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Re: [shorty] Why build climbing gear with high KN rating:
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majid_sabet
Feb 16, 2008, 2:17 AM
Views: 2681
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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shorty wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Why waste so much money and material building something that is way above our maximum falling forces? This is exactly why I use plastic keychain 'biners, closeline cord for rope, an old jock strap for a harness, cedar shims for pins (we don't need no stinkin' cams), and my trusty Cubs baseball cap for a helmet. Lordy, I miss this website. I really, really miss the discourse on thought-provoking issues. You know -- the intelligent questions raised by experienced climbers. If only I could spend less time dealing with issues at the office, I could see threads like this all day. That would be so totally, uber cool.
if you ask me, why fire and rescue people use high rating gear, I could easily tell you that In USA fire services , the minmum safety factor is 15:1 and generally, a fire man is consider as 1 kN.If he is going down the line to rescue another man who is 1KN, his biner has to be at least 30 KN or more to support two. You will not see a fire man on a climber biner rapping down the side of building if his biner is rated to 18KN . The 15:1 safety factor, unofficially has been set as an standard by agencies such as NFPA which overseas some of the standards for rescue gear.
What kind of safety factors standard do you have out there for climbers ?
3:1 , 5:1 ?
Does anyone know what safety factor most climber go by ?
Do you build your anchor so it could handel your weight or you build it so it could take 10x of your falling forces ?
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 16, 2008, 2:18 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by majid_sabet
() on Feb 16, 2008, 2:18 AM
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