Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: EDDY as a solo belay and its camming action DANGERS (?): Edit Log




Dorian


Nov 13, 2008, 1:54 AM

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Registered: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 5

Re: EDDY as a solo belay and its camming action DANGERS (?)
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Anybody can write whatever he/she thinks. If you believe that you understand what you are doing with the EDDY, that is your problem !!! Good luck Cool

I started this post simply to warn everybody that the locking function of the EDDY in a fall while rope soloing is doubtful. No wise man wants to depend on factors such as angle of rope and angle of body plus direction of fall, rope diameter and condition, whether the rope is wet or dry etc for the belay device to engage in a fall. Do not let anybody convince you it is safe - DO YOUR OWN TESTS INSTEAD.

Any fall soon leads to SPEED. However, the EDDY engages by FRICTION. From high-school physics you may remember that friction depends very weakly on speed. Meditate on this and you have the answer, or at least MY ANSWER. The EDDY will not always engage - it is not designed for this kind of use. It is like riding a bicycle sitting on the handlebars: doable but only for the circus.



(This post was edited by Dorian on Nov 13, 2008, 2:21 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Dorian () on Nov 13, 2008, 2:11 AM
Post edited by Dorian () on Nov 13, 2008, 2:19 AM
Post edited by Dorian () on Nov 13, 2008, 2:21 AM


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