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basecamp
Sep 30, 2004, 1:14 PM
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I am just curious, I have yet to climb at Devil's lake and I was thinking of making a road trip 2nd weekend in october... will that be too late? For those of you native's to Devil's lake area when is the normal end of season for ya?
Also does anybody have any quality sport routes 5.6 - 5.8+ they can recommend?
Thanks in advance!!
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sync
Sep 30, 2004, 1:18 PM
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Last October, I went to Devil's Lake to climb on three weekends, with temperatures ranging from the 50s to the 70s. I even went once in November. So you never know.
I'm hoping the second week in October will be good - I still want to get more climbing in this year!
And there are no sport routes at Devil's Lake, so I can't recommend any to you.
cheers,
sync
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imnotclever
Sep 30, 2004, 1:21 PM
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Last year I was climbing there the last week in December. It was a beautiful day, 25° and sunny. The rock even felt warm or not too cold.
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drrock
Sep 30, 2004, 1:22 PM
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Halfway to Devils Lake for you (coming from Sioux Falls) is Barn Bluff at Red Wing, and it's all sport routes there. It's a bit lacking in the range you asked about, but there are probably 25 routes under 5.10. There are a couple 5.5's, one quality 5.6, and a few nice 5.7's. You could combine Devils Lake and Red Wing if you were so inclined. I don't know about much camping around Red Wing though, although there is a campground with a great burger bar right across the river in Wisconsin, I have never camped there.
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ramylson
Sep 30, 2004, 2:54 PM
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In reply to: I am just curious, I have yet to climb at Devil's lake and I was thinking of making a road trip 2nd weekend in october... will that be too late? For those of you native's to Devil's lake area when is the normal end of season for ya?
Just like anything, weather can be a bit odd to figure out. One year it could be absolutely beautiful, the next year it could be brutally cold. But, per the norm, the middle of October would be absolutely perfect. And, my guess is you should be in the park either right at, or just after, the peak of the fall colors. Always amazing.
As far as the latest I've been able to climb there, it was towards the end of December, w/ the temps in the low thirties. Of course, it was probably one of the best climbing days I've ever had at Devil's Lake. There was almost, dare I say, "friction"? :wink: There are a lot of people that will climb there year round, depending on snow, weather, sun (remember, dark red rock, so in a protected area things can get quite warm).. just depends I guess.
In reply to: Also does anybody have any quality sport routes 5.6 - 5.8+ they can recommend?
Unfortunately, there's a bolting ban at the park. Hence, no modern sport routes. There are a few bolts/pitons still running around the park from back in the day, but it's not something I would really trust. Not to mention, they have a tendency to normally be found on harder routes. The majority of the routes are either going to be traditionally climbed, or top-roped. Also, be warned that the grades at the lake are sandbagged a bit, but that just makes things a bit interesting. Some of the routes I would recommend: Push Me, Pull You (.6), Peter's Project (.7), Two Pines (.6), Orgasm (.8), Rogers Roof (.8), Chicago (.8), Birch Tree Crack (.8), Upper Diagonal (.9), Pine Tree Step Across (.6), Curving Crack (.8), Weissner's Face (.8).. Honestly, there's really good climbing throughout the park. You really can't go wrong..
Feel free to IM, or respond here, if you have any additional questions..
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wildtrail
Sep 30, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: I am just curious, I have yet to climb at Devil's lake and I was thinking of making a road trip 2nd weekend in october... will that be too late? For those of you native's to Devil's lake area when is the normal end of season for ya? Also does anybody have any quality sport routes 5.6 - 5.8+ they can recommend? Thanks in advance!!
Well, that all depends on you. I climb all winter long. The second week can go both ways. It could be 45 or 70, you never really know.
As far as sport goes, thankfully the rock hasn't been bolted, so you're SOL on that. Lot's of good trad and plenty of stuff to set up top ropes. You'll want to be on the East Bluff. I suggest you get A Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. It lists the most routes of all guidebooks on the area.
Enjoy!
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chitown_coop
Oct 27, 2004, 2:12 AM
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So I'm trying to figure out if I should try to get off work for the Sunday/Monday of November 7th/8th. The 15-day forecast is putting the highs in the mid to upper 40's and the lows around 30. I'm sure if it's sunny, then that would probably be pretty comfortable on the East Bluff, but if it's cloudy...?
Am I going to freeze my ass off?
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monopocketmojo
Oct 27, 2004, 2:38 AM
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at this time of year, i'd go if the forecast is 50+ and sunny. Now, you can still climb and i've heard of people climbing in january or february, but like anything else on this site it's all a matter of personal preference. if you can handle climbing with cold hands, you can climb until there's snow on the ground. Me, it would take a special day to go climbing at this time of year. or a lust to touch real rock and not just plastic...
