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potreroed


Nov 25, 2004, 12:16 AM
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Lynn Hill herself put out a video about her ascent of The Nose. I've seen it but I'm afraid I can't give you any more beta about it except that it exists.


dingus


Nov 25, 2004, 12:30 AM
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In reply to:
Scott burke did in fact TOP ROPE the roof pitch. that is not an FA and everybody knows it. he called it a small blemish but the climbing world does not accept a top rope as an FA. (with the exception of the fly :roll) I guess if you stick clip the first 2 bolts on a 20 ft. rout you can still pretend you didn't top rope it.

I give him credit for what he did, which is truly amazing. And Scott Burke helps illustrate, as well as the dozens of other gifted climbers shut down cold by that pitch, the magnitude of Hill's accomplishment.

I have an old poster of her freeing the last pitch, with her hair blowing in the wind, arms as hard as iron. Kaity asked me one day, "Who is that?"

"Kaity, that's Lynn Hill. She was the best climber in the world. Know what? She's about 5 feet tall." (Kaity has issues with her height... she's 7)

Burke practically lived up there, helping Hill along the way too. He was her belayer most of the time as I recall. I don't think he ever made claim to anything but what he did. His honesty should be applauded?

Cheers Bro
DMT


timstich


Nov 25, 2004, 12:38 AM
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I know this is a tangent, but do you realize if Tycho Brahe did the Nose free, he would be the only person to do it free of a nose.


tradmanclimbs


Nov 25, 2004, 1:30 AM
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Scott may have worked hard and he is honest but he still did not free the nose. that accomplishment belongs to the woman of our time.


Partner happiegrrrl


Nov 25, 2004, 1:33 AM
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Can I ask - has anyone on this thread seen Lynn Hill's hands in real life, and if so - are her hands/fingers really all that small in comparison to other women? I know it is said they are tiny, and on her book "Climbing Free," the back cover has a photo of her palm in actual size. When I place my hand on that photo, it is very nearly identical in size, all around (finger lengths, width, palm etc.), and I don't think anyone would ever comment that my hands are overly small.

Even though Lynn Hill's hand size has been commented on all over the place, and I can see how nearly any man will have larger digits, I have to wonder if it's simply inaccurate to suggest her small fingers are of such significance to her success on that climb.

Surely there have been other female climbers with small hands and fingers who've made attempts at at least parts of the climb where it has been said Lynn's fingers made the difference, no?


fracture


Nov 25, 2004, 1:37 AM
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Hill said 13b, right? Either Lynn Hill is just very well suited to the climb, or this is one of the greatest sandbags in the history of climbing 8^).

I heard Yuji Hirayama thought that the Great Roof was 5.14a, and he has onsighted 5.14b and come pretty close to onsighting el cap by various routes.


iamthewallress


Nov 25, 2004, 1:38 AM
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Surely there have been other female climbers with small hands and fingers who've made attempts at at least parts of the climb where it has been said Lynn's fingers made the difference, no?

FWIW...One of the cruxes doesn't even involve a finger crack (the Changing Corners "houdini" bit).

And...If Scott Burke, who is a short but burly dude, can do the Great Roof on TR, then it can be done by someone who most likely has much bigger mitts than Lynn Hill.


akicebum


Nov 25, 2004, 1:52 AM
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A couple of answers to questions and things that have been said that are incorrect. First, Hill is the only person to free the nose. She is the only person to free the nose in a day (this ascent was filmed and is for sale as on VHS). Scott was able to lead the changing corners pitch and top roped the roof, but was never able to link the pitches.
Hill states in her bio that her finger size was an important factor in climbing the route. The fact that she has smaller hands should not overlook the fact that she led what is quite possibly the hardest "free" climb on El Cap. These Allstars that have been tearing down aid routes left and right have been unable to repeat her ascent even though they have climbed routes like Zodiac to which they attach the notorious 13+/14-. Lynn said the nose went at 13c.
If there is anything wrong with any of the affore mentioned info let me know. But this is true from the material that I have read, although climbing gossip can be misleading from time to time.


karlbaba


Nov 25, 2004, 3:39 AM
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Scott's effort was very inspirational because he wasn't a very strong climber when he started (except compared to me) and just got better and better as he worked on it. Compared to the elite climbers, he's just not as talented so that makes his tenacity admirable.

