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opheliaascending
Jan 26, 2005, 10:43 PM
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So, I had my first near death experience and I learned a lesson, but I'm wondering if anybody would have any positive (yes, I said positive) input on what happened.
We were climbing at a local choss pile, basalt, I'm told. We had noticed there was some small rockfall in the area, so were on the lookout for more. My partner was getting ready to climb a very easy route and noticed that there was a pretty large boulder that would come down very soon. So, he knocked it down. (There was no danger to anyone else as we could see exactly where it would come to a rest down a steep hill and into a stream.) So, we climbed for a little while on other routes and then moved over to the one where the boulder had been dislodged. Everything seemed stable. I was belaying about 10 feet down from the start of the route off of a gentle cliff. My climber went up without incident and then decided to climb down. I don't remember much except I blinked and suddenly there was a huge boulder headed dead for me. The boulder hit another rock at the top of the dropoff I was under and split into two, with debris. I guess I did a little touchdown dance, grabbed onto the rope with my left hand, and swung out of the way to safety. My brake hand for belaying never loosened, I'm relieved to state.
I didn't puke, but almost did. I wasn't the bravest climber that day. :?
One thing that I came away with is that I won't anchor myself when belaying on ground anymore. My partner outweighs me by about 140 lbs, so I'm learning how to catch him without my feet leaving the ground from a more experienced climber.
I guess one question is, should we have left the first boulder alone and up to nature to knock over? Our thinking was to save anyone else from getting hurt. Even if we had just steered clear of that route that day.
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adamd
Jan 26, 2005, 11:15 PM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2004
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trundling is part of climbing, obviously when it's safe only and you can confirm the runout below the rockfall is clear. No need to be gratuitous about it, but big loose rocks on climbs are asking to go for a ride. Wonder why all those well travelled climbing areas are so clean? Most likely you can thank the FA.
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chalkytoast
Feb 4, 2005, 9:55 AM
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as we preparred for our first climb of tibigagan in the glass house mountains just north of brisbane, i questionedc the need to wear helmets as we hiked to the climb andas i discussed oit with a woman i was climbing with she explained that she just wore one because shes lways been taught to expect the unexpected.
seeings she was older tyhan me i figured id better take her advice so i wore my helmet for the hike from the road. before i even had a chance t question my decision we heard a rumble from above us, 30 or so metres up the 50 degree slope. it was only one dirt rock rolling down about the size of a softball.
unbelievably as the rock approached we were ready to avoid it, but 2 metres away it hit a root and bounced into the air. and slammed my wise friend in the top of the head. it seems so harmless rolling towards us but the friggin thing cracked her helmet!!!
i hate to think what wouldve happed if she had listened to me.
a great experience for me to learn from and a chance for me to thank all the golden oldies for showing us youngens the path to survival.
thanks guys!
ct carney
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azrockclimber
Feb 4, 2005, 1:04 PM
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Glad to hear you made it.
If that boulder was a substatial size and it was in danger of falling, which oviously it was, I would have cleared it but on rap from above with nobody at the base. Falling rock and boulders have a tendancy to do exactly the opposite of what I think will happen so If somethings gotta come off I never want to be underneath it.
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climbsomething
Feb 4, 2005, 6:05 PM
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In reply to: My partner outweighs me by about 140 lbs, so I'm learning how to catch him without my feet leaving the ground from a more experienced climber. |
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boadman
Feb 4, 2005, 7:09 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: My partner outweighs me by about 140 lbs, so I'm learning how to catch him without my feet leaving the ground from a more experienced climber. Sorry, you can't catch him without your feet coming off the ground. Physics simply don't work that way. Consider just not belaying somebody who outweighs you by 140 lbs...
That's not the point. The real issue is that it's fine for your feet to leave the ground. The best belayers give a delightfully soft catch by executing a little jump as the climber starts to weight the rope, allowing them to slow gradually to a stop. There are obviously situations where ledges or hungry tigers make the dynamic belay undesirable, but in general, a dynamic belay is always better. My favorite belayer (for more than one reason) is my girlfriend who I outweigh by about 80 pounds.
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