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mtngypsy
May 23, 2002, 9:07 PM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2002
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Who the heck placed bolts on Chained Lighting. I haven't seen them yet but I have heard about them.
This is a long standing traditional lead with 30 years of history and see's very regular ascents. I would guess 100+ times a summer. What kind of bucket brain would put bolts on it.
The next time I'm at the Kelowna Crags these bolts will be removed if they have not already been. I will gladly return the hangers to the owner if I know who he is. I don't promise I won't tell him were to stick them though.
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kelownaclimber
May 23, 2002, 10:29 PM
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John,
At least I am assuming you are John....The bolt was placed by Tyler and has been removed.The second bolt is also a little close for my liking but at least is off the old route.It would have been nice to see this line trend off of Black Lung but he put a direct line in immediately to the left of Black Lung starting up Lightning Roof and going over the small roof at the first traverse.
Mike
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mtngypsy
May 24, 2002, 1:42 AM
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Your right it's me.
Whats up with this guy. I have always liked Tyler but I'm getting a little sick of hearing about his tactics. When's he going to grow up and behave like a responsible climber. Many people have politely told him to stop the chipping and he did'nt listen. Now he seems to have moved on, I guess polite does not work with him, maybe it's time the local climbing community changed their tactics.
There are a couple of other people I have talked to who are ready to remove any bolts that can be reached while climbing the crack. I have to say I with them on that.
It's not like we are running out of rock to develop. The only shortage we have in the Okanagan is good crack lines that take good gear. It seems a few climbers see fit to wreck these few lines for the rest of us. I don't get it.
Thanks for the response Mike.
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rrrADAM
May 24, 2002, 2:02 AM
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Selfcentered people will always do as they wish regardless of the rational and logical arguments made opposing what they think is right.
Unfortunately, we all must suffer the consequences brought on us by those who cannot act responsibly.
I hope this behavior does not create access issues for you up North as it has for us in the States.
If this guy cannot understand the logic here, then introduce him to "the ambassador of kick your ass-ador". When he looks in the mirror every morning, and sees teeth missing, he might remember that what he is doing is not viewed upon as acceptable behavior by the community at large.
rrrADAM
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mtngypsy
May 24, 2002, 2:46 AM
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Polite confrontation is a way of life in Canada. Unfortunatly it's not very effective some times, hench this situation.
This particular area is a local park and any kind of bolting war is sure to become an issue. I don't know what the answer is, but something has to give.
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kelownaclimber
May 24, 2002, 1:45 PM
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Maybe it's time to teach a few people I can think of around here that bolting gear routes is simply not acceptable.I can think of a few lines that could be chopped.I recently had a discussion with one of the people responsible for a couple of them.I asked him why he had to lower the climb to his level.He didn't seem to understand that by adding bolts to a hard to protect crack you are infact altering the nature of the climb.He used to be my main climbing partner,but with his ethical stances or lack thereof,him and I seem to climb less and less together.We can not condone this behaviour any longer.There are plenty of face climbs here to bolt,hell if it has 10 bolts and one piece of gear,I don't mind adding a bolt to make it all sport,but let's leave the gear routes alone.The arguement that the crack is chossy and doesn't take good gear or everything else is bolted is wearing very thin!!!I think it may be time to free some of these lines that have been forced into submission by selfcentered ego climbers.Crowbar and epoxy anyone????
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crazywacky
May 24, 2002, 3:12 PM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
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Call me "new", but I've never had to actually remove a bolt before. And I have a question..
Instead of using a crowbar, wouldn't it be easier to use wrench, or maybe a break-over bar with a cheater pipe? That way, you remove all the pieces, and not just the part sticking out of the rock.
I understand if the bolts are old, and have "bonded" with age, but if they are still pretty shiney, why not use that same type of tools they went in with?
Thanks,
Scott
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jgorris
May 24, 2002, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2002
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...When's he going to grow up and behave like a responsible climber. Many people have politely told him to stop the chipping and he did'nt listen...
Chipper and retro-bolter all in one package. What a loser. Politeness is not a language some people respond to. Sounds like this jackoff is one of those types.
Criminal retro-bolting is one thing, but chipping could actually get a crag shutdown. I don't need or want to get along with this type of vandal. Treat me good and I'll treat you better-- close a crag and I'll treat you real bad.
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