Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [majid_sabet] saftey pins on biner's gate: Edit Log




chriss


Mar 16, 2008, 6:17 PM

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Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 92

Re: [majid_sabet] saftey pins on biner's gate
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majid_sabet wrote:
reg wrote:
madjid - this is good stuff - it's made me realize there exsists a fault in design of the bent gate biners. i won't use them any more. as someone else mentioned earlier it seems the oval biners may - because of their symetery - allow the pin to engage when under extreme loads. wadaya think?

Reg
The pin-hook engagement design on the oval biner apparently is the best and make it superior to all the other biner out there and this due to fact that during tensioning phase, the load ( B) is evenly divided along the both side ( A) of the biner .

However, the oval biner are weaker and have lower KN than r D shape biner cause the strongest part of the biner is along the axis line (C) but when oval biners are loaded , the forces are applied away from the axis line and more in center.

When D shape biners are loaded, majority of forces are applied in one side causing the lower part of the biner (D) to bend in an angle. Since the gate side of the biner is not fixed and has a gap (between pin and hook), the hook side (F) also move to an angle of its own causing the pin or the hook to not engage or even if they engage, they would pop out.


This problem becomes even worse when the applied tension on a “D” shape biner moves away from the axis line and stay in the middle on the biner or closer to the gate side.


[[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/1660/omisoovalvt6.jpg[/IMG]

I shouldn't respond to this nonsense. But others (who have said I'm clueless) have, so...

http://img148.imageshack.us/...660/omisoovalvt6.jpg
There is a false assumption in the diagram above. "the hook side (F) also move to an angle of its own" This F arrow should be pointing the opposite way.
Look at the videos and the FEA model in the links offered. The "sides" of the biner actually move closer as the biner is elongated by the load.
The pin/notch interaction is actually somewhat improved up until the point of failure elsewhere.


chris


(This post was edited by chriss on Mar 16, 2008, 6:33 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by chriss () on Mar 16, 2008, 6:33 PM


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