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sublimeclimb


Sep 15, 2004, 3:34 PM
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I have lived quite happily in MA for most of my life, and have come to enjoy the climbing within this region. Rumney, Gunks, Lincoln Woods, and many others are all basically within driving range.
But alas! I am probably hoofing it for grad school next year. I am applying to schools in CA, CO, Indiana, Ohio (!), Illinois, and North Carolina. I obviously know that CA and CO are close to some awesome climbing, but I am at a loss for the others.
So here is your chance to gush about your favorite local crag! If any of you live in any of the places listed above (or anwhere else, for that matter... I could always add a school...) I would love to hear your input. Climbing has become a huge part of my life and it will undoubtedly play a role in my final decision for grad school. Thanks for the input...
-Lee


ulfi


Sep 15, 2004, 3:46 PM
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Why not try Europe??? The South of France can be beautiful!!!

But also England is nice for climbing. For me personally a little wet.

If you enjoy long routes and good snowboarding in winter, try Switzerland or Austria.

Ulf


thedus


Sep 15, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Well you're spot on about CA and CO. Ohio isn't too far from the New River Gorge in West Virginia, and I'm sure there are other crags that aren't much farther. Whether the climbing is good in North Carolina depends on which side of the state you're in. NC east of, say, Greensboro is a climber's worst nightmare - hours to the nearest crag. However, Western NC (think Asheville) is in the middle of some truly amazing areas (check the routes DB as there are far too many to list here). Can't help you with the "I" states, but my (uninformed) opinion is that they just wouldn't be worth it, especially when compared with the others.


dingus


Sep 15, 2004, 4:01 PM
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A grad student should be able to figure this out pretty quickly. A look at rc.com's route database will absolutely set the bar. Look at the number of climbing areas and routes for each of your states and factor that into your choice. But I'm guessing you know the complete score going in?

One thing: California is a B-I-G place. You could end up a long way from the nearest climbing unless you're paying attention. What campus?

DMT


az_biner


Sep 15, 2004, 4:07 PM
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NC has lots of great climbing...and universities. check out wake forest university in winston salem..great school...moores wall and pilot 15 miles away..stone mtn 1 hr...also appalachian state university in boone...close to awesome bouldering...ship rock, linville gorge, table rock, nc wall...unc-asheville...whitesides (scary)..rumbling bald..90 miles to boone.....also western carolina in in culowhee (sp?)...but as the mentioned above, if you chose a school east of greensboro (unc-g)...it will be lots of driving to climb. although, unc and duke aren't that bad of a drive up to pilot mtn and moores wall...happy hunting..hope you find the right school.


storer


Sep 15, 2004, 4:14 PM
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Where in Ohio? I live on the East side of Cleveland. We have the Cleveland Rock Gym and Appalachia Outfitters for Indoor rock gyms. There is Whipps Ledges about 45 minutes South East of Cleveland. There isn't any lead climbing due to the poor sandstone, but it still fun. A lot of people go to the New River Gourge in WV or the Red River Gourge in Kentucky on a long weekend. Feel free to e-mail me with any more questions.


Steve


sublimeclimb


Sep 15, 2004, 4:17 PM
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thanks for the input... I have checked out the rc.com database but unless I look at every crag I dont get a good sense of the quality or size of the areas. I figured a local's opinion would go a lot farther.
As for schools, There is UNC Chapel Hill, Chicago, Bloomington Indiana, Ohio State (not sure where it is...), Boulder CO, and the UC's (San Diego, LA, Davis, Santa Cruz, Berkeley). I'm sure it would be a blast to go to a different country, but when there is so much of my own that I havent seen, I feel obliged to explore here first.


Partner cracklover


Sep 15, 2004, 4:26 PM
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A grad student should be able to figure this out pretty quickly. A look at rc.com's route database will absolutely set the bar. Look at the number of climbing areas and routes for each of your states and factor that into your choice.

