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obsessed_newbie
Nov 18, 2004, 3:37 AM
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I do not want to be one of the new climbers that burns out after a few years; I want to climb as long as my body lets me. From your experience/knowledge/previous mistakes (whatever), what is the one piece of advice you would give to a newer climber? (new climber being one with 0-5 years experience)
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bandycoot
Nov 18, 2004, 3:44 AM
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Interesting question. Everybody's tastes and obsessions have the potential to change. What if there is something out there you would enjoy more? Why stick to climbing? If you really love climbing, it won't take effort to remain a climber. If climbing turns out to not be "your thing" and you drift off into some other passtime, why is that a bad thing?
Josh
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sed
Nov 18, 2004, 3:49 AM
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Allow your injuries to heal despite the tempation to push yourself through pain, particularly tendon and ligament injuries.
S
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curt
Nov 18, 2004, 3:54 AM
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In reply to: I do not want to be one of the new climbers that burns out after a few years; I want to climb as long as my body lets me. From your experience/knowledge/previous mistakes (whatever), what is the one piece of advice you would give to a newer climber? (new climber being one with 0-5 years experience)
OK, I have climbed at a fairly reasonable standard for 25 years now, so I may be an "experienced climber" of sorts. Most of the people I know who have stayed in climbing for many, many years have done so because they truly love climbing. Many of those who have come and gone in the sport, have been driven by competitive desires. Not that friendly competition is bad among climbers, but if seeing what the highest rated climb you can do is fueling your inner fire--this fire will eventually burn out.
Curt
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obsessed_newbie
Nov 18, 2004, 3:56 AM
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bandycoot.........I have never enjoyed anything more in my life. I am not worried that it may not be my thing somewhere down the road. I am worried i won't approach the sport smart. I jumped into climbing full force. I have only climbed a year and took maybe 4 months off because of tendonitis and straining out my back. I am also afraid i will not be smart with the people i choose to climb with. Within this one year i already discovered some physical and mental damage. I dont want it to be permenant so i am asking for experienced climbers advice on how to stick with it. This is my sport, and is very quickly becoming my lifestyle; i have no doubt in my mind that will change because i get bored of it or because i may change. I thought i could be a better climber if i hear from better climbers.
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holdplease2
Nov 18, 2004, 4:11 AM
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Hey Newbie:
If you lived out West or East, this problem would probably take care of itself...you'd start off, say, climbing sport (tendon ripper) then discover trad (less damage, maybe) then get back to bouldering, obsess over alpine for a few years, then resign yourself to bigwall. One wall? back to sport, maybe ice in the season.
As a chicago climber, you don't have these options. (I was one, so I know)
Your biggest danger is your location. You will be cranking hard in the gym year in and year out. The majority of your climbing trips will be to RRG, KY, where you will crank hard on pockets. IF you get to take enough trips, you may get to learn trad, but likely not. You may get to go to So Ill and crank hard on boulders.
The best long term advice for you? Move, eventually. Go somewhere that your climbing interest can grow across several forms of climbing, giving your body a break and variety.
The best short term advice? IMO don't get so obsessed with one climb at your gym that is over your head that you work it and work it and work it. This can lead to injury. Mix it up at the gym. Climb the routes with slopers for a few weeks, crimpers the next. Climb many routes within your limit one week for milage, then work something hard the next. When something hurts, lay off! Take the time to take a first aid course or spend your gym time teaching yourself self-rescue techniques with a book in your house.
Anyway, good luck to you.
-Kate.
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anykineclimb
Nov 18, 2004, 5:09 AM
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From my personal experience you can have varying dedication to the sport/ lifestyle.
When I 1st got into climbing I was fully into it, climbing all the time, working at a gym, teaching. All kinds of stuff. Then I moved and could not climb as often. Either gym or rock. When I was able to get out, I would, if not, oh well. When I got back to a good area again, I dove back into climbing. A few years later I met my current girlfriend and practically stopped climbing to spend time with her. She did nothing in any way of refusinf me to climb. I just was happy hanging out with her.
When asked by a friend why I wasn't climbing much. My reply was that I'll always have climbing in my life, so its ok to put it aside for a while.
We(me and girlfriend) then moved to Colorado and I, understandibly, went full on into climbing again.
So I guess my advice is just enjoy climbing. If you really love it, it will always be in your life. Sometimes more than other times.
Jeez, sounds a little sasppy huh?
