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crowdedfeet
Nov 18, 2004, 2:27 AM
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I'm looking at doing some longer climbs. What are some of your favorite grade IVs (no harder than about 5.10a)? And where are they?
THX-- Jonathan
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knoxville
Nov 18, 2004, 2:38 AM
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In Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite:
Tenaya Peak, Northwest Buttress, 5.5ish, 12+ pitches but most usually simul-climbed or soloed.
Mt. Conness, West Ridge, 5.6. Lots of pitches.
In the Valley:
Snake Dike, 5.7
Higher Cathedral, Northeast Buttress, 5.9---Just an awesome route. Route finding is crucial.
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alpinerockfiend
Nov 18, 2004, 2:45 AM
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Cirque of the Towers in the Wind Rivers has quite a few: NE Buttress of Pingora (IV, 5.8) is on of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America".
The Tetons have The Snaz IV 5.10-. On the Enclosure, there's the Northwest and Southwest Ridges, both 5.7. Lots of other stuff on the Grand, but none that I can vouch for personally.
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slab-dyno
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Nov 18, 2004, 2:47 AM
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I haven't done too many, but the Regular Route on Fairview Dome in Tuolumne is great for a very moderate route. I haven't found too many other IV routes with only one short section of 5.9. I also really liked Astro Elephant on the Elephant's Perch in the Sawtooths in Idaho. It has some really classic pitches, with only two going as hard as 5.10, and the semi-backcountry feel really adds to it.
Jimmy
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takeme
Nov 18, 2004, 3:03 AM
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In reply to: I'm looking at doing some longer climbs. What are some of your favorite grade IVs (no harder than about 5.10a)? And where are they? THX-- Jonathan
My favorites at 10- or easier:
Casual Route, Longs Peak, Colorado (10a)--a must-do!
Journey Home, Black Canyon, Colorado (10-): veeeery sustained, with a runout 5.9 start, but awesome
Red Dihedral, Incredible Hulk, California--sometimes given as hard as 10c, but there is only about 5 feet of 5.10 climbing on the route, and it's more like 10a at most.
Symbiosis, South Pass area, Wind Rivers, Wyoming (10-)--an obscure and remote, but really excellent route. There is also a very good IV 5.9 right next to it--Gold Dihedrals I think? The Winds have loads of great greade IVs, both popular and obscure.
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davidji
Nov 18, 2004, 3:31 AM
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In reply to: In Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite: Tenaya Peak, Northwest Buttress, 5.5ish, 12+ pitches but most usually simul-climbed or soloed. Mt. Conness, West Ridge, 5.6. Lots of pitches. In the Valley: Snake Dike, 5.7 Higher Cathedral, Northeast Buttress, 5.9---Just an awesome route. Route finding is crucial.
NEB of Higher is a lot harder than the others on your list. I think the 5.10b variation may be mandatory*, although that's really just a move or 2 and sure didn't feel like the hardest part of the route.
Another great grade IV in the Meadows is Matthes Crest, and you can select your level of difficulty. Typically traversed from south to north, bailing after summiting the north peak, and mostly 3rd/4th class, with maybe 2 pitches of 5.6 to crest the ridge, and a pitch of 5.7 to climb the north peak. For more difficulties, continue on with 5th class climbing as far as you want towards north end of the ridge, or simply do the traverse from north to south.
Mathes Crest can be approached from Tenaya Peak, which should make a fun link-up.
*Or am I just proving your point about route finding?
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davidji
Nov 18, 2004, 7:22 AM
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In reply to: Snake Dike, 5.7
naclassics.com is a good place to look for good, long climbs. Good ones here and here on the Supertopo site too.
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crackmd
Nov 18, 2004, 7:37 AM
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Northeast Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite is my choice. It has length, awesome cracks of all sizes, breathtaking scenery and exposure. Approach is strenuous but not too bad and descent is mellow. Doesn't require a massive rack either. Get out and do it.
Don't mistake this route with the Direct North Buttress (DNB) of Middle Cathedral which is not such an enjoyable route. Somehow DNB has become a sandbagged "rite of passage" so I am sure these comments will be thoroughly chastised by the self-proclaimed Valley hardcores.
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 7:55 AM
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:D
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 18, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Only a grade 111 but if you are in the east Moby Grape on cannon is a must do. Most parties do the reppys crack start. Great route with wildly varried terrain in over 1,000 ft of climbing 8^)
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crotch
Nov 18, 2004, 5:10 PM
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gone
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a_guy_named_smith
Nov 18, 2004, 5:12 PM
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In reply to: wildly varried terrain in over 1,000 ft of climbing 8^)
does wildly varried mean choss? :lol: :lol:
reppy's crack, the finger of fate and triangle roof pitch make overcome the not as good climb between them.
oh, wear a helmet-rockfall is a biatch there
one of my favorites of all time!
what a great route
and while you are in the area there are some great grade III's over at whitehorse
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empicard
Nov 18, 2004, 5:25 PM
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anyone got any other good northeast < 5.7 suggestions?