Kinda sorta. How would you rate these six states: Massachusetts (small stuff), New York (Daks, Gunks), Wyoming (Wind River, Devils Tower), New Hampshire (Cathedral/Whitehorse, Rumney, Cannon) , North Carolina, and Pennsylvania?

Here's what the routes DB says:

Pennsylvania 180
Massachusetts 74
New Hampshire 72
New York 64
North Carolina 65
Wyoming 63

Cheers,

GO


dingus


Sep 15, 2004, 4:35 PM
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In reply to:
A grad student should be able to figure this out pretty quickly. A look at rc.com's route database will absolutely set the bar. Look at the number of climbing areas and routes for each of your states and factor that into your choice.

Kinda sorta. How would you rate these six states: Massachusetts (small stuff), New York (Daks, Gunks), Wyoming (Wind River, Devils Tower), New Hampshire (Cathedral/Whitehorse, Rumney, Cannon) , North Carolina, and Pennsylvania?

Here's what the routes DB says:

Pennsylvania 180
Massachusetts 74
New Hampshire 72
New York 64
North Carolina 65
Wyoming 63

Cheers,

GO

Hmmm, interesting. So much for that theory. I'd chuck that shit and head to Wyoming bro, wouldn't even look back.

Geez, as a former easterner, I cannot envision the circumstances that would convince me to relocate east of the Mississippi.

Cheers
DMT


dingus


Sep 15, 2004, 4:36 PM
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In reply to:
A grad student should be able to figure this out pretty quickly. A look at rc.com's route database will absolutely set the bar. Look at the number of climbing areas and routes for each of your states and factor that into your choice.

Kinda sorta. How would you rate these six states: Massachusetts (small stuff), New York (Daks, Gunks), Wyoming (Wind River, Devils Tower), New Hampshire (Cathedral/Whitehorse, Rumney, Cannon) , North Carolina, and Pennsylvania?

Here's what the routes DB says:

Pennsylvania 180
Massachusetts 74
New Hampshire 72
New York 64
North Carolina 65
Wyoming 63

Cheers,

GO

Hmmm, interesting. So much for that theory. I'd chuck that shit and head to Wyoming bro, wouldn't even look back.

Geez, as a former easterner, I cannot envision the circumstances that would convince me to relocate east of the Mississippi.

Cheers
DMT


numbnut


Sep 15, 2004, 4:38 PM
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Its tough to beat the front rangeof CO for both a selection of schools to choose from and limitless climbs and climbing partners. We are spoiled. The desert is close, Wyoming is close, everything else is literally in the backyard. The amount and quality of climbing here is overwhelming.


sharpie


Sep 15, 2004, 5:18 PM
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http://www.batte.org/...es/rccom/rockies.gif We're #1.


fortfun


Sep 15, 2004, 9:19 PM
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Live in CO (front range) and still make the drive to Utah. Hit Utah in the route data base and read the description. a Hell!

I once read in the guide book Rock-N-Road that Utah deserved a big large stamp on the entire state when it came to identifying climbing areas. With some of the highest quality canyons, cliffs, boulders, and towers in the world, Utahans have so much rock to choose from that many quality areas, which would be the best crag available in other states, goes untouched and undeveloped. There's simply to much to choose from already.

It is closer to populated areas than stuff in CO (makes for good use of a few free hrs when the drive is 5 min)

Check the schools there U of U or USU just not BYU!


musicman


Sep 15, 2004, 9:27 PM
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don't know how good the grad schools are out here in Utah, but the climbing is great, you can find a place to climb just about anywhere, Granite, Limestone, Quartzite, whatever Maple is...conglomerate, and Sandstone! its great!

and as far as the routes database goes...

Utah :arrow: 195


climbsomething


Sep 15, 2004, 9:36 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
A grad student should be able to figure this out pretty quickly. A look at rc.com's route database will absolutely set the bar. Look at the number of climbing areas and routes for each of your states and factor that into your choice.

