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climb_plastic
Nov 6, 2004, 12:36 AM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
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Of course they're helpful in climbing. If you don't think they help your climbing then you're doing something wrong. I've seen many people go from climbing 5.10 on their first day to climbing 5.12 and above in a year. Then again I've seen people stuck on 5.11 for years but I think it's because of their attitude....they don't climb in the gym to improve but to maintain. I started in the gym, climbed there for 10 months before I went outside and after some getting used to the rock I climbed a 5.12a on the second day. There's no way I could do that without the gym climbing because I started off on 5.10 plastic and when I started it seemed like 5.12s were impossible.
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colqueerio
Nov 6, 2004, 1:18 AM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 31
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This is a no-brainer and probably a troll, but of course gyms are useful, invaluable even. With good course-setting, you can punch out tons of mileage, whatever your limit might be, in a short amount of time, especially during the cold, dark winter months, when those of us that *work* can't get outside and play all day.
Those of you that started climbing pre-rock-gym revolution probably know exactly what I'm talking about. Our off-season training consisted of getting outside whenever we could to the rock, even if it meant climbing on unbearably cold days (more tendon-damaging and injurious, I'd argue, than any session in the gym); lifting weights (boring, tedious, horrible); pull-ups (boring, injurious); and hangboarding (a great way to stay strong in your upper body, but not anything that imparts the all-too-crucial "rock sense," or ability to stay flexible, read moves, and flow up the stone).
I'd say the only gyms that are less useful are the ones with lax course-setting, but even then you can make up your own problems. And this one gym I visited one time where the dick behind the counter bald-faced lied to me, saying leading "was for members only," because he was too lazy to give a belay test to me and my friend.
But that's another story.
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floridaputz
Nov 6, 2004, 2:19 AM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Dec 30, 2002
Posts: 136
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I never stepped in a climbing gym until I was almost 40. I now live in Florida and would have no way to train without a climbing gym. Climbing in the Gym, be it ever so humble, primarily helps me maintain hand strength. It keeps me sharp and praticed on the belay. Because of this I can pick up my rack, jump on a plane and climb anywhere in this country and be ready to go. I already have all the skills, so this works for me.
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tradman
Nov 12, 2004, 12:39 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Jan 14, 2003
Posts: 7159
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In reply to: You're not going to get your s--- in order in at the local gym.
Is that why almost without exception, every single world-class climber on this planet, all of them, even the ones who know waaaaaaaay more about climbing than you (and yes, near-impossible though it may be to comprehend, younger, harder, fitter and more experienced climbers do exist) use gyms to get stronger.
:roll:
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nthusiastj
Nov 12, 2004, 2:34 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
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Lynn Hill still climbs indoors. Of course, she doesn't need the help. But If the best female climber in the world climbs indoors, there may be something behind it.
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