Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [majid_sabet] Why build climbing gear with high KN rating: Edit Log




patto


Feb 16, 2008, 6:31 AM

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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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Re: [majid_sabet] Why build climbing gear with high KN rating
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majid_sabet wrote:
In climbing, there are no such standard or at least no one builds an anchor or uses a biner with such safety factors in mind. Most people feel that two cams in the crack and leaving one draw on TR does the job and there they go off the wall.

I am confident that most manufacturer know why they build their gear in such ways, but does public has any idea why these ratings are for ?.

Do we feel safer with a gear rated 5 times more than what we could generate during a fall ?

As has already been explained the upper limit of forces on top pieces already start approaching the limits of pieces. The safety factor is less than 2 for severe falls.

Also all kN ratings are in ideal circumstances I would like a bit of extra strength for non ideal loading of the equipment.

chalker7 wrote:
Thanks for the correction. When I said dynamic force, I think I should have been saying shock loading. Is shock loading measured differently than other kinds of force, i.e. a different unit? I'm not arguing I'm just asking, because the way I understand it a 225 lb or 1kN person does not weigh in at 1kN when loading the rope immediately after a fall, while they still weigh 225 lbs. Or am I misusing weight for mass in that scenario?

There is only one force measurement.

A person's "weight" depends on gravity and his/her mass. Neither changes during a fall so a climbers weight never changes.

Talking about a persons weight in this circumstance is not really appropriate. The climber's MASS is constant at 100kg. The force loads the rope depends on the deceleration of the climber which depends on the elacticity of the rope and the rest of the system.

The units for measuring shock is ms-3 but that isn't really relevant here.


(This post was edited by patto on Feb 16, 2008, 6:54 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by patto () on Feb 16, 2008, 6:39 AM
Post edited by patto () on Feb 16, 2008, 6:47 AM
Post edited by patto () on Feb 16, 2008, 6:54 AM


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