Kinda sorta. How would you rate these six states: Massachusetts (small stuff), New York (Daks, Gunks), Wyoming (Wind River, Devils Tower), New Hampshire (Cathedral/Whitehorse, Rumney, Cannon) , North Carolina, and Pennsylvania?

Here's what the routes DB says:

Pennsylvania 180
Massachusetts 74
New Hampshire 72
New York 64
North Carolina 65
Wyoming 63

Cheers,

GO
I'm not diggin' this logic. Individual state prejudices aside, there's quality over quantity as well as how extensive the individual areas are (5 small toprope crags with 25 routes apiece versus one whole Gunks), and how many active users on this site contribute to their particular state. For example, the PA contingent is pretty big here, and I'd assume they'd just naturally like to talk up every last one of their rocks. The WY crew is comparatively small, or at least quiet.

So, what'm saying is, the RC.com DB may be a really good resource overall, but isn't necessarily totally authoritative...


mother_sheep


Sep 15, 2004, 9:37 PM
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I second that emotion!!!


watchme


Sep 15, 2004, 9:37 PM
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Wyoming sucks, especially up here in Cody. :wink:

UW down in Laramie would be cool. Vedauwoo in your backyard.

MSU in Bozeman is where I went to grad school. Nice place to live with some nice climbing nearby. Killer skiing. Good WW boating. Great fishing. Oh, and a very good mathematics department.


climbsomething


Sep 15, 2004, 9:41 PM
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I second that emotion!!!
heh. I am such a wannabe. I am eyeballing CU for grad school if I can ever get my slacker ass out of here, and, well, assuming I cease to be a slacker.

(truth is, I just want a Subaru Outback, organic fruit, a golden retriever, and a lot of sinew ;) )


mother_sheep


Sep 15, 2004, 9:44 PM
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In reply to:

I second that emotion!!!
heh. I am such a wannabe. I am eyeballing CU for grad school if I can ever get my slacker ass out of here, and, well, assuming I cease to be a slacker.

(truth is, I just want a Subaru Outback, organic fruit, a golden retriever, and a lot of sinew ;) )


SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


joshy8200


Sep 15, 2004, 9:45 PM
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I go to school at UNC-Ch. Chapel Hill is not a bad location at all for climbing. The gym on campus is well run and a good place to train. There is also a good group of people to meet and climb with. You also have the community center wall, which also has excellent routes and only costs $3 a trip. Of lesser importance are gyms in Durham and Raleigh...I've only been to the one in Durham once and never to the one in Raleigh. But they are there if you are into checking out the local gym scene.

On the outdoor scene, as said before there is a good group of climbers that are outside most weekends from UNC. Pilot Mtn is about 1.3hrs away. It features good top-roping/a couple of good sport routes and is excellent for winter climbing. Sauratown is also about 1.3hrs away. It is another EXCELLENT winter climbing spot. There are a lot of sport routes in the 5.9-5.11 range and a handfull of good trad climbs. Moores Wall is about 1.5 hours away. It is one of the coolest trad crags in the southeast. It also has a little bit of bouldering. Then you have Stone Mtn about 1.7hrs away. Another good winter climbing place, with moderate slabby trad leads.

Further destinations in NC are Boone: 3hrs featuring Grandmother Boulders, Hound Ears, and Ship Rock.
Asheville: 3.5hrs featuring Linville Gorge, Rumbling Bald, Looking Glass

New River Gorge: 6.3hrs
Red River Gorge: ~6.8hrs

I'm a big fan of NC climbing and the location of Chapel Hill. The mountains are close....and the beach isn't far away either.


buckmanriver


Sep 15, 2004, 9:56 PM
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colorado is the best
I live in parker Colorado. I climb on the chaparral high school wall 2 hours a day and for free. During school so it is sweet I get to climb for 2 out of the 7 classes a day. We have Castle wood Canyon 20mints away Garden of the Gods 40 mint a day, bolder canyon 45 mints away, south plat canyon 45 mints away, and that is just the closest places to climb. There is climbing all over Colorado.


