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Re: [gbclimber] What are the Best Trad Shoes:
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caliclimbergrl
Feb 23, 2008, 7:44 PM
Views: 7360
Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 354
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My favorite trad shoes are La Sprotiva mythos -- they've always worked really well for me on cracks and although I've heard people say they're not as great for smearing, they've worked pretty well for me.
However, I've read a lot of recommendations and talked to a few guides and semi-pro climbers and most of them prefer to climb cracks with flat slippers like the Anasazi Moccasym. They usually get them in the same size as their street shoes for this purpose. They all say that the shoes that are made for trad are too stiff for their tastes. When I asked about pain, one guide told me that the moccasym just molds to the crack so well that it doesn't hurt your foot the way a stiff shoe does when you try to jam in the crack. I find it interesting that most pro or semi-pro climbers would never put their feet in the stiff shoes made for trad climbing and prefer slippers that I've always thought of as sport shoes -- but I've heard this from too awesome climbers to dismiss it.
I tryied the moccasym though and it didn't work for me. I have narrow feet -- even for a girl and I found that even if when I tried on smaller sizes that I might use for gym climbing or sport climbing, the width was still to big and my foot was sliding around. I'll still probably be on the lookout for a flat slipper that runs narrow or that has velcro, but my mythos have been working great for years, so for now, I'm going to stick to those.
(This post was edited by caliclimbergrl on Feb 23, 2008, 7:47 PM)
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