onceahardman
May 5, 2008, 3:14 PM
Views: 7232
Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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Lots of 5.8 in the dacks, not much grade IV.
There is a tremendous, and very comprehensive, new guidebook:
http://adirondackrock.com
To me, "quintessential" in the 'dacks means multi pitch, so avoid the popular beer walls, although they are very convenient.
Keene Valley:
Washbowl cliff: Partition 5.8, Hesitation, also 5.8. Do the "butterflies are free" handcrack start to partition 8+/9, but very well protected. Also, the old "weissner route" is a mega classic at 5.5. Hesitation would be an excellent choice for a "quintessential" dacks route.
Tillman's Arete, 5.7, sparsely bolted, popular with guides, easy access. Dries quickly after a rain.
Mr Roger's neighborhood 5.8, easiest route at the Spider's web.
Empress 800' 5.5 slab, runouts to 120', but pretty secure climbing, no sandbag from me.
Keene:
Quadrophenia 5.8, Hurricane crag EDIT: 20 min. approach, pretty well off the road, 4 distinct and varied pitches, a good choice for "quintessential"
Pete's farewell 5.7 Pitchoff chimey cliff
The El, 5.8, pitchoff chimney cliff.
Pok-o: Best cliff in the dacks, similar in size and scope to cathedral ledge in NH:
Gamesmanship:4-5 pitches, 5.8
Many many more routes here, most harder, I'll stay within your desired 5.8.
Good Luck!, please do a trip report! Oh, yeah, mid May? bring good quality insect repellent, and maybe a headnet for belays! The blackflies are famous.
(This post was edited by onceahardman on May 5, 2008, 3:23 PM)
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