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a_guy_named_smith
Nov 18, 2004, 5:30 PM
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In reply to: anyone got any other good northeast < 5.7 suggestions?
cannon, whitehorse, cathedral ledge
have tons of routes that are classics and are <5.7
runout slabs, burly stuff, you name it they have it
you may want to post on nelimbs.com
especially if you are interested in ice
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tradmanclimbs
Nov 18, 2004, 5:41 PM
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Whitny G. on cannon a must do. Considerably less commiting than Moby but great exposure. the Eaglet is only 200ft tall but also a must do for moderats in that area. On white horse, Sea of holes is great. the 5.8 finish is way safer. Inferno 5.8 on the south buttress is a great climb. In the daks, hessitation on Washbowl Cliff is a must do. Easy (for the daks) 5.8 There is a nice 3-4 pitch 5.7 on Hurricane crag. i belive it is called Xenolith? gamesmanship at poco is a must do. Litter finger w/ direct finish on rogers rock, Lake george is a must do. there are more multi pitch 5.7s in the gunks than you can shake a stick at.
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sandstone
Nov 18, 2004, 5:49 PM
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They're not Grade IV's, and they will likely be crowded on the weekends, but on Cathedral Ledge Thin Air and Upper Refuse (climb Pooh or another route to get to it) are great fun. Diving Board on Whitehorse Ledge is another fun route.
Another less crowded but classic route IMO is Endeavor on White's Ledge, also near North Conway, NH.
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edge
Nov 18, 2004, 5:56 PM
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In reply to: anyone got any other good northeast < 5.7 suggestions?
The NE Ridge of Pinnacle Buttress on Mt Washington is a grade III 5.7, but you have a two+ mile approach and descent, a spectacular setting, and it becomes grade IV if you include a summit bid.
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sbclimber
Nov 18, 2004, 5:56 PM
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Epinephrine, Dream of Wild Turkeys(entire route), Sour Mash, Rainbow butress, Frigid Air butress to Northeast Arete, all in Red Rocks.
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shakylegs
Nov 18, 2004, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: In the daks, hessitation on Washbowl Cliff is a must do. Easy (for the daks) 5.8 There is a nice 3-4 pitch 5.7 on Hurricane crag. i belive it is called Xenolith? gamesmanship at poco is a must do.
Hesitation has some pretty tricky placements, however. And scary traverse for the second.
The Hurrican crag climb is Quadrophenia.
Gamesmanship would be stellar but for the 3rd pitch. Personally, I preferred FM.
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sspssp
Nov 18, 2004, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: Northeast Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite is my choice. It has length, awesome cracks of all sizes, breathtaking scenery and exposure. Approach is strenuous but not too bad and descent is mellow. Doesn't require a massive rack either. Get out and do it.
I like this route a lot, also. However, as far as recommending it as a "moderate" I would say that is a potential sandbag. It is only moderate for climbers with wide crack skills--which many climbers don't have.
Now East Buttress of Middle, there is a moderate IV.
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hasbeen
Nov 18, 2004, 6:30 PM
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strange no one's mentioned white punks on dope yet as i've often heard to it referred to the best easy multi-pitch in the country. i don't know about that but it's quite nice and not so crowded.
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dingus
Nov 18, 2004, 6:37 PM
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In reply to: strange no one's mentioned white punks on dope yet as i've often heard to it referred to the best easy multi-pitch in the country. i don't know about that but it's quite nice and not so crowded.
The fact that it is a grade III *may* have something to do with it...
DMT
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hasbeen
Nov 18, 2004, 7:22 PM
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i guess. aren't these all, really? a grade IV nowadays is something like the nose, right? given the approach and descent wpod is about as long as most of these. the hulk and the diamond have big approachs, and some others, but most of these routes get done in a few hours by competent parties. i've done east but of middle in 1.5 hours and 2.5 car to car, so what does that make it? certianly not a real grade IV. i think wpod is at least that committing, plus it's a cool route.
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dingus
Nov 18, 2004, 7:29 PM
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In reply to: i guess. aren't these all, really? a grade IV nowadays is something like the nose, right? given the approach and descent wpod is about as long as most of these. the hulk and the diamond have big approachs, and some others, but most of these routes get done in a few hours by competent parties. i've done east but of middle in 1.5 hours and 2.5 car to car, so what does that make it? certianly not a real grade IV. i think wpod is at least that committing, plus it's a cool route.
The E of Middle is a grade IV based upon average party time. That route is a gumby magnet. After all, people like me climb it! We dumb it down.
And it's what, twice as long as WPOD. You and I both know approach and descent ARE NOT part of the grade system.
Nice job on running up E Butt bro. Sweet!
DMT
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dsafanda
Nov 18, 2004, 7:30 PM
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Any of the trade routes in Zion. Spaceshot, Moonlight and Prodigal are all great moderate IVs in my book. Easy aid(C1 or C2) for anything harder than 5.10.
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