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esteban008
Nov 9, 2004, 8:43 PM
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This is going to be me and my friends first trime out to Joshua Tree. Were planning on staying at Jumbo Rocks. I've been checking out climbingjtree.com and have found a few routes. I was wondering if anyone could recommend some good top ropes or sports routes in the range 5.8 - 5.10 in that area. We havent done much in the way of trad leading so we will most likely stick to the top ropes or sports(if any). Thanks alot.
Steve
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caughtinside
Nov 9, 2004, 8:45 PM
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You should check out headstone rock in Ryan campground, its got 2 good bolted routes, a 5.6 and a 5.8.
Those are the only 2 bolted routes I've done in Josh.
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trad_mike
Nov 9, 2004, 8:48 PM
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Most Jtree TRs don't have bolted anchors. Expect to use gear and sling natural features to set up anchors.
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alpnclmbr1
Nov 9, 2004, 8:52 PM
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alpnclmbr1 moved this thread from Beginners to Regional Discussions.
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jklinke
Nov 9, 2004, 8:57 PM
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Check out 'Sexy Grandma' between 'Double Cross' and 'Bandsaw' on the Old Woman. It's a fun 5.8+ and is sport-bolted for JTree standards with chains at the top.
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fredbob
Nov 9, 2004, 9:04 PM
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In reply to: This is going to be me and my friends first trime out to Joshua Tree. Were planning on staying at Jumbo Rocks.
Why Jumbo? It is not very convenient to most of the climbing in the Park and you either have a good walk or a drive to get to any decent routes. Campgrounds, in order of preference, for climbers are: Hidden Valley, Ryan, Sheep Pass [group camping only - reservations needed], Jumbo, Belle, White Tank, Indian Cove*.
(*However, if the weather is cold or you wish to climb in Indian Cove or Rattlesnake Canyon only, Indian Cove is fine.)
In reply to: I was wondering if anyone could recommend some good top ropes or sports routes in the range 5.8 - 5.10 in that area. We havent done much in the way of trad leading so we will most likely stick to the top ropes or sports(if any).
If you want to have the most options for TRing stuff at Josh, first off, you will need to bring an extendo sling/rope. Some routes have anchors near the edge, but many do not. The best extendo is about 30+ feet length of your old retired climbing rope. A cordelette or long runner to equalize placements is helpful too. Nuts and cams to 2.5-3 inches are essential as most routes do not have bolt anchors on top.
If your heart is set on Jumbo Rocks CG, avoid any of the routes in Jumbo Rocks area proper. Connan's Corridor has some good cracks, but you'll have to do some funky scrambling to get to the top of the formation to TR any of these. Zebra Cliffs and the Hen House can easily be approaced from the CG, but probably are not the best TR spots (though there are a few bolted lines at both areas-most not sport).
Splits Rocks is the closest area with a variety of route options. Future Games Wall has routes that can be easily TR'd and there are a least a couple bolted routes (a couple sport bolted) in the 5.10 range.
But you're best bets lie in the western section of the Park at areas that are all within spitting distance of Hidden Valley CG. You will meet more climbers at HVCG and get some good recommendations as well.
Lastly, for moderate sport routes, you must go to Outer Mongolia (an area at Josh, not the place in Central Asia). Several long 1 and 2 pitch 5.8 to 10a sport bolted routes that are sunny most of the day are found here. Check out climbingjtree.com for more info. Here is the link to the area: http://climbingjtree.com/...orth/outer_mongolia/
P.S.:
I am sure that some people will direct your efforts to popular top roping areas like The Thin Wall, Dairy Queen Wall, Lizard Rock, etc. My advice, don't.
There are so many better options and these areas tend to be overrun by hoards of unimaginative climbers. Even Echo Cove (which has lots of fun stuff) can be quite busy, but has a better selection of routes.
Also, avoid Atlantis; lots of very short, very mediocre routes and very crowded at times.
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gamehendge
Nov 9, 2004, 11:22 PM
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Thin Wall in Hidden Valley picnic area. 5.10d-5.6? All TR but you'll need gear to set up. Also get's kinda busy on the weekends.
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esteban008
Nov 9, 2004, 11:47 PM
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The reason we are staying at Jumbo Rocks is because we are taking my buddys RV. I have camped many times at Josh, but never in an RV. When I called to ranger station they informed me I could RV camp at Cottonwood, Jumbo Rocks, Black Rock, or Indian Cove. I wanted to be more central to the park so we decided Jumbo Rocks. Were pulling a jeep behind so we can get to the other areas. So thats my reasoning for staying at Jumbo. As far as gear goes I have all the necessary webbing, cordlettes, nuts, hexes, and a few tri cams to set up the top rope anchor, and I have done this many times. Thanks for all the advice you guys have given, any other advice is appreciated.
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crux_lover
Nov 10, 2004, 12:15 AM
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Esteban,
I'd check out Thin Wall in Hidden Valley. Seems like a good beginners place to TR. 5.6- 5.10s. Also, No Calculators Allowed is a fun climb.
Happy Climbing,
Dawn
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climbsomething
Nov 10, 2004, 12:47 AM
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Listen to fredbob. I've climbed at some of the obvious little TR/no hike crags, and they didn't suck THAT bad but the park has so much better. Still, if you do, get ready for crowds.
Do you not have cams?
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