Iker Pou worked on the Nose this year. I hear he got the roof free but couldn't do changing corners. Expect his return

Peace

karl


jsj42


Nov 25, 2004, 3:59 AM
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It's been said by a few people in this thread that Scott "did not free the nose," presumably the top rope on the Great Roof being the primary objection?

It's my understanding that free climbing means not aiding. By that definition, I'd say Scott has freed the nose.

Otherwise you could say that anyone who has swung leads hasn't freed a climb.

Or you could say that anyone who has hung from a bolted belay hasn't freed a climb.

He says himself that he isn't satisfied with the style in which he did it (he wants to do it in a day, in better weather, not TR'ing a pitch). Lynn Hill's ascent is obviously light years beyond Scott's ascent in terms of style - redpointing every pitch in a one push, one day effort (and requiring only a fraction of the time to work on it that Scott has put in)...

Yes, Scott TR'd a pitch. Yes, Scott hasn't redpointed the nose. But I think it's incorrect to simply say "he didn't free it."


akicebum


Nov 25, 2004, 8:15 AM
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Are you off your meds? If someone TR's a 15a but can't lead a 14b does that mean that they are a 15 climber. I can climb at least two grades harder when on top rope. I don't care what school of thought you come from, but a if a line needs to be FIXED in order to climb the line then there is nothing free about it.


curt


Nov 25, 2004, 8:20 AM
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Are you off your meds? If someone TR's a 15a but can't lead a 14b does that mean that they are a 15 climber. I can climb at least two grades harder when on top rope. I don't care what school of thought you come from, but a if a line needs to be FIXED in order to climb the line then there is nothing free about it.

Obviously, you have no idea what the term "free climbing" means.

Curt


slcliffdiver


Nov 25, 2004, 9:56 AM
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What new route has steph done on El Cap? I actually don't know of any of her FFA's or FA's in Yosemite (not to say that there aren't any, of course. I just haven't heard about them.) I always see her name associated with hard repeats.

Freed Free Rider in a day http://climbing.com/news/davisfeciad/.


thinksinpictures


Nov 25, 2004, 10:14 AM
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always see [Steph] name associated with hard repeats.

Freed Free Rider in a day http://climbing.com/news/davisfeciad/.

Davis' ascent of Freerider is unarguably a repeat, and certainly hard by most climbers' standards, so if you were trying to prove thewallress wrong, it kinda backfired. Perhaps you were simply trying to back up her claim; if so, my mistake.

Is anyone aware of any other athletic accomplishment by a woman, in any other sport, that no man has been able to replicate?


slcliffdiver


Nov 25, 2004, 11:02 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
always see [Steph] name associated with hard repeats.

Freed Free Rider in a day http://climbing.com/news/davisfeciad/.

Davis' ascent of Freerider is unarguably a repeat, and certainly hard by most climbers' standards, so if you were trying to prove thewallress wrong, it kinda backfired. Perhaps you were simply trying to back up her claim; if so, my mistake.

Is anyone aware of any other athletic accomplishment by a woman, in any other sport, that no man has been able to replicate?

Don't know if I should blame it on declining memory or reading comprehension (from reading the article).

Wasn't trying to prove her wrong or back up her claim. Just trying to answer a question albeit with an invalid answer. I thought most people just missed "hearing" iamthewallress's question and it got lost in the thread. Instead I was just wrong.


gunkiemike


Nov 25, 2004, 2:10 PM
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In reply to:
He says himself that he isn't satisfied with the style in which he did it (he wants to do it in a day, in better weather, not TR'ing a pitch). Lynn Hill's ascent is obviously light years beyond Scott's ascent in terms of style - redpointing every pitch in a one push, one day effort (and requiring only a fraction of the time to work on it that Scott has put in)...

