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crackmd
Nov 18, 2004, 5:42 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Everyone's bagging on numbers. I agree that number-chasing is a quick way to burn out on the sport. At the same time numbers are merely a guide for one to bring out their best. Number chasing may seem a bit stupid but the truth is that there will be loads more doable multipitch routes once you can crank 5.10 or 5.11. But for the original question I have only one answer. Try to learn what you like and focus on that. And don't forget to have fun while doing it.
You are right on. It's amazing how much more awesome places like Yosemite and Indian Creek are if you can climb the hard tens and above. I yearn for the awesome, exposed splitters which there are very few of in the less than 5.10 range. Furthermore, it adds to your fun when you don't have to wait in line to do your climb.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 18, 2004, 5:54 PM
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In reply to: I do not want to be one of the new climbers that burns out after a few years; I want to climb as long as my body lets me. From your experience/knowledge/previous mistakes (whatever), what is the one piece of advice you would give to a newer climber? (new climber being one with 0-5 years experience)
I beg to differ that longevity is a good measure of someone's "experience". I have only been climbing for about 2 1/2 years but have gained a lot of skill and knowledge. Although I have trouble considering myself "experienced", I feel that I am lightyears ahead of some people that have been climbing a lot longer than me.
So, here is my advice. Take with a FEW grains of salt:
1. If you get burned out, re-examine your goals. If you are doing for the shear love of it, then that passion is a flame not very easily extinguished.
2. Be a learner of the sport. Soak up as much knowledge as you can, from books, more "experienced" climbers, your own observations, and yes, even this website from time to time.
3. Everything you learn should be passed on to someone else (except bad or unsafe habits). Everyone is a newbie at some point and the only way they transition is from knowleged gained and experience attained.
4. Learn to have fun, whether it is on a 5.5 choss pile or a 5-star classic.
Josh
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slablizard
Nov 18, 2004, 6:06 PM
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There. Dingus said it, frame it and you're good.
If you're still excited to see a piece of rock after 20 years means you're still a kid inside. Stay that way. Be surprised.
And push. I can't understand how people can just be happy climbing 5.9 their whole life, push a little, fall! It's all fun, even if you get scratched.
Lead, lead lead. Fall, curse, relax and lead again. You'll remember every move and that route will became a nice solid memory, compared to just another top-rope.
Get stronger, not just to chase numbers, but to have more toys to play with.
Ciao
In reply to: Have an open mind, avoid dogmatic reactions to new things, TRY new things and most importantly, have fun. If it ceases to be *fun,* you are finished. DMT |
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 6:08 PM
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:D
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jbak
Nov 18, 2004, 6:10 PM
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In reply to: I do not want to be one of the new climbers that burns out after a few years; I want to climb as long as my body lets me. From your experience/knowledge/previous mistakes (whatever), what is the one piece of advice you would give to a newer climber? (new climber being one with 0-5 years experience)
How about "don't kill yourself". If you have a long trad career, you WILL find yourself in situations in which you can "get the chop". Better develop some judgement if you are headed that way.
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sandstone
Nov 18, 2004, 6:25 PM
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To stay happy with climbing I'd say just follow your passion, but make sure you don't confuse your passion with someone elses (i.e. don't get too swayed by what other people are doing, or what you see in print -- those are OK for ideas, but you have to do what makes you happy).
What interests you may change as time goes by, you may try aid, alpine, ice, etc. You may find that what you really like is something you haven't even tried yet. You may find that you like it all...
Someone mentioned that you need to move. I don't necessarily agree with that. Fact is there is more to life than climbing, and I would say a generally happy life helps you enjoy your climbing more and just might help you stick with it longer. If your life (family, friends, career) where you are is positive, don't discount what that is really worth.
In reply to: Among the people I know, those with strong trad backgrounds are much more likely to have a long and positive relationship with climbing.
That's an interesting observation, and I guess it does describe me.
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 6:26 PM
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:D
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dingus
Nov 18, 2004, 6:35 PM
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In reply to: I'm going to risk attack by suggesting that attitude is Wrong.
