyed it as i was learning to climb, then a few months later sent it. about twenty+ feet, crimpy line to dyno to the horn with an awkward topout. sent three years ago twice but have not repeated.


tradmanclimbs


Sep 13, 2004, 2:40 PM
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Odels gully Mt washington Nh Only NEI3 but memorable because my buddy came off just before the last ice bulge. he went 300+ft and dissapeared down a chute. i figured he was toast and that made pulling the last bulge and then doing the rock traverse into south gully pretty interesting :shock:


climberzrule


Sep 22, 2004, 4:52 PM
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Let's see.....
I fell off the top of White Rasta,
Did UP 40 without a pad (what's the point anyway!),
MISSED the pad 5 outa 6 times on Planet X,
Waltzed the Funktion,
Pinched the Overhang without a Wilford spot,
and got scored with Betty Jo,
But none of these has ANYTHING on the Center X-man problem in Billings, MT......SCAREEE.
If your ever in town give it a shot. It's still waiting a second ascent.


stinkypete


Sep 22, 2004, 9:55 PM
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some crack on the hidden valley campsite side of intersection rock...I was climbing with some guys i didn't know who were really good and I got caught up in the gusto so I started climbing the crack...near the top I was bringing my foot up and I got my knee caught because I had a funsaver in my cargo pants pocket...I shook for a second when I realized I was way up and the guys said "are you alright, I don't want to see anyone die today" I said "I'm cool"...renegotiated and topped out...I learned alot that day...If anyone there saw it I apologize for being a tourist! Stupidity can humble!


Partner coldclimb


Sep 23, 2004, 9:14 AM
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Nothing hard by any means, but it sure as heck was FUN! I believe the route is trad protectable and goes at 5.7, but it IS on a boulder.

http://www.morffed.com/climb/temp/DSCF2515.JPG


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