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Re: [jt512] Quickdraw Concepts/Theory:
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ja1484
Jan 24, 2008, 10:23 PM
Views: 1625
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
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jt512 wrote: I already said. No probabilities should be considered. It should be considered deterministic. We're talking Newtonian mechanics, not quantum mechanics. After 4 weeks of high school physics one should be able to calculate that the force of a fall before clipping the 2nd bolt of a typical sport climb with a static belay will exceed 6 kN. That's it. Done.
Note the use of qualifiers: Typical sport climb, static belay. What about dynamic belay? What about an atypical sport climb?
Look, I agree with you in spirit - that there are better options than what the OP suggested for the purpose he's asking about. I'm just saying that these types of decisions really need to be made onsite, in action. That's all.
Anyhoo, in an effort to put this to rest, I've edited my original post to be more clear on the subject. I hope this allows you to sleep soundly tonight.
In reply to: That has nothing to do with the decision of what gear to buy for sport climbing. Please drop this line of reasoning. It is too ridiculous to continue replying to.
What's suitable being a personal decision has nothing to do with gear purchase?
In reply to: That question is irrelevant. The relevant question is whether I want a 6 kN biner below me or a 10 kN biner.
I'd rephrase to "Am I willing to risk a 6kN biner below me?"
In reply to: I'm looking at the question in the OP's context.
More the implications, i.e. he's asking questions about gear, so most of the discussion is about what's best for the job, which is all well and good. But he asked, in part, about ovals on both ends of a draw, and why couldn't you use that.
Well, in some situations, you could, and in others, many others, it's definitely a bottom-of-the-barrel choice. I didn't see him mention specifically that he was going to use all this gear for sport climbing only (although there are allusions, and the odds are good considering that's how most people break into the sport), so I just put the pro/con out there for Ovals - namely that they work for most applications but are substantially weaker than Asymm Ds or Ds, and I hope that would be considered by default depending on usage.
hafilax wrote: Repeated falls onto a bolt will roughen the surface of the biner. This can wear on the rope if you turn the quickdraw around. Probably not a big deal in the end but it's nice to minimize wear on the rope.
Agreed, and even more worrisome, sometimes repeated falls onto a single bolt-end biner can cause more than just rough surfaces, but even sharp edges.
For this reason among others, it's a good idea to have dedicated bolt/gear end biners, dedicated rope end biners, and general use biners (that you inspect regularly, as you should with all your gear) for whatever needs doing.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Jan 24, 2008, 10:29 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by ja1484
() on Jan 24, 2008, 10:25 PM
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Post edited by ja1484
() on Jan 24, 2008, 10:29 PM
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