gothcopter
Oct 15, 2008, 8:49 PM
Views: 21606
Registered: Apr 20, 2004
Posts: 145
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knieveltech wrote: Right there with you. I think it's going to take a diagram for me to get my head wrapped around the system they where using.
Ok, here goes...
So, imagine a scenario where climber B has just finished belaying climber A on the lead of an overhanging climb. Climbers B and C both want to toprope the climb, but it is only safe to toprope with the rope redirected through the draws.
Climber B takes the rope out of her belay device, ties an alpine butterfly right there on the rope and clips it to her harness with locking carabiners. Climber C goes on belay on the leader's end of the rope.
Climber B ascends, unclipping the rope above her from the draws and clipping the trailing rope into the draws beneath her. When she gets to the anchor, she goes on direct, unclips belay rope from the anchor, and clips the rope trailing through the draws into the anchor.
At this point, climber C should switch to belaying on the rope trailed by climber B, and then lower climber B to the ground.
Climber C can then tie into the end of the rope, and be belayed up by climber B.
The problem came during step 4 -- climber C never switched to belaying on the other rope.
There is a way to accomplish this same task without going off belay. All climber B needs to do is take a couple of extra draws or carabiners to the top of the route with her. Then instead of going on direct, she can simply connect the trailing rope to the toprope anchor alongside her belay rope. She can then be lowered, and the trailing line will come down with her. Once on the ground, she can pull her former belay line through the anchors to get it out of the way if desired.
(This post was edited by gothcopter on Oct 15, 2008, 8:51 PM)
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