Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [cracklover] Two piece anchors are plenty strong! Poll!: Edit Log




majid_sabet


May 27, 2009, 4:13 PM

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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [cracklover] Two piece anchors are plenty strong! Poll!
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cracklover wrote:
Jmeizis, you can add one more factor into your little hypothetical equation that will radically improve its usefulness, without requiring a supercomputer to calculate the probabilities:

Equalization

Let's say you are capable of creating an anchor that equalizes somewhat (distributes would be a better term than equalizes).

The point of the anchor is to be capable of holding the worst possible fall - a FF2, which can easily generate forces up to 18kN on the anchor.

Now let's look at your pieces again, and say that you estimate that each placement is 90% likely to fail at 18kN, 20% likely to fail at ~10kN, 10% likely to fail at ~7kN, and 2% likely to fail at ~5kN.

A single piece anchor gives you around:
90% chance of failure.

Two pieces, equalizing at 40/60 give you around:
20% x 10% = 2% chance of failure.

Three pieces, equalizing at 30/30/40 gives you around:
2% x 2% x 10% = 0.004% (four in 100,000)

Add a fourth piece, equalizing at 25/25/30/20, and you might see something like:
2% x 2% x 2% x 1.5% = .00001%

So three looks like the magic number to me.

GO

lets use an avarage number of 12 KN since most trad gear are rated between 5-16 kn

and this new post should put an end this two piece whatever

http://www.columbian.com/...orge+blamed+on+error


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 27, 2009, 4:47 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on May 27, 2009, 4:47 PM


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