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andyc
Nov 2, 2004, 6:42 PM
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hi
I've searched the forums and googled and checked out tradgirl and whatnot and didn't find what i was looking for, so please be patient. i'm hoping to start ice climbing this winter and i was wondering about ways to train indoors specifically for ice. basically i'm thinking about hanging dowells similar in diameter to axe handles to do pullups on to improve grip, and better mimic pulling with hands facing that direction. i just wanted some input on whether you all think this is a good idea, or if i should just stick to pullups- and if it does work well, any suggestions on the best way to install them? i was thinking eye-screws or something similar in the dowells and hanging those from hooks in the rafters.
thanks
and if i missed a website describing this and dont know about it, please let me know
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andyc
Nov 2, 2004, 6:52 PM
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nevermind, sorry.
i just found my answer in another topic that i thought i read before.
forgive my naivete. :oops:
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sandbag
Nov 2, 2004, 7:12 PM
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heres a fun thing you can do in an unfinished garage: Hook the rafters with the tools and see if you can do laps in the garage campusing with the tools from rafter to rafter, and for really hard fun crampon up and try to keep all of your appendages on the wood at any given time.
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andyc
Nov 2, 2004, 7:38 PM
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the problem i have is that i've never climbed ice before so don't have tools. i was going to try different brands out this season before i buy anything so i just wanted something cheap and easy to use before the season really hits. i found the hammer handles idea in the taining in a gym post about three minutes after i posted. but thanks for the idea.
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discolegsyndrome
Nov 2, 2004, 7:46 PM
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Hey, I found this book helpful as an intro to ice climbing.
The last few chapters deal with diet and training. They do show some excercises you can do without tools.
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photon
Nov 2, 2004, 8:31 PM
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Do lot's of hiking to the climbs if you can with a heavy pack on (this will probably be your most effective training for ice).
core training -- should be part of any training regimen pick your poison
pilates, yoga, run a chainsaw, dig ditches, work for a concrete company..
get some axe handles drill a hole in the top that you can thread cord through or webbing. Tie off the webbing. Get some eye hooks and mount them somewhere. Practice unhooking and hooking the tools onto the eye hooks, can you say one arm lock off strength! You can do them with or without feet obviously way harder without.
Stack up some 2x4's and do heel lifts (don't want those calves flaming out).
scare the poop out of yourself a lot, you know maintain composure under fire--join the army, get married, jog through rush hour traffic
most ice partners will require you to drink lots of beer on command so make sure you can throw em back
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dotc
Nov 8, 2004, 6:13 PM
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I like to put on at least 15 pounds by eating lots of greasy food and drinking beer. This will help you to keep from freezing to death. Ignore everything you have heard about the so called "strength-to-weight ratio" it is BS.
P.S. It is important to start this training regiem at least four months before ice season, so stop gym climbing right away and get to the pub!
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hema
Nov 8, 2004, 6:27 PM
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The beer thing is good;-)
Another possible training regimes might include general suffering (go jogging with lousy boots and a heavy rucksack that has no padding at the back, also make sure that it is cold, raining or sleeting and cold ;-)
You might also want to start hitting your knukles and yor pinky at woodwalls to get 'em used to regular ice-bashing sessions. Also dithc your hands and feet into ice-cold water (add ice to keep it cold) and get used to it, if you can get a friend/girlfriend/fiancee/roommate to throw small rocks and ice-cubicles at you while doing all these training regimes (except the beer one).
And as a real advice be prepared to suffer (and really get good core strength and upper body muscles, ie. jogging with a back and pull-ups & lockoffs).
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andyc
Nov 8, 2004, 8:59 PM
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thank you all,
i appreciate the advice. working on lock-offs and suffering endurance, etc. been trying out a new cardio/inebrio endurance regimen with pubjogs rather than pubcrawls. thanks again,
andy
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Nov 8, 2004, 9:10 PM
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Go to the gym and do the stairmaster with a 50 lb. pack. You have to be able to do the approach before you can do the climb.
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tobym
Nov 10, 2004, 10:57 AM
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Try:
http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=213
and
http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=214
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gritstoner
Nov 10, 2004, 1:05 PM
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cycle etc to get the legs working. after that just drink a shed load of beer. seems to have worked for the rest of the british lads.
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sharpie
Nov 10, 2004, 2:18 PM
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In reply to: most ice partners will require you to drink lots of beer on command so make sure you can throw em back
This is great advice...take heed...
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gbmaz
Nov 10, 2004, 3:00 PM
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I have always thought this classic rom rec.climbing says it all:
In reply to: From: Pedro Espina To find out if ice climbing is for you, 1. Ask, read, and loose as much sleep as possible wondering what style of ice gear is right for you. 2. Bring you VISA card to your closest climbing store and spend all of next year's disposable income on equipment that somebody in rec.climbing recommended based on hearsay. 3. Hide the gear at home and try to control the fear that the thought of "your wife finding out that you just spend $3K that you didn't have" will bring to your heart. 4. Using a 10 lbs. frozen sea bass, smash the backside your fingers until you can't hold the frozen carcass any longer. 5. In front of an open refrigerator, strip to your underwear, place 10 or 12 ice cubes around your testicles, poor a gallon of cold water over your head, and repeat "Man... This is f*cking great!". 6. Tie yourself to a massive object just under the balconies of your local retirement home, display a sign that reads "Safe my future... Reduce Social Security benefits now!", and try to survive the barrage of large hurling objects coming your way. 7. Ask your neighbor to tie his Rottweiler with a shoelace at the other side of a 4 foot fence. Smack the dog a couple of times and repeat "If the string breaks, the fence will hold him back... the fence will hold... the fence will hold..." 8. Call-in thick Friday morning. Jump in the car with a couple of guy with questionable personal hygiene and drive for 13 hours strait. Get our of the car, realize that there is no ice to be climbed and return home feeling still exited about the prospects for ice climbing the next weekend. 9. Find out, from your new friends, that half of the gear that you bought in step #2 is really worthless and that "...only 'Posers' buy that stuff". and finally, 10. Over a romantic dinner, tell your wife that she will be on-her-own for Thanksgiving, X-mas, New Year's, Martin Luther King Day, and Presidents' Day, because you will be driving "up-north" with "the guys". If you can satisfy the requirements stated above, ice climbing may be for you. In that case see http://www.erols.com/espina/Climbing/ for some inspiration.
On a more serious note Will Gadds book Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Techniques is probably the best on the market and has a chapter on training.
Depending on where you are climbing the advice on working aerobic fitness is good. I am pretty out of shape and weak for my size and find I can get up most things up to easy WI 5 without much trouble, but the approaches often kick my a**, especially if they are at altitude here in CO.
Enjoy and remember if don't climb ice it don't mean s**t! (At least that is what I tell myself when some gym bred newbie smokes me on an easy sport climb.) :wink:
George
"Master of the Alpine Belly"
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fire_or_retire
Dec 6, 2004, 12:03 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Find yourself a step or stairs and do an assload of calf raises. It's not the most burly workout but it helps for front pointing. If you're at a gym with a pull down machine hook up a straight bar to it. Sit on your knees with one arm gripping the bar like you would a tool. With your arm extended pull down and lock it off for a few seconds then release it. I like to do 3 reps of 15 with about 70lbs. It's pretty similar to the movment you do outside and helps build some endurance. Pull ups with your tools is also good but I find that when I lead ice my balls get in the way long before I would ever do a move similar to a flailing pull up.
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