I won't attack you. Over this anyway, but I'll reserve that right for some of your other 'tudes (lol!).
I've been climbing 31 years, quite active, non of this once a month bs. After 20 years I WAS burnt out and questioning my motives.
My burnout was associated with always pushing, always trying to up the ante and 'progress.' Always getting on routes that challenged me in a variety of ways.
I had to learn that for me that was bull shit. The manifestation of pushing all the time was assimilating the goals of others. I longed to do routes not because of some internal compass but because I was told (in a variety of ways) that I was SUPPOSED to long for them.
I chucked all that shit and decided if I wanted to laze around and do 5.8's after 30 years, I would not hold my head down to ANYONE. I've cranked hard. I've cranked easy.
But most importantly to our discussion, I STILL CRANK.
Our very difference on this highlights the notion that each climber should strive to find their own way, using their own compass.
I truly believe that those who lack the ability to steer their own course will eventually disappear from among our ranks.
Cheers
DMT
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 6:46 PM
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:D
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curt
Nov 18, 2004, 6:47 PM
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In reply to: Some people have suggested in this thread that having fun is the key to longevity in climbing. I'm going to risk attack by suggesting that attitude is Wrong. If you are satisfied settling in to a pattern of heading out once a month to climb with your friends for the next 20 years, and calling that longevity .... that's fine. So is going to the movies with your wife, or walking the dog in the park. But true long term involvement takes passion, and that goes far beyond fun. It requires a bit of obsession. And obsession takes goal orientation in one form or another. Sometimes it isn't fun. But looking back when its all over is very satisfying. Just plain having fun can get boring ....
I don't know about you, but if I went out climbing every weekend and it wasn't fun--I would stop doing it. Doing something for many, many years that isn't fun, sounds more like a job to me that a recreational activity that I would stick with. Of course, we've all had the occasional epic--that wasn't necessarily "fun" at the time.
Curt
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 6:51 PM
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:D
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eastvillage
Nov 18, 2004, 7:20 PM
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I had the good fortune recently to climb a route I hadn't done in 33 years. The climb is Thin Slabs Direct at the Gunks, an overhang with a hand traverse crux. I was with a friend, a new climber and I recommended he try it. He really had fun on the lead and I had an amazing time following him. I was 16 when I first lead this climb and now at 50, it was still a magical, exciting experience. We as climbers are very lucky to have this magic in our lives. Seek it out.
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killclimbz
Nov 18, 2004, 7:21 PM
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In reply to: curt wrote: In reply to: I don't know about you, but if I went out climbing every weekend and it wasn't fun--I would stop doing it. I'm not saying you shouldn't have fun. I'm saying Having Fun is not enough to assure longevity in an activity. If that's all its about, the fun wanes and you move on to the next activity thats newer and funner ....
Fun is the integral part of climbing for myself. I wouldn't do it if I didn't have fun. You are right in that if the fun wanes you'll probably move on to something funner. The thing is that I haven't found anything that is more fun, imo, than climbing.
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alpnclmbr1
Nov 18, 2004, 7:31 PM
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For myself, nothing in climbing is as fun as some sick backcountry powder.
Still though, climbing is way more satisfying overall.
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dingus
Nov 18, 2004, 7:35 PM
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In reply to: For myself, nothing in climbing is as fun as some sick backcountry powder. Still though, climbing is way more satisfying overall.
How can you separate them like that? They are one in the same for me. Skiing IS climbing. So is peak bagging and wilderness travel. Different facets of the same jewel climbing.