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chitown_coop
Oct 27, 2004, 2:41 AM
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In reply to: . . . Me, it would take a special day to go climbing at this time of year. or a lust to touch real rock and not just plastic...
Yeah. That's really the thing about it: I only finally got out onto real rock twice this year (both in October on comfortably cool--50's--days). I just can't stand the thought of being stuck on plastic for 5 months!!
Like the parrot: I'm pining for the fields...err...crags.
:D
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brianthew
Oct 27, 2004, 3:02 AM
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Do it the Minnesotan way....go out in January. If it's possible to climb, do so. If not, whip out the rack and do some clean aid practice. Seriously, you have the whole crag to yourself, might as well.
But yeah, it's not unreasonable to be climbing into December depending on weather. 40-50ish is a decent temp at the Lake; there is almost friction.
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quickclips
Oct 27, 2004, 4:04 PM
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The great/worst part about winter climbing at the lake is it gets so cold you can't feel your hands, so they don't hurt but you don't know if they're going to stick... But I've climbed year round as well. Plus in the winter its cool to hear the ice crack.
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wildtrail
Oct 29, 2004, 2:28 PM
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In reply to: Do it the Minnesotan way....go out in January. If it's possible to climb, do so. If not, whip out the rack and do some clean aid practice. Seriously, you have the whole crag to yourself, might as well.
In reply to: But yeah, it's not unreasonable to be climbing into December depending on weather. 40-50ish is a decent temp at the Lake; there is almost friction.
Friction? What the hell are you talking about? There isn't friction in July, let alone December.
*Exits room, shaking head, mumbling something about how stupid Minnesotans are* :D
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monopocketmojo
Oct 29, 2004, 3:17 PM
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well, first of all he said there's "almost" friction in December, but haven't you gone in cold weather and noticed that it's easier to stick to the rock? my guess is that you sweat less (and DL's quartzite just seems to absorb water and become clamy or damp immediately when you put a sweaty mug on it) and stick better. Not that there really is friction, but almost. :lol:
i read a quote about quartzite in a climbing mag recently, not sure exactly what it said, but the quote went something like "...I recognized it immediately--Quartzite, the best rock in the world for climbing." it makes me want to rethink how i feel about it after reading that statement :wink: .
edited for bad grammar
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chitown_coop
Oct 29, 2004, 3:28 PM
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In reply to: . . . haven't you gone in cold weather and noticed that it's easier to stick to the rock? . . . DL's quartzite just seems to absorb water and become clamy or damp immediately when you put a sweaty mug on it . . .
That's sort of what I was thinking: colder air=less humidity=less sweaty rock?
I couldn't be more frustrated at the weather this weekend...I can't make it out of town, and I'm forced to grumble every time I hear the forecast. High 50's to 60's? And next weekend (when I *am* free) it's highs in the low 40's. WEAK!
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poppasmearf
Oct 29, 2004, 5:11 PM
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In reply to: For those of you native's to Devil's lake area when is the normal end of season for ya?
NEVER
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wildtrail
Oct 30, 2004, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Unfortunately, there's a bolting ban at the park. more like thank heavens!!
Goddamn right!
Brad! I can't believe you'd say that!
1. There isn't a single OUNCE of rock at DL that needs to be bolted. EVERYTHING is top ropable and after that, a large quantity can be tradded.
2. That's part of the reason they closed Gibraltar, because doofuses bolted what didn't need bolting.
3. Sport is a necessary evil, but only when when the rock is too high to TR and devoid of features like cracks and pockets. And, the occassional bolt is more than acceptable when high on a wall and you find yourself at a crack that just dead ended.
Don't EVER say that again. I'm VP of WOA and bolting is one of the DNR's main concerns about access at places like Gov. Dodge. Already some joker has bolted at Dodge and the DNR ain't happy about it.
I've removed some bolts at Dodge, soon, I'll remove them all.
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monopocketmojo
Nov 1, 2004, 5:19 AM
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i'm with brad. it's unfortunate that there is no sport leading at the lake. i can understand why some people like the policy, but leading adds so much to the climbing experience. yes, there is plenty to lead without bolts, but there are a lot of unprotectable routes that would be great for leading. yeah, you can tr them, but that's not really the point. you could tr a crack too, but that's the whole reason you lead--it's more challenging (read: fun).
i go back and forth about the extent to which i like/dislike the lake. my two biggest detractors are 1.) no sport leading and 2.) no multi-pitch.
of course, having moved to michigan for school, i'll take just about any real rock at this point... :cry:
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wildtrail
Nov 1, 2004, 8:47 AM
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In reply to: i'm with brad. it's unfortunate that there is no sport leading at the lake. i can understand why some people like the policy, but leading adds so much to the climbing experience. yes, there is plenty to lead without bolts, but there are a lot of unprotectable routes that would be great for leading. yeah, you can tr them, but that's not really the point. you could tr a crack too, but that's the whole reason you lead--it's more challenging (read: fun). i go back and forth about the extent to which i like/dislike the lake. my two biggest detractors are 1.) no sport leading and 2.) no multi-pitch. of course, having moved to michigan for school, i'll take just about any real rock at this point... :cry:
I completely disagree. Sport adds nothing, but destruction to the rock in areas like Devil's Lake.
