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Re: [jumpingrock] I got in trouble today:
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petsfed
Jan 22, 2007, 6:36 PM
Views: 1553
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
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Now, everything else he said, he was totally talking out of his ass. Bolt hangers spin because they are designed not to bind on the bolt itself, like a washer. So falling to the side won't loosen the bolt anyway. Bolts are weaker if the pull is parallel to the bolt, but no so much anymore that its a major problem (and and if he's using bolts that are significantly weakened like that, he's violating his insurance agreement and he knows it). Also, taking is taking up the slack. By any means necessary. What he describes is the process of breaking a fall.
jumpingrock wrote: At this point I was pretty pissed because I don't like being distracted (or having my climber distracted) in the middle of climbing a difficult route. In addition I couldn't and still can't believe that I did anything wrong. (So I got a bit angry and yelled back at him)
But this is something else. Were I you, I would've come up to him after the fact and explained in very polite terms that your number one concern is the climber, and if he wants to keep distracting you while you're belaying, then it his fault, and not yours, if somebody gets hurt. Your (questionably) un-safe practices are neatly trumped by the fact that this guy decided his theories were more important than your climber's safety.
Even if he is the owner, he doesn't know jack about the subject matter, and he's increasing the chances of an accident by doing so. I mean arrows indicating how to fall? Who has the presence of mind to follow those while in freefall?
(This post was edited by petsfed on Jan 22, 2007, 6:37 PM)
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Post edited by petsfed
() on Jan 22, 2007, 6:37 PM
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