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robdotcalm
Nov 18, 2004, 5:15 AM
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«I do not want to be one of the new climbers that burns out after a few years; I want to climb as long as my body lets me. »
That’s trying to predict the future, which is the one thing we can’t predict. You don’t know what you’ll want in a few years. Since I’ve been climbing for 35 years (and bummed out that the weather kept me from climbing today), one might assume I have some advice to offer. I don’t really. I’ve enjoyed it, I’ve kept at it, and it has not been my whole life. Job and family came first. Same with weight lifting, which I’ve done regularly for 50 years. I accept the limitations which age and wear and tear have imposed and don’t do mountaineering anymore.
If you enjoy climbing, you’ll keep with it, else you’ll find another recreational activity. One group of partners I’ve noticed that has given up on climbing are the very competitive. One fellow I climbed with quite a bit, stopped climbing after he couldn’t get past 11b traditional. In retrospect, I can see that he climbed mostly to grade himself on his progress (which is understandable) and not paying attention to the purely pleasurable aspects of the activity. I would guess that traditional climbing in beautiful areas might promote an attitude of enjoying the activity for its own sake rather than using it as a means to grade yourself. Sometimes soloing easy routes can do this.
But I’m meandering (which is fun). I really don’t know.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
17 November 2004 21:57 MST (-6 UMT)
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cologman
Nov 18, 2004, 5:34 AM
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I like Curt have been playing at this sport for some time now. If passion is driving you likely it will be there for years to come. I never tire of the possibilities a rock offers. I was just in the bottom of the Black Canyon over the weekend and I couldn't tear my eyes from the lines looming over my head. Lines I will never be able to climb but my mind still goes there. Gauge your enthusiasm by what fires you up. If its numbers as several have said, look closely at your motives. I've always likened climbing to a vertical dance, full of Zen and breathing life. Wuhh! Korny perhaps but after 30+ years it still keeps me coming back for more. Kate perhaps summed up the more mechanical answer, location, location, location.
PM us in 10 or 15 years and tell us about your journey. If the story rolls off your tongue with the fire of impetuous youth, you answered your own question.
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jefft
Nov 18, 2004, 5:46 AM
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Well, first off, forget ratings. Sort of.
Ratings as a guide to keep you from getting in over your head or to keep you from hiking an hour only to climb a disapointingly easy crack is a good thing. Ratings become a bad thing when you start passing climbs because the ratings is below your "standard" or start trying to tackle climbs simply because it's on your 5.10 d "tick list".
I have learned to be very gratefull that the guys who started me into climbing did not bother telling me about Ratings and Grades. It allowed me to honestly evaluate climbs for myself, not on some arbitrary number system, but on how much fun I had. It didn't matter if I could do the climb, or if it was easy or hard. It mattered (and still does) that I enjoyed the time on the wall.
Second, do not let yourself get sucked into the trap of compairing your climbing to that of anybody else's. Climbing is about as individual sport as you can find. You and you alone get your butt up a wall, so the only style that does matter is yours.
In short, to mirror the thoughts of those who posted already, to stay in climbing is simple, as long as you really do enjoy climbing for the simple sake of climbing.
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ontario_guide
Nov 18, 2004, 5:57 AM
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I've been climbing for 12 years now and the besides letting yourself heal properly I'd have two main pieces of advice. Don't be afraid to take a month or two off when you start getting burned out and try not to get in the habit of chasing numbers. Eventually you will reach a plateau in terms of your climbing ability. If you are only climbing to break 5.10 or whatever your goal is, it will get odd quick. My experience is that most climbers who stay in the sport for the long term do it becuase they are drawn to rock or the experience. It's hard to explain but you'll either get what I mean or you won't.
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bandycoot
Nov 18, 2004, 6:35 AM
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If you want to stay in love with the sport then I would recommend trying all aspects of it. Boulder, sport, trad, long, short, aid, bigwall. Find that part that you really love. Plus, you'll constantly be experiencing new things (keep it novel) and gaining skills and knowledge that often translate to other areas of the sport.
Josh
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crackmd
Nov 18, 2004, 7:00 AM
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Everyone's bagging on numbers. I agree that number-chasing is a quick way to burn out on the sport. At the same time numbers are merely a guide for one to bring out their best. My climbing fire is fueled by that moment in time when I am focused and performing at my best; that moment when I am climbing to my body and mind's potential. This potential has changed over the years with different life circumstances, so I have slowly learned to be happy with whatever my best is at the time. Climbing grades are one way that I use to guide me on this pervasive quest for my finest hours.
Search for your finest efforts not your highest numbers. Print out this thread; there has been a ton of great advice.
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 7:06 AM
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:D
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karlbaba
Nov 18, 2004, 7:08 AM
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I've been climbing since 1976 and climb more than ever now. I wind up climbing with a lot of folks reentering the sport after quitting for some time.
