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Re: [socialclimber] Yo Yo - definition please:
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healyje
Nov 28, 2006, 2:30 AM
Views: 16431
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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The standard ethic in the '70s as I experienced it in all the places I climbed was you lower to the belay and pull the rope. We tended to associate "sieging" with longer routes where folks came back again and again to their high point. "Yo-yoing" we typcially associated with folks who fell repeatedly without pulling thier ropes which then often gave way to simply dogging their way up a route.
But not making it up a pitch, pulling the rope, and releading it should not in anyway be considered analogous with "pre-placing pro". A pitch may legitimately end up that way in a ground up ascent after a fall - but that is dramatically different in intent from pre-placing pro - and intent is what it's all about in this case. Falling and pulling the rope means it wasn't a "clean" ascent, whereas pre-placing gear makes it a "sprad" ascent.
In general, no one is leading trad 14b-d/E9's without somehow 'working' the routes solidly in some form or another (TRing, pre-placeing gear, lots of previous dogged ascents, etc.) . It's a remarkable accomplishment no matter how it's done, but I haven't heard of a 'pure' trad ground up, unrehearsed hard 14. And by unrehearsed I don't mean a couple of tries, I mean a lot of goes at a route. But still, watching Trotter on Cobra Crack is a sight to behold...
(This post was edited by healyje on Nov 28, 2006, 2:37 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by healyje
() on Nov 28, 2006, 2:33 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Nov 28, 2006, 2:36 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on Nov 28, 2006, 2:37 AM
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