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Re: [jt512] Correcting belay errors - Part 1:
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gimmeslack
May 20, 2009, 7:18 PM
Views: 5182
Registered: Sep 24, 2006
Posts: 136
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jt512 wrote: ..... Putting a knot in the end of the rope is protection against being dropped when you are being lowered. If you will be belaying from the top of the pitch, then your partner should tie in before you leave the ground, so, as dalguard says you don't pull the rope up out of their reach. -Jay
After not doing much climbing in the past year, I was at local crag recently with my wife, where she belayed me up a single pitch route. Once I'd built a belay, I started casually taking up slack (prolly only a 100' pitch). About the time I'd started wondering why there was some much rope still coming up, I saw the sharp end pop into view just below me. "honey?, did you not tie in?"
She had turned her back and sat down to tie her shoes. Doh!!
Two lessons learned that day:
1) always go ahead and tie in
2) talk to your partner, don't assume unless you HAVE to.
It was no big deal, but would have sucked on a multipitch or somewhere that wasn't a walk-down to base of crag. 
(This post was edited by gimmeslack on May 20, 2009, 7:19 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by gimmeslack
() on May 20, 2009, 7:19 PM
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