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Re: [thelockdude] first lead fall:
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the_shoe
Jun 6, 2007, 2:56 PM
Views: 7099
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 152
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I'd have to say that there probaly is no better place to take your first fall from then a small little roof section.
I took my first gear fall on a sand bagged 5.5 at Joshua Tree. The start of the 5.5 was also shared with the start of a 5.7 and I believe they shared one of the same cruxes. Which would be this 3 foot roof that was about 15 feet off the ground right above the block that detached from it. I had learned form my mentor and from the Long books to always protect well what you perceive to be the crux move of a route. The moves on this crux were kind of like the Great Roof on the nose. You traverse under the roof on fingers and reach over the roof to a fist jam and pull over. I was able to protect the traverse with two small cam placements that I equalized with a 48" sling and a sliding X, so that if I fell from any part of the traverse it would function as a belay anchor and equalize the gear on the fall. I made it through the traverse and was able to nail the first jam and place a #3 C4. It was trying to lie back the crack to gain the roof when my foot popped and I came off. First lead fall out of the way!
As I said there is no better place to fall then on a roof move, as I was hanging I got to really see how my gear and slings held and evaluate what I had done and what I would do in the future.
Props to going for it. You should find a wave of confidence will follow this fall. Just turn the confidence in to knowing when presented with a difficult move you will have the knowledge to protect it well giving you the ability to push your limit. And not the other way around.
If I can give you one bit of advice to help your chances of not falling. When you are taking a trip to climb, don't post a bunch of links here for videos of other people falling. I did and this story is what happened that same weekend. I haven't fallen since. Karma is a bitch.
(This post was edited by the_shoe on Jun 6, 2007, 2:59 PM)
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Post edited by the_shoe
() on Jun 6, 2007, 2:59 PM
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