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5.15c
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Sep 21, 2004, 11:06 PM
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does anyone have any training suggestions for someone stuck in the mid (5.11) climbing level :?: . i've just finished a 5.11c project and am hoping to climb a 5.12 soon, even a 5.12a.
anything would be helpful
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hurdles
Sep 21, 2004, 11:13 PM
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your names says 5.15c though??
anyways, I can't help with 5.12s because I'm not at that level, and probably never will be... but I have found that the best way to climb grades is to climb several grades below the grade you want to move up to, then try some of that grade.
(how many times can you say grade in a sentence...??)
ie, if I wanted to climb 5.15d, I would climb several 5.15b's and 5.15c's, then work on a 5.15d.
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2004, 11:16 PM
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Find a 12a that suits your climbing style and work it. Do it on TR, give it lead attempts. If you can climb 11c you're not so far away. Get your beta down, and send. 8^)
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5.15c
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Sep 21, 2004, 11:25 PM
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:D thanks everyone, great ideas. i kinda had that thought but i wanted to see everyone's opinion about what works. more ideas would be appreciated. again, thanx :!:
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fracture
Sep 21, 2004, 11:43 PM
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Why would he do that?
Assuming it's a well-protected sport route, particularly at that grade, there's usually no good reason to toprope it.
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2004, 11:47 PM
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I agree with you somewhat fracture. I like to work out sequences on lead. But if the crux is between bolts, you might flame out and not be able to finish the climb. If you've got a stick clip, no prob.
Besides, if he struggles with the climb, he'll beat the crap out of his rope taking numerous short falls onto the same spot on the rope.
Plus, on TR, he won't have to rework some sequences if he falls.
But I do think leading is the best way to work a route for the most part.
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slablizard
Sep 21, 2004, 11:56 PM
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Exactly. Lot of stress on the rope, on the belayer and on the climber. Try it on TR, when you "have it" (maybe 2 tries.. until you can at least do the cruxes) start trying to lead it.
Of course if you can do more than half of it at the first try on TR drop down rest and start on lead!
In reply to: Besides, if he struggles with the climb, he'll beat the crap out of his rope taking numerous short falls onto the same spot on the rope. Plus, on TR, he won't have to rework some sequences if he falls. |
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fracture
Sep 21, 2004, 11:56 PM
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In reply to: I agree with you somewhat fracture. I like to work out sequences on lead. But if the crux is between bolts, you might flame out and not be able to finish the climb. If you've got a stick clip, no prob.
On a sport route? Usually the bolts aren't far enough apart for you to get pumped climbing to a crux in between them (there are exceptions, of course). And usually you get a bolt right before the crux.
Often, if there's no easy clipping stance, there'll be some working bolts in for you to dog on to work the crux that are intended to be skipped on a redpoint attempt.
In reply to: Besides, if he struggles with the climb, he'll beat the crap out of his rope taking numerous short falls onto the same spot on the rope.
This is a non-issue with modern ropes.
In reply to: Plus, on TR, he won't have to rework some sequences if he falls.
Again, depends. But usually on TR on a hard sport route, you just swing out away from the wall when you fall, and are unable to rework the same sequence again easily. Often it can take far more energy to try to swing in and latch a bolt/draw than it would to do a couple moves over.
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overlord
Sep 22, 2004, 10:49 AM
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read a good book about training (training for climbing, performance rock climbing) and see if you can pick something up.
and dont get caught into number chasing. it takes the fun out of your life and climbing.
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mensrae
Sep 22, 2004, 11:34 AM
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you have to work it. my first 12 took me about 4 months. the climb was about 30 feet tall. when i wasnt paying attention in high school i would sketch the climb. i had each hold and sequence memorized.
get on the climb and try it. you will fail. maybe next time you get a foot higher. learn what sequences work and what dont. just keep trying at it.
or you can try another way...
YOU CANT CLIMB 5.12? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
ok, now think of me when youre pumped.
good luck, keep us posted
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 22, 2004, 12:22 PM
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About a year ago, I posted almost the same thing. It had some pretty good info.
http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43979&highlight=
As for me, I have only led one 12 so far and it was in a gym, so I am not in that category yet. But considering, that you seem to be almost there, you are probably pretty strong with decent technique. Focus on your technique for a while and try to critisize everything. Try to figure out what your weaknesses are, even if you didn't consider them a weakness before. The higher up you go in grades, it's the smaller things that count, i.e. how quickly or slowly you do different sections, how your breathing, your clippin technique. Your body position when you clip.
Also, always try to visualize the climb. Maybe not the whole climb at once, but try to stay a few moves ahead, so that you have a good idea of what to do when you get there, rather than one move at a time.
Hope this helps, and I understand where you are at.
Josh
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