It's been what, two years since SB's ascent? I would have thought that pitch would be dry by now. :wink:

Methinks that pitch is just bloody HARD. Kudos to Lynn for being so modest re. the difficulty of her accomplishment. History is being written with each subsequent attempt by 5.14 climbers. The Nose is certainly harder than 13c. Compare Lynn's "sandbag" with the sporto's who claim a too-big number for their latest project. Specifically I'm thinking of that guy who claimed a huge jump a while back, I think it was to a 9c/5.15c.


karlbaba


Nov 25, 2004, 3:58 PM
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I think it's kinda lame that Hill sandbagged the Nose so severely. It's obviously not 13b or it would have been done before and afterwards. It's also lame that for awhile it seemed the only acceptable rating for an El Cap free route was 13b. Kinda strike anyone as funny that Yosemite only has one or two 5.14 pitches? Climbing must be much easier here than in the rest of the country.

That being said, Hill ascent should go down in history as one of the proudest milestones in the history of women's sports and of climbing in general. As far as I'm concerned, she didn't get enough credit.

Peace

karl


Partner tradman


Nov 25, 2004, 5:44 PM
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Is anyone aware of any other athletic accomplishment by a woman, in any other sport, that no man has been able to replicate?

Nadia Comaneci's perfect scores in gymnastics at the Montreal Olympics have never been equalled.


fracture


Nov 25, 2004, 7:01 PM
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Kinda strike anyone as funny that Yosemite only has one or two 5.14 pitches?

Not really.

Doing 5.14 is hard enough starting off the ground. Doing it in the middle of a ~30 pitch route is just sick.

According to this, Freerider has had maybe under a dozen free ascents, and it's "only" 5.12d/5.13a. 8^)


karlbaba


Nov 25, 2004, 8:09 PM
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Yosemite has a lot more rock right off the ground than most climbing areas that team with 5.14s. We don't even need to talk about 30 pitches up. In fact, the vast majority of Yosemite 5.13 is many pitches up rather than right off the ground.

Is it that granite is just sandbagged, or just easy?

Peace

karl


fracture


Nov 25, 2004, 9:45 PM
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In reply to:
Yosemite has a lot more rock right off the ground than most climbing areas that team with 5.14s. We don't even need to talk about 30 pitches up. In fact, the vast majority of Yosemite 5.13 is many pitches up rather than right off the ground.

Point.

In reply to:
Is it that granite is just sandbagged, or just easy?

Methinks perhaps it doesn't generally lend itself to super-difficulty in the same way as other types of rock.

For example, at my local granite crag (Enchanted Rock), the hardest route is a 5.13a/b. There is simply no realistic potential for routes significantly harder than that anywhere in the park, unless you were to chip them into some of the blank overhangs (which there aren't even very many of).

For that matter, how many 5.13 and up free climbs in Yosemite are unchipped? All these aid routes going free on El Cap are chipped, either through repeated scarring with pitons or deliberately (the nose). I've heard a rumor of deliberate scarring to make holds at the bottom of Phoenix (you'll probably know more about the veracity of this than I). Does natural granite even get as difficult as the difficult free climbs in Yosemite?


degaine


Nov 25, 2004, 11:22 PM
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thinksinpictures asked: “Is anyone aware of any other athletic accomplishment by a woman, in any other sport, that no man has been able to replicate?”

To answer your question, I believe the well-known open water swimmer, Lynne Cox, has a few accomplishments of this nature to her credit. She has set a few English Channel records man or woman, and is the only person ever to swim one-mile in Antarctic waters wearing only a standard bathing suit.

These sites explain her accomplishments in greater detail:

http://www.doversolo.com/antarctica.htm

http://www.doversolo.com/lynnecox.htm

http://www.ishof.org/00lcox.html

Hope these prove interesting!

