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vscalex
Nov 29, 2004, 8:27 PM
Post #1 of 8
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 14
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Directions:
Start as if you are hiking to WWI. After you have reached the top of the steep trail from the parking lot you will come to an obvious trail on your right (I believe this is the trail to WWII). Follow this trail for about 3-4 minutes until you come to a 90 degree right-hand turn. Don't turn walk straight in to the woods. After entering the tree line you can readily see boulder "A" up the hill. Walk up the hill, past boulder "A" on the left side. Once on top of the hill, the Thug's Mansion boulder is oriented at 2 O'Clock roughly 100 yds further. The Panoply boulder is at about 11 O'Clock, roughly 150 yards.
Mt. Si, bouldering in the Boulder Garden.
Edition 1.
Ethics:
---Do not boulder @ the WW1 boulders. These rocks have been deemed as restricted, probably due to their close proximity to the main Mt. Si trail.
---The trails are somewhat apparent please try to employ them to keep impact to a minimum.
---No chipping, resin (not that you’d need it), and please do not epoxy holds on to the boulders.
The boulders:
---The boulders are roughly the same type of rock as the rest of SI.
---The boulders are generally higher in nature, ranging between 10-30ft at the lip. Landings are flat and mossy.
---All of the problems top-out. Given the high nature of the boulders, spotters and pads are advised.
---The boulders have mostly crimps with a few pinches and slopers thrown in.
---The top-outs are relatively clean, but you may want to give them a quick brush prior to sending.
---Pulling in the Garden can be dangerous. Unless you're willing to risk life and limb pulling on mossy rocks, don't do it.
A.
The first boulder you come to 25-30’ in height.
1. V2/3. project.
B.
1. V1 Sit- start on slopers near the arête, go up.
2. V3 Sit- start on the right side of the rail. Traverse left to the block hold. Up to the lip top out.
C. Thug’s Mansion boulder. This was the first boulder cleaned in the “Garden” several classic lines.
1. V2 First problem as you approach the boulder is situated roughly on the South-East. Sit-start on crimps up to the sloper, more crimps, and top-out.
2. V2 “Thug’s Passion” (Right of #1 about 20ft) Start on the obvious jugs at head or shoulder height. Big move to a solid crimp; side pulls and up.
a. V5 Sit start to the down and left of #2 on a diagonal crimp. Burl move up to an opposing crimp. Same top-out as #2.
3. V4 (Right of number #2 about 10ft) Sit-start on a solid 2 pad crimp. Moving through crimps to the vertical bulge with under-clings and side pulls on the right side of the bulge, up and top-out.
4. V7 Thug’s Mansion (the obvious tall arête starting about 4ft from #3). The best problem on this boulder. Start matched on the obvious triangle hold @ waste height. Move right around the arête to a smallish pinch. Move straight up through the crimps to the lightning bolt hold. Reach right to a sloper and top-out.
5. V3 (Starts right of #4 about 8ft). Left hand on an obvious crimp and right hand side-pull. Straight up, same top-out as #4.
6. V0 Jugs and up.
D. Vertical wall.
1. V3 (Standing at Thug’s look right; separate-vertical wall, about 12-14ft. high) Surprisingly fun problem. Starts left hand on a good crimp, right on a small sloper right of the crimp, straight-up and top-out.
E. 45 degree wall. Shortest boulder in the Garden (10 ft. @ the lip. Facing Thug’s Mansion, turn to about 8 O’clock, walk 100 ft. to a boulder slightly up the hill).
1. V7. Same start as #2. Travers left on the two small crimps to the horn looking hold and up to slopers at the lip.
2. V5 Middle right (as your facing the wall) start on the full-pad left crimp and smaller right side-pull. Traverse through the next two crimps moving right to good holds and top-out.
F. Panoply boulder. Great boulder. With powerful problems.
1. V5 Sit- Start in the white quartzite rock to the middle- right of the boulder. Left micro-crimp and right 1-pad side-pull. Left to crimp, right to under-cling/ side-pull. Move left same exit as #2.
2. V9 “Panoply” Definition “The complete arms and armor of a warrior.” This problem has it all. Currently the hardest problem in the area. When it was discovered some weak mo’ fo’ had epoxied three holds onto various parts of the beginning sequence. Rest assured, the holds have subsequently been removed. Sit start far left under the roof. Left hand bad pinch, right hand three-two finger pinch/under-cling. Pull left hand to the obvious crimp above your head traverse right several moves and top-out
G. Atlas boulder.
1. V6 “Atlas” you’ll shoulders like the namesake to pull this problem. Sit-start far right on under- clings. Reach left back to Gaston/ feet-up/ right to the slot and up over the bulges/ top-out. (slightly contrived the choss to the right of the start is off.)
H. new boulder to be cleaned.
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arelvis
Feb 19, 2005, 5:36 PM
Post #2 of 8
(6773 views)
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Registered: Jun 26, 2004
Posts: 2
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Glad to see there's 'found' and disclosed bouldering this close to Seattle. When I moved here from Colorado, everyone I asked said there's no bouldering to speak of, but I knew there had to be some nearby. If anyone has a 'better' map maybe this area can be developed well and ropeless climbers will have something to work-out on. Lets just keep the access available ( read: dont make a mess and blow it for everyone). I may not have to move back to Colorado after all.
p.s. anyone know any good Mexican restaurants around here?
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havndzine
Apr 9, 2005, 12:09 AM
Post #3 of 8
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Registered: Apr 6, 2005
Posts: 16
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I as well would like to thank you for the disclosure of the area. It is too damn secretive around here with the bouldering. I moved here from the midwest where we tell everyone about every damn boulder we find. Even if the things 8 feet tall with pockets everywhere. I took me a year to find the boulders near Goldbar and still havn't found them all. Perhaps I'll start a Seattle Urbanite guide to bouldering. There is no guide to speak of and it is really hard to get to 11worth for a quick day of climbing. :wink:
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jookyhead
Apr 9, 2005, 12:56 AM
Post #4 of 8
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Registered: Jun 2, 2003
Posts: 667
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I gotta say, I've been here and it's nothing to write home about. There's a reason that it's not frequented by people; the effort it would take to clean the boulders wouldn't be worth it. I don't mean to naysay, but don't get your hopes up on this one.
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arelvis
May 4, 2005, 2:51 PM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Jun 26, 2004
Posts: 2
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Nice photos.. which boulder is the 5th picture, the one with the rail? Also, who goes and when? I usually go up on Tues or Wed and rarely run into anyone.
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thebeetle
Feb 13, 2007, 5:00 PM
Post #8 of 8
(5486 views)
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Registered: Sep 6, 2006
Posts: 12
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sweet dude! Thanks for the info. I never got around to exploring too much out there. I'll have to go take a look...been looking for some way to get back in shape. How long do you think the rocks stay clean? need more traffic? Anybody see that cnt with the epoxy, put a rock through his skull will ya! 
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