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Re: [overlord] Yo Yo - definition please:
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eddie_munster
Nov 26, 2006, 11:16 PM
Views: 16677
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 78
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overlord wrote: yoyoing is used when you fall on overhanging terrain and want to get back onto the rock. when youre not able to reach the face at the same height, the only sollution is to either go down or up. well, if you decide to go up (to the upmost piece of pro), you pull yourself up a bit with your hands using the rope. then, as you release the rope, you have the belayer take in the slack your pulling up has created. you do fall a short distance during the release, but a good leader/belayer team can gain height pretty fast using this method.
this is not really a yo-yo. You are describing "boinking" up a rope while working a route.
A Yo-Yo was a popular mode of ascent, especially amongst trad climbers, in the late 80's - early "90's. When you fall you lower to the ground, but keep the rope going through the last piece so that you don't have to clean the route and re-place your gear on the way back up. This ethic stemmed from traddies of the day disavowing hangdogging. If you fell, you had to lower down. Ground up ethics.
This mode of ascent went by the wayside, as more trad climbers took to hangdogging, and now many hard trad climbs are redpointed. Nobody reports yo-yo's anymore.
(This post was edited by eddie_munster on Nov 26, 2006, 11:18 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by eddie_munster
() on Nov 26, 2006, 11:18 PM
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