reno
Dec 19, 2007, 3:21 PM
Views: 5514
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
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evanwish wrote: so then the question comes to "who do you trust?"
I think the question is (or, rather, should be) "Do you know the strengths and weaknesses of various anchoring methods, and can you apply that knowledge to the real climbing world?"
I have probably anchored in a dozen different ways: rope to a powerpoint.... two slings girthed to my harness and clipped to bolts.... a rope wrap around a BMFT*..... rope to five individual pieces with cloves all the way around..... two quick draws from harness to bolts.... double ropes, one each to a different ice screw, and a daisy to my ice tool.... and so forth.
Each has it's upside, each has a downside.
What I think RGold is saying (and I trust he'll correct me if I'm wrong,) is that for MOST climbers in MOST situations MOST of the time, using the rope to anchor offers the best balance of safety, simplicity, and utility.
And he's correct.
(*BMFT = Big Mutha Fukkin' Tree)
(This post was edited by reno on Dec 19, 2007, 7:03 PM)
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