killclimbz


Sep 15, 2004, 10:00 PM
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Colorado sucks, everyone knows California has bigger walls, longer routes, splitter granite cracks. Why do you think all the tough guy Colorado climbers wrote about marathon driving sessions to get to Yosemite for just a few days?
Everything here is rinky dink compared.
If you did decide to come here you might find a few things to keep you entertained for a week or two.


Partner cracklover


Sep 16, 2004, 2:17 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
A grad student should be able to figure this out pretty quickly. A look at rc.com's route database will absolutely set the bar. Look at the number of climbing areas and routes for each of your states and factor that into your choice.

Kinda sorta. How would you rate these six states: Massachusetts (small stuff), New York (Daks, Gunks), Wyoming (Wind River, Devils Tower), New Hampshire (Cathedral/Whitehorse, Rumney, Cannon) , North Carolina, and Pennsylvania?

Here's what the routes DB says:

Pennsylvania 180
Massachusetts 74
New Hampshire 72
New York 64
North Carolina 65
Wyoming 63

Cheers,

GO
I'm not diggin' this logic. Individual state prejudices aside, there's quality over quantity as well as how extensive the individual areas are (5 small toprope crags with 25 routes apiece versus one whole Gunks), and how many active users on this site contribute to their particular state. For example, the PA contingent is pretty big here, and I'd assume they'd just naturally like to talk up every last one of their rocks. The WY crew is comparatively small, or at least quiet.

So, what'm saying is, the RC.com DB may be a really good resource overall, but isn't necessarily totally authoritative...

Slow on the uptake today, are we? ;) That was my point!

Much as I love Massachusetts (live here), it doesn't hold a candle to New Hampshire, NY, NC, or WY! And Pennsylvania over all of them? Just shows you you can't judge a state by how many areas are listed in the rc.com RDB.

GO


hosebeats


Sep 16, 2004, 3:44 AM
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F all that. New Mexico is where it is at for unexplored walls. Just along I-40, right outside of Albuquerque is a 15 mile long, 300ft high sandstone cliff. No one has even attempted to climb it. Sandia, Palomas Peak, U-Mound, Santa Fe, Enchanted tower, Cochti Mesa, Diablo Canyon, just about everything and anything you want.

But its all kind of remote. No people around, tons of stuff to be explored, limitless amounts of open space.


Oh, and the San Diego area is really nice as well. J-Tree, Yos, blah, blah, blah..


ryanpfleger


Sep 16, 2004, 4:23 AM
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I go to school at UNC-Ch. Chapel Hill is not a bad location at all for climbing. The gym on campus is well run and a good place to train. There is also a good group of people to meet and climb with. You also have the community center wall, which also has excellent routes and only costs $3 a trip. Of lesser importance are gyms in Durham and Raleigh...I've only been to the one in Durham once and never to the one in Raleigh. But they are there if you are into checking out the local gym scene.

When half the post is describing the climbing gym scene in NC, that pretty much rules it out, doesn't it? LOL.

I'm in Boise and its not bad, at least if you asked me about the climbing I wouldn't talk about the local gyms. Boise State doesn't have many grad programs though. Seriously, if I were going to move somewhere based on the climbing, I would head to Salt Lake City, Utah, or the vicinity. The U of U is a great school (grad school to study what?). And the climbing is top notch. Nearly every sort of climbing you could ask for is close by. The furthest genre (does climbing have genres?) away is Zion's bigwalls. The only drawback is the conservative religious culture. Honestly though, around the U the scene isn't so terrible. I am a recovering Mormon, so I have to be careful around there, but if you can handle an ultra conservative culture it should be no problem.

Just my two bits.

Ryan

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