(This post was edited by degaine on Jul 8, 2007, 8:55 PM)


karlbaba


Nov 26, 2004, 8:44 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Yosemite has a lot more rock right off the ground than most climbing areas that team with 5.14s. We don't even need to talk about 30 pitches up. In fact, the vast majority of Yosemite 5.13 is many pitches up rather than right off the ground.

Point.

In reply to:
Is it that granite is just sandbagged, or just easy?

Methinks perhaps it doesn't generally lend itself to super-difficulty in the same way as other types of rock.

For example, at my local granite crag (Enchanted Rock), the hardest route is a 5.13a/b. There is simply no realistic potential for routes significantly harder than that anywhere in the park, unless you were to chip them into some of the blank overhangs (which there aren't even very many of).

For that matter, how many 5.13 and up free climbs in Yosemite are unchipped? All these aid routes going free on El Cap are chipped, either through repeated scarring with pitons or deliberately (the nose). I've heard a rumor of deliberate scarring to make holds at the bottom of Phoenix (you'll probably know more about the veracity of this than I). Does natural granite even get as difficult as the difficult free climbs in Yosemite?

For me the bottom line is that elite climbers come to Yosemite and it's not easy for them. Iker Pou has climbed 5.15 but can't free the 13b Nose? It not the finger size cause he got the great roof. Huber's and Caldwell have climbed stacks of 5.14 and the things they do in Yosemite are no picnic to them. They work as hard getting 13b to 13d in Yosemite as they do getting 14c elsewhere.

The one 14b in Yosemite, Magic Line, has zero repeats although several 5.14 climbers have tried. Hardest pitch in Yosemite. You'd think somebody would want the second ascent.

It leads me to suspect that's it's just common practice to sandbag the upper grades of granite. I could be wrong, and what would it really matter anyway. It is what it is. It could be that really hard granite climbing is kinda miserable due to tiny edges and tiny cracks, and not as fun as cranking overhanging limestone.

Peace

karl


thinksinpictures


Nov 26, 2004, 10:54 AM
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I believe the well-known open water swimmer, Lynne Cox, has a few accomplishments of this nature to her credit. She has set a few English Channel records man or woman, and is the only person ever to swim one-mile in Antarctic waters wearing only a standard bathing suit.

In reply to:
Lynne is the purist of marathon swimmers. She does not wear a wet suit in frigid water and does not use a cage in shark infested waters. Her swims in Iceland’s 40 degree F Lake Myzvtan and Alaska’s 38 degree F Glacier Bay, where the lead boat had to break a path in the one quarter inch ice, were done wearing only a swim suit, cap and goggles. She wanted to do more than just achieve times and set records. And she did. But in the process, she became the fastest person to swim the English Channel (1972 and again in 1973), the first person to swim the Straits of Magellan (Chile) 4-1/2 miles, 42 degree F (1976), Norway to Sweden, 15 miles 44 degree F (1976), three bodies of water in the Aleutian Islands (USA) 8 miles total, 44 degree F (1977) and around the Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) 10 miles, 70 degree F which attracted sharks, jellyfish and sea snakes (1978). Many other swims included Lake Biakal in the Soviet Union (1988), the Beagle Channel of Argentina and Chile (1990) and around the Japanese Island of Joga Shima. In 1994 at the age of 37 years, she swam the Gulf of Aqaba in the Red Sea joining the 15 miles of 80-degree water between Egypt, Israel and Jordan. She has swum Lake Titicaca in the Andes Mountains, the world’s highest navigable lake.

DAMN.


Partner tradman


Nov 26, 2004, 11:57 AM
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The one 14b in Yosemite, Magic Line, has zero repeats although several 5.14 climbers have tried. Hardest pitch in Yosemite. You'd think somebody would want the second ascent.

There are loads of unrepeated 5.14b routes. Most of the top routes in the grade are unrepeated, for a variety of reasons, in fact only 7 or so routes in the 8c+/9a have seen a second ascent.

It doesn't mean yosemite's a "hard area", it just means the route is very hard which is why it got a 14b, right?

Is Le Perigord a "hard area" because Fred Rhouling's "Akira" is there?

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