So my experience tells me this: the biggest threat to climbing are lifestyle choices. Who you marry, how demanding a career you choose, and how many kids you have.
It's not wrong to compromise. It's not wrong if your values and priorities change in time. But, if you want to know what makes folks who love climbing, quit climbing, see above
peace
karl
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crackmd
Nov 18, 2004, 7:23 AM
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Quote. To all boulderers and sport climbers .... I enjoy sport climbing very much and bouldering is fun at times but there are a rare few who have dedicated 20 or 30 years to these pursuits alone.
I agree somewhat with what you are saying here about trad climbers having more longevity in the sport. Let's keep in mind though that sport climbing has not been around for more than 20 years or so. Bouldering has been around for a long time, but prior to ten years or so ago was widely considered as solely training for roped climbing and not an endeavor in and of itself like it is today. These are generalizations so don't get pissed at me if you were solely bouldering or clipping rap bolts in 1975. I would wait another few years to comment on the longevity of sportclimbers and boulderers.
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 7:47 AM
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:D
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alpnclmbr1
Nov 18, 2004, 8:55 AM
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Bouldering for power
Sport for endurance
Trad for your head
Mountains for your soul
Keeping a good variety going also helps prevent overuse injuries.
Good climbing partners are gold.
People plateau in their level of commitment more so then what they are actually capable of. If you are willing to up the ante, you can always get better.
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tarsier
Nov 18, 2004, 11:04 AM
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warm up.
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dingus
Nov 18, 2004, 2:46 PM
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Have an open mind, avoid dogmatic reactions to new things, TRY new things and most importantly, have fun.
If it ceases to be *fun,* you are finished.
DMT
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dingus
Nov 18, 2004, 2:58 PM
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In reply to: So my experience tells me this: the biggest threat to climbing are lifestyle choices. Who you marry, how demanding a career you choose, and how many kids you have. It's not wrong to compromise. It's not wrong if your values and priorities change in time. But, if you want to know what makes folks who love climbing, quit climbing, see above peace karl
Words of wisdom here.
DMT
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iclimbtoo
Nov 18, 2004, 3:20 PM
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I've been climbing for 9 or 10 years now. Everytime I'm on the rock (or God forbid...plastic) I feel a sense of renewal and excitement...like I'm facing a challenge I never have faced before. I'm addicted. If you find yourself addicted, great! If not, it's not a bad thing, it's just climbing isn't your thing. But if you're making an effort to "really enjoy climbing", you are trying WAY too hard!
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killclimbz
Nov 18, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: Have an open mind, avoid dogmatic reactions to new things, TRY new things and most importantly, have fun. If it ceases to be *fun,* you are finished. DMT
I second that, have fun, don't put to much stock in what people say about how you do things in this sport. It is a silly, purposeless, self centered sport, that does absolutely nothing to improve anything except how you feel. Take safety, and technique seriously, but don't take the sport itself in the same way. I can't tell you how many times, I've been cracking up on a route, boulder problem whatever cause I climbed myself into a stupid situation.
Enjoy yourself and you will continue on with this sport for many years.
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crackmd
Nov 18, 2004, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: I've been climbing since 1976 and climb more than ever now. I wind up climbing with a lot of folks reentering the sport after quitting for some time. So my experience tells me this: the biggest threat to climbing are lifestyle choices. Who you marry, how demanding a career you choose, and how many kids you have. It's not wrong to compromise. It's not wrong if your values and priorities change in time. But, if you want to know what makes folks who love climbing, quit climbing, see above peace karl
To an extent, I agree with this. I am always surprised by how much a motivated person can get done in the course of a day or a lifetime for that matter. I have made career choices which many would consider contrary to being a serious climber pushing limits. Time management and motivation has kept me climbing at what I would consider a high level. This has been through a medical education, residency and currently an arduous fellowship. I always find time to climb and am always excited for my next adventure. I concede that I could be climbing harder if I had a less arduous career, but I am content because I have the "best of both worlds"; passion for my career and recreation. I now have added another passion for my girlfriend who is a climber which has only made me more psyched on it. I do not have children, but if I did I would still be a climber constantly striving to push my limits, whatever those may be at the time. Bottom line in my mind is that if you are a motivated person you can strike a balance between everything you love if you maintain realistic goals, good time management and just have fun.
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adnix
Nov 18, 2004, 5:18 PM
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In reply to: Everyone's bagging on numbers. I agree that number-chasing is a quick way to burn out on the sport. At the same time numbers are merely a guide for one to bring out their best. |
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