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Re: [dovelette] I just don't get it - Trad rack questions:
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reno
Feb 23, 2008, 1:47 AM
Views: 19324
Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
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dovelette wrote: I want to build a starter trad rack. I am interested in the following:
OK, my answers are in italics.
-Aprox. 30 non locking biners - but how do I know which to pick? Wire gates? Bent? Straight? Does it matter?
Some of each. Ovals are nice when you wish to reverse/oppose a placement, wire gates are lighter, bent are easier to clip (probably NOT an issue for a new trad climber.) My trad rack has 75% BD Hotwire 'biners, a few ovals, two locking biners (BD Quicksilver) and no bent gates.
-Aprox. 10 sewn runners - but which ones, what length etc? What material?
Again, highly dependent on what you value. The thin, light Dyneema slings are, well, thin and light. They're also not quite as durable as a nylon sling, and reports of their effectiveness as prussic knots vary from "Yeah, they work" to "Nope, they suck." Length should vary as well: I have about eight 24" runners, four 36" runners, and one 48" runner.
-Slings - double and single length...but now I'm just spouting rhetoric and I don't even know the difference between the two, or what a sling vs. runner is since so many people use different terms for different things.
24" loop = single length. You can probably figure out how long a double length runner would be.
-Stoppers - oy. Yeah ok, a set of BD's, but why BD's over the ABC Huevo's? And what about the Metolis curved ones? And what about DMM Wallnuts? I mean which is the best, most cost effective combo??
-Cams - just clueless here. Yeah, just fork out the $$ for at least one of .5 thru 3 and double up on the 1' and 2's.
Stoppers and, to a greater degree, cams, are a matter of personal preference in my opinion. With the notable exception of CCH Alien cams, most major brands have a good reputation as quality devices that work. It becomes more a matter of "How does the cam feel in my hand?" Some folks prefer Metolius. Others like Wild Country. Many prefer BD. A few will swear by DMM, Trango, etc. The best advice I can give here is to find folks with different brands and try them out. See how you like each brand. Then buy what you like.
- Quadcams and tri cams - huh??
Quad cams will have 4 camming lobes. Tricams -- well, this can get confusing. Some folks are talking about Three-Cam Units (a.k.a. TCU), or cams with 3 lobes instead of 4. Usually, though, the term "Tricam" refers to THESE, which are a whole 'nother ball game.
- handful of locking biners - got that one, probably the only thing I understand so far.
Good. 
- cord-o-let - what is this?
Generally, a 21 foot length of 6-7mm perlon cord tied into a loop with a triple fisherman's knot. The use of it is far too complicated to go into here. Best you learn from someone with experience.
- a daisy chain- does it mater the specifics of what I get? Brands etc?
You don't need one. But, if you insist on carrying extra weight without any specific function, then no, it doesn't really matter.
- a set of hex's, slung (good on those too - ebay baby, and stick with the larger ones - check)
Good.
That, from what I have gathered, is what would make a nice, sweet, starter rack.
Yep. It'd also make a nice dent into your checking account. The only thing you're missing is someone to show you how it all works and how to use it safely.
(This post was edited by reno on Feb 23, 2008, 1:49 AM)
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Post edited by reno
() on Feb 23, 2008, 1:49 AM
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