DMT
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killclimbz
Nov 18, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #41 of 51
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In reply to: In reply to: For myself, nothing in climbing is as fun as some sick backcountry powder. Still though, climbing is way more satisfying overall. How can you separate them like that? They are one in the same for me. Skiing IS climbing. So is peak bagging and wilderness travel. Different facets of the same jewel climbing. DMT
I look at it this way. I prefer snowboarding in the winter and climbing in the summer. I enjoy both of them equally. It seems when I am starting to get tired of one, it's time to start doing the other.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 18, 2004, 7:43 PM
Post #42 of 51
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In reply to: blueyedclimber wrote: In reply to: I beg to differ that longevity is a good measure of someone's "experience". I have only been climbing for about 2 1/2 years but have gained a lot of skill and knowledge. Although I have trouble considering myself "experienced", I feel that I am lightyears ahead of some people that have been climbing a lot longer than me. I'm sure you're a great climber, but that's not the point. Yes you can get pretty darn experienced in 2 1/2 years, but that kind of push is what leads to Burnout. His question was not about experience but rather about longevity, which is a bit different. At this point, you don't even have a clue if you will even still be climbing in 3 years. Sorry, 2 1/2 years is a noob (not that there's anything wrong with that). Come back to this thread in 15 years and tell us if you're still climbing. :wink:
If I were 17, I would say you are right, but at 33 I have a good idea of what I love and what keeps me empassioned. Aside from making love to my wife, or spending time with my daughter, there is nothing I would rather be doing. Burnout comes from setting unrealistic goals or just the wrong goals. My passion for climbing and gaining knowledge, I believe, is surpassed by few. Now, in no way am I saying that my experience comes close to some of you, but I DO have the experience to contribute to this thread.
Josh
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eastvillage
Nov 18, 2004, 8:00 PM
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I think in 2 1/2 years one could amass a decent amount of experience. In that time you could climb lots of things and become quite accomplished if you tried. Having a loving family adds to that depth.
So, I think blueeyedclimber is on the money.
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asandh
Nov 18, 2004, 8:14 PM
Post #44 of 51
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:D
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johnathon78
Nov 18, 2004, 8:26 PM
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Stick with it and dont get frustrated! Dont think that automatically you will be a better climber than you really are. I started out climbing 5.7 and now I climb 5.10 strong. And it didnt happen overnight. I would also suggest educating yourself as much as possible. The more you know, the better you will become. I learned 1/2 of the stuff that I now know thru books and magazines.
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alpnclmbr1
Nov 18, 2004, 8:44 PM
Post #46 of 51
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In reply to: In reply to: For myself, nothing in climbing is as fun as some sick backcountry powder. Still though, climbing is way more satisfying overall. How can you separate them like that? They are one in the same for me. Skiing IS climbing. So is peak bagging and wilderness travel. Different facets of the same jewel climbing. DMT
In principle, I agree. Reality says that skiing is to hard on my knees and needs to be set aside in the interest of the rest of the above.
I was almost a ski bum when I started climbing. After one day of climbing, I never went skiing again for ten years. My second skiing life pretty much ended shortly after spending three weeks in the Chugach.
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t-dog
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Nov 18, 2004, 9:02 PM
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As Kate said, location is key. I know I haven't been climbing as long as others here (only 3.5 years) but in that time I've plateaued many times and gone through lots of ups and downs. And what's helped me a lot to get through this is diversity! When I'ld get in a slump, I would start sport climbing again, when that reached a dead end, I would go trad climbing for a while, even picked up aid and soloed a wall. The order in which my climbing evolves is not important, but being able to do different kinds of climbing that satisfy in different ways is important.
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adnix
Nov 18, 2004, 9:18 PM
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In reply to: But true long term involvement takes passion, and that goes far beyond fun. It requires a bit of obsession. And obsession takes goal orientation in one form or another. Sometimes it isn't fun. But looking back when its all over is very satisfying. |
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 18, 2004, 10:06 PM
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In reply to: I agree, but that is NOT what the thread is about. He (or You) could be white water kayaking or golfing 3 years from now, and not even thinking about climbing. :wink:
And that could happen if you've been climbing for 20 years. If you knew me, you would not think I would be golfing in 3 years. I am the anti-golfer. All I am saying is that I know myself well enough to know what i am passionate about. A big part of it is that the person I love is also passionate about it and we keep each other motivated.
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andy_reagan
Nov 18, 2004, 10:20 PM
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Is it the thinking or the knowing that is the ego's fault? My guess would be nobody knows anything. The ego thinks it knows everything.
All I know is I am enjoying my present place in the world.
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