Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [petsfed] What are the Best Trad Shoes: Edit Log




sspssp


Feb 26, 2008, 7:43 PM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: [petsfed] What are the Best Trad Shoes
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petsfed wrote:
sspssp wrote:
I take issue that you can't get high performance in a shoe you can do the descent in.

For multi-pitch climbing, I wear a pair of Mythos that are sized comfortably. I've done some pretty long Yosemite descents with the Mythos. Not saying it is the best way to go, but its doable.

Its true though. A shoe that has a wide enough toe box and enough padding to allow good time on a grueling descent is not going to be that precise, sensitive or aggressive (if that's what you need). I would not dream of doing any of the scree-field descents that I've done, certainly not in the face of a coming storm, even in my Enduros. It would be shear suffering, and it'd slow me down.

Climbing and walking require different things from shoes and trying to compromise between the two means that both will suffer, in my opinion, more than is allowable.

Not to get into some kind of pissing match, but what were these long Yosemite descents like? I've never been to the Valley, so I don't know. What I do know is that if the descent is more than a mile or so, I'm bringing approach shoes. Blisters that prevent me from climbing the next day just aren't worth it.

The worst descent I've done in my Mythos is North Dome Gulley (after doing RA). It takes two or three hours if you know exactly where to go and much longer if you dont.

Long, loose, scree slopes are pretty ugly in any case and I wouldn't choose Mythos. NDG has some loose, treacherous spots, but no huge scree slopes.

With the Mythos, I can walk in them pretty good when they are unlaced, but lace them up tight and get a snug fit. The shoelace around the heel really helps to suck up the slack.

No worries about a pissing match and nothing is worth getting a blister and not being able to climb.Frown

I'm more inclined to carry descent shoes now then I used to be and I pay attention to weight. The retro 5-tennie is under a pound. I don't expect a long life, but I use it very selectively.

cheers


(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 26, 2008, 7:46 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Feb 26, 2008, 7:44 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Feb 26, 2008, 7:46 PM


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