Yeah, you can TR a crack. The point is simple; too many sport areas and drilling and bolting certainly does not help matters when access is in mind. Bolting Devil's Lake would be nothing short of wrong.
There is nothing wrong or invalid about a TR accent, especially when keeping the area as close to its natural state as possible is concerned.
Personally, if a person has a problem with the lack of lead climbs at Devil's Lake and needs to ruin the rock by drilling holes, they have serious issues. There is plenty to lead that is "challenging". Besides, climbs are challenging enough whether they are TRed or lead.
Like I said, thanks to some jackass(es) that has/have bolted other areas without reason have left access up in the air. Bolting at Devil's Lake would be simply moronic.
Hey, if you want to lead, lead. Sport isn't leading. :wink:
At least, not real leading.
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euroford
Nov 1, 2004, 2:41 PM
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when you lead all of the trad routes, you can start complaining about the lack of leading at the lake. fact is, there is tons of it (relativly speaking of course) on the west bluff, and even more on the east.
we are very very fortunate that DL carries a good clean climbing ethic and its not lacking one bit by the absence of bolting. in fact i'm quite proud that our local crag carries a strong ethic.
IMO: the only essential piece of fixed pro in the entire park is the rap anchor off the top of cleo's.
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organic
Nov 1, 2004, 3:00 PM
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I think people who say there is no reason for bolts probably do not climb harder than 5.9 or are named Fred Beckey. The thing is have you ever tried working a 5.12 crux on pro? No, well neither have I and I do not plan to until I do not have to work it. Sport leading can at places like the lake add some danger to all the n00bs that climb there, because that place can be n00b heaven or hell depending on the way you look at it. But bolting something like bagatelle(sp?) 5.12d face climb, I do not see the problem. Besides to some people who think you are ruining the rock. If you are so concerned about the rock why do you climb? I can understand in some places where climbing is banned the rock should not be destroyed but this is Devil's Lake here, access is not an issue and impact is not an issue because there is just so dang much of it. TR is great but I have top ropped routes clean and could not red point them. It is fun to knock sporto's until you find out they can climb harder than you on trad and top rope and are just trying to push themselves without hurting themselves.
PS. do you chop your bolts on lead?
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euroford
Nov 1, 2004, 3:24 PM
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its simple. if you want to sport climb 5.12, you need to go someplace else. DL is not for you. end of story.
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organic
Nov 1, 2004, 3:26 PM
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In reply to: its simple. if you want to sport climb 5.12, you need to go someplace else. DL is not for you. end of story.
haha straight and to the point gotta like you for that at least.
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brianthew
Nov 1, 2004, 4:20 PM
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Woah, woah, woah!!!
Now, I'm mainly a sport climber myself. I enjoy clipping bolts. For every pitch of gear, I probably climb a dozen clip-ups.
But I still think that there should never ever be bolts at Devil's Lake.
It's been bolt free ever since the first ascents were going up waaay back in the day. "No bolts" is the local ethic, and has been for decades.
You're still free to lead Bagatelle, my friend. Just get out your duct tape and hooks. Dangerous? Yes, it is. But this ain't no climbing gym! As a matter of history, many of the face routes at the Lake were lead precisely in this manner.
In reply to: access is not an issue
If bolts were placed at the Lake, I can assure you climbing would be banned almost immediately. the WDNR does not appreciate bolts in its rocks. The fact that some Wisconsin state parks (like Willow River) have legit bolts is a miracle (ever been to Willow? Sweet steep sport climbing!).
In reply to: I think people who say there is no reason for bolts probably do not climb harder than 5.9 or are named Fred Beckey.
Absolutely incorrect.
In reply to: The thing is have you ever tried working a 5.12 crux on pro?
Yes, I have. I prefer bolts, though. 8^)
There are places for sport climbing, there are places for trad. There are places for both. Not everything must be bolted out of convenience for "n00bs" who are looking for "some danger."
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quickclips
Nov 1, 2004, 5:09 PM
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I also enjoy sport climbing, but there is no reason for us to have bolts at the lake. Alot of what makes the lake 'the lake' is that its all CLEAN. The only pieces left are the original pitons, and the nOOb's booty gear (and I'm working on that). Leave it a clean place, if you want to clip bolts go to the Red, R.R., Wild Iowa, Red Wing, So. Ill., the New......(insert many other sport places here). But keep drills away